Hi ! I am gonna put an on/off switch on my cart for the voltage reducer and am wondering what amp of switch I need to get and do I need an inline fuse. The reducer is 30-60 volts in and 12 volts at 10 amps out. Just gonna be running two headlights. What guage of wire needs to be used in this application ? The cart is a 2004 CC 48 volt. Thanks ! Tony USMC 1987-1991
What amp switch for reducer ?
- Thread starter usmcvet87
- Start date
StreetGlide
New Member
Hello,
First, I guess I am surprised that you don't already have a reducer. Is your cart an IQ? If not and you don't already have one, is the one you are installing a series reducer (2 or 3 wire) or a parallel "converter" (aka "reducer") with 4 wire?
If it is a 2 or 3 wire, it is connected in series and just adds a resistor that will drop the voltage to approx 12Vdc for the lights. I have not seen a series "reducer" that will work over such an input range. A series reducer would normally work be either 16Vdc to 12Vdc or from 36Vdc to 12 Vdc. The size ON/OFF switch anywhere in the series circuit would need to be 15Amp (150% of expected current). I would use (for the 36Vdc to 12Vdc or the 16Vdc to 12Vdc reducer) a standard single pole, single throw 110Vac - 15Amp toggle switch.
HOWEVER, if you are installing 48Vdc to 12Vdc "converter", it is a 4 wire parallel device. The input leads will connect to 48Vdc. Red to the positive terminal of battery #1 and the black to the negative terminal of battery # 6. The output leads will parallel connect to your light circuit. Positive to one "side" of the lights and negative to the other. (NOTE: A reminder,,,, NEVER connect any battery leads to the frame of the golf cart! NO, "common frame" ground as used in automobiles! Always run a positive and a negative wire to each accessory!) For a 48Vdc to 12Vdc-10Amp "converter" the input current at 48Vdc is a little less than 3Amps. I would probably use 14g wire on all, probably get away with no trouble using 16. You would want a SPST toggle switch rated for at least 50Vdc at 5Adc. You may need to go to a Graybar type store or search internet for Military surplus. For my 48Vdc to 12Vdc - 25A "converter", I found a 50Vdc-10Adc combination breaker and SPST toggle switch. "POTTER&BRUMF W31X2M1G10, Circuit Breaker - Toggle Actuated - 10 Amp" on Downwind Marine site www.downwindmarine.com/Breakers-Panels-p-2-c-176.html. I am sure if I had not been in such a hurry to get it I could have saved $ surplus or some electrical supply house. I placed the "breaker/toggle switch" between the positive terminal of battery # 1 and the positive input of the "converter". I leave it in the "ON" position using it as a breaker except if I am moving battery, doing maintenance or if being stored for a week or more (because my radio will lose memory if I don't).
Hope this helped. Good luck and please let us all know "what, which, how, where". (we like photos as well)
Thanks for serving!
First, I guess I am surprised that you don't already have a reducer. Is your cart an IQ? If not and you don't already have one, is the one you are installing a series reducer (2 or 3 wire) or a parallel "converter" (aka "reducer") with 4 wire?
If it is a 2 or 3 wire, it is connected in series and just adds a resistor that will drop the voltage to approx 12Vdc for the lights. I have not seen a series "reducer" that will work over such an input range. A series reducer would normally work be either 16Vdc to 12Vdc or from 36Vdc to 12 Vdc. The size ON/OFF switch anywhere in the series circuit would need to be 15Amp (150% of expected current). I would use (for the 36Vdc to 12Vdc or the 16Vdc to 12Vdc reducer) a standard single pole, single throw 110Vac - 15Amp toggle switch.
