Yamaha Golf Cart Ran and Died No Spark

Well I read thad some people wired around it or squeezed it waith vise grips until the engine turned over.
 
well the squeezin' deal is... :dazed: i guess a fella can make stuff work with a hammer to but it is what it is.
theres ways around most ignitors but i never did it on a yammy, sometimes a guy has to just spend the money and buy a new one or take your changes on a used one.
 
Is it possible to replace the cdi box with a cdi box of some other vehicle, for example a Yamaha 1985 YZ80 CDI Box Coil Ignitor? Basicly does it have to be the exact same kind of cdi box or any kind?
 
You are killing me with this! The pulse coil is polarized based on engine rotation.

The cdi box is not and you need to know the wire diagram. The color codes for the wires mostly were the same in the 80`s for Yamaha golf carts.
I have used 440 ignition components on the 215cc g1 and vice versa. CDI boxes rarely fail. I have changed 4 in my lifetime and 3 were ruined by people. I am pretty sure you have another problem like 99% sure! Find one to swap to check yours before you buy one. You can`t hurt anything if you try yours in another golf cart.
 
If the box is triggering it is good. Nothing in means nothing out. low v in will give you low v out. The box is just a trigger to the secondary coil. (like points) If the box triggers then the source coil has a wire issue. Primary source voltage is over 20 volts. (now you know why these don`t foul plugs) You should be getting that out of the orange wire coming out of the cdi box. (goes to coil) The brown wire going to the cdi box is the source coil 20v feed in. Also the brown wire at the engine. (check all of these at the engine) common failure here! The source coil is the primary voltage feed to the box and the pulse coil is the trigger. How are you measuring v out? It will burn out a test light (use 24v only) or a resister inline. Most of the problems with this ignition are: wires at the engine flywheel (all may be worn through from being strapped to the frame when new). wires green/white and red/white (pulse coil) at engine and corner of battery box (rubbing and splices here).

The key switch grounds either the green or red wire from pulse coil pending crankshaft rotation. The cdi box only recognizes one certain polarity input to trigger mosfet. The pulse coil wires go from the engine to a 3-way splice at the battery box corner up to the key switch and the other way to the cdi box.

Anytime you troubleshoot the ignition system you must unplug the black wire with the white stripe on it at the cdi box. This is the gas pedal kill switch. It grounds the cdi box. You can ohm the pulse coil and the source coil at the engine Pulse coil is around 14 ohms to 22 ohms source coil is around 90 ohms or so to about 120 ohms. They won`t be shorted. they are normally open if they are bad. If you see any melted wires they are burned from the ground wires shorted in the harness from headlights grounded to the frame bypassing the 10 amp ground fuse.
 
I would do some testing on ignition coil and the trigger or pick up coil before just replacing a CDI . never mind!!
 
After talking with a group of friends and reletives/ experts they say that the pulser coil, inside the engine, has come lose or broke and that is why I can crank the middle pulley ( the one with two belts on it) but it won't catch.
 
Has anyone checked to see if the ground cable from battery to engine is good? This engine is on rubber mounts and if there is not a good ground between engine and battery neg. no spark or maybe 1 spark when you let up on gas pedal.
 
There doesn't appear to be any ground wire. There are only three wires attached to the negative side, one to the solenoid, to the ignition coil and to the light switch.
 
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