Well, I bit the bullet and changed out the controller and my 2000 Carryall 48V still won't go. What else can this be? I don't want to keep throwing $$ at it like this since this can get very expensive. Already checked were:
Solenoid
Batts & all their connections
Connections to f/r switch
New controller
Parts that I suspect-key switch, wiper switch, 48V motor, little resistor that goes on top of the solenoid (would that really cripple the cart?)
Throw some more ideas at me guys, please!
UPDATE
Update on this problem...seems like the jumpers I had on the cart were loose, so the motor is indeed good. It spun slowly when I put 12V to it. Well, I have a nice new expensive controller, a fully charged healthy 48V pack of batteries, a known-good motor-I am going nuts with this! How about if I jump the solenoid? Would that harm anything? I'm talking about the 2 large lugs on it. Would that prove anything? Like I stated before, the resister diode on the solenoid got very hot and may have cooked-is this relative? Counting down until I start parting this cart out! (I mean it!!)
Doc
Solenoid
Batts & all their connections
Connections to f/r switch
New controller
Parts that I suspect-key switch, wiper switch, 48V motor, little resistor that goes on top of the solenoid (would that really cripple the cart?)
Throw some more ideas at me guys, please!
UPDATE
Update on this problem...seems like the jumpers I had on the cart were loose, so the motor is indeed good. It spun slowly when I put 12V to it. Well, I have a nice new expensive controller, a fully charged healthy 48V pack of batteries, a known-good motor-I am going nuts with this! How about if I jump the solenoid? Would that harm anything? I'm talking about the 2 large lugs on it. Would that prove anything? Like I stated before, the resister diode on the solenoid got very hot