HOWEVER, if you are installing 48Vdc to 12Vdc "converter", it is a 4 wire parallel device. The input leads will connect to 48Vdc. Red to the positive terminal of battery #1 and the black to the negative terminal of battery # 6. The output leads will parallel connect to your light circuit. Positive to one "side" of the lights and negative to the other. (NOTE: A reminder,,,, NEVER connect any battery leads to the frame of the golf cart! NO, "common frame" ground as used in automobiles! Always run a positive and a negative wire to each accessory!) For a 48Vdc to 12Vdc-10Amp "converter" the input current at 48Vdc is a little less than 3Amps. I would probably use 14g wire on all, probably get away with no trouble using 16. You would want a SPST toggle switch rated for at least 50Vdc at 5Adc. You may need to go to a Graybar type store or search internet for Military surplus. For my 48Vdc to 12Vdc - 25A "converter", I found a 50Vdc-10Adc combination breaker and SPST toggle switch. "POTTER&BRUMF W31X2M1G10, Circuit Breaker - Toggle Actuated - 10 Amp" on Downwind Marine site www.downwindmarine.com/Breakers-Panels-p-2-c-176.html. I am sure if I had not been in such a hurry to get it I could have saved $ surplus or some electrical supply house. I placed the "breaker/toggle switch" between the positive terminal of battery # 1 and the positive input of the "converter". I leave it in the "ON" position using it as a breaker except if I am moving battery, doing maintenance or if being stored for a week or more (because my radio will lose memory if I don't).
Hope this helped. Good luck and please let us all know "what, which, how, where". (we like photos as well)
Thanks for serving!
Thanks for the reply !! My carts model/serial # is AA0130-040506,what would be the name of it, IQ,Villager,etc; ? I will have to find me a switch you were explaining. My reducer is a 4 wire, pos to battery,neg. to battery and then your pos. and neg. output wires for lights. Thanks again for the replies !!! Would serve again in a heartbeat if asked to do so, the time I spent in the Marines were the best times I have ever had, some of those times are best forgotten,but the good times last a lifetime. I just found the switch you were talking about, the combination switch and circuit breaker ($32.65)its is the 50Vdc at 10A. Would it be ok to use the 5 amp one or should I just get the 10A one ? One more small thing ,could I wire the lights to this switch and have just one switch to power the reducer and lights at the same time ? Sorry for asking so many questions, but the kids are wanting lights on the cart and I wanted to do the job correctly.
StreetGlide
New Member
Hello,
The AA0130-040506 serial # indicates your cart is a Electric-non-IQ (AA) and it's a 2001(01).
No reason you could not use 50Vdc-5A in the input lead to the reducer with either. That would be my recommendation for a 48Vdc to 12Vdc - 10A "converter/reducer".
If you are going to use just that one switch and you want the switch up on the dash you would be running 48V up there or you could use a relay. If you use a standard light switch on the output you would only be running 12v up front. I have the 25A version "converter" with the input switch under the seat and use a standard 12V headlight switch on the dash. I would rather keep the "high" voltage back under the seat. You could mount the 48V-5 amp switch/breaker from the rear with the toggle lever (with rubber boot) coming through the kick panel next to or under the FWD/REV switch and use it and not have to install a light switch on the dash. Several possibilities.
"L&S"
SEABEES, 1968 through 1970
The AA0130-040506 serial # indicates your cart is a Electric-non-IQ (AA) and it's a 2001(01).
No reason you could not use 50Vdc-5A in the input lead to the reducer with either. That would be my recommendation for a 48Vdc to 12Vdc - 10A "converter/reducer".
If you are going to use just that one switch and you want the switch up on the dash you would be running 48V up there or you could use a relay. If you use a standard light switch on the output you would only be running 12v up front. I have the 25A version "converter" with the input switch under the seat and use a standard 12V headlight switch on the dash. I would rather keep the "high" voltage back under the seat. You could mount the 48V-5 amp switch/breaker from the rear with the toggle lever (with rubber boot) coming through the kick panel next to or under the FWD/REV switch and use it and not have to install a light switch on the dash. Several possibilities.
"L&S"
SEABEES, 1968 through 1970
Is this right, POS. from battery #1 to the 50 Vdc switch and POS. from reducer input on one post of the switch, NEG. from last battery in series and NEG. from reducer input to the other post on the 50Vdc switch. Then just wire the lights to the reducer output wires ? How many amp inline fuse will I need for the lights and reducer ? Thank you soooo much for helping me !!!!
StreetGlide
New Member
Hello,
Hope this helps.
Let me try again on the "hook-up".
Converter/Reducer Input
Run a red wire from the positive post of battery #1 to one side of the 50Vdc-5A switch.
Run a red wire from the other side of the switch to one end of a inline 50Vdc-5A fuse (optional if you use the combination "switch/breaker" mentioned before).
Run a red wire from the other end of the fuse to the positive (+)input terminal on the converter/reducer.
Run a black wire from the negative post of last battery in the string to the negative (-) input of the converter/reducer.
Converter/Reducer Output
Run a red or red/other color wire from the positive (+) 12Vdc output of the converter/reducer to a push-pull SPST 12Vdc-10A switch (or toggle switch).
Run a red or red/other from the other side of the push-pull SPST 12Vdc-10A switch (or toggle switch) to one side of each 12Vdc light.
Run a black/other wire from the other side of each 12Vdc light to the negative (-) output terminal of the converter/reducer.
Note, the total wattage of the 2 headlights must be less than 120 watts (12Vdc @ 10 Amps). So each headlight (assuming you are using 2) must be less than 60 watts each (12Vdc @ 5Amps).
Above based on single beam lights. Dual beam (hi/low) will require different light switch and wiring. (If you are considering dual beams, I suggest you purchase a headlight kit and just use the "converter/reducer" as it's power source and connect as kit instructions indicate. Kits usually come with switch, wiring harness and lights)
Remember, no ground connections to golf cart chassis.
Hope this helps.
Let me try again on the "hook-up".
Converter/Reducer Input
Run a red wire from the positive post of battery #1 to one side of the 50Vdc-5A switch.
Run a red wire from the other side of the switch to one end of a inline 50Vdc-5A fuse (optional if you use the combination "switch/breaker" mentioned before).
Run a red wire from the other end of the fuse to the positive (+)input terminal on the converter/reducer.
Run a black wire from the negative post of last battery in the string to the negative (-) input of the converter/reducer.
Converter/Reducer Output
Run a red or red/other color wire from the positive (+) 12Vdc output of the converter/reducer to a push-pull SPST 12Vdc-10A switch (or toggle switch).
Run a red or red/other from the other side of the push-pull SPST 12Vdc-10A switch (or toggle switch) to one side of each 12Vdc light.
Run a black/other wire from the other side of each 12Vdc light to the negative (-) output terminal of the converter/reducer.
Note, the total wattage of the 2 headlights must be less than 120 watts (12Vdc @ 10 Amps). So each headlight (assuming you are using 2) must be less than 60 watts each (12Vdc @ 5Amps).
Above based on single beam lights. Dual beam (hi/low) will require different light switch and wiring. (If you are considering dual beams, I suggest you purchase a headlight kit and just use the "converter/reducer" as it's power source and connect as kit instructions indicate. Kits usually come with switch, wiring harness and lights)
Remember, no ground connections to golf cart chassis.
Thanks for helping me with this. I wired it up like you said and it works like a champ. I mounted the breaker by the F-N-R lever and it is handy, flip the switch/breaker and lights and reducer come on. Kids have lights now and all is good. Thanks again !!!! I used wire loom on the wires and the install looks good, wife says I am too meticulous with stuff, I told her it's that Marine Corps pride that still shows 20 years later, you being a vet know what I am talking about. Tony USMC 1987-1991
StreetGlide
New Member
Glad it worked-out for you and the kids!
Working with 48Vdc wiring and lead acid batteries, being "meticulous" is a good thing!
Stick around.
We all love to see pics!
Working with 48Vdc wiring and lead acid batteries, being "meticulous" is a good thing!
Stick around.
We all love to see pics!
StreetGlide
New Member
TNX Gorno.
TNX to you for all your help the last 9 mos!
TNX to you for all your help the last 9 mos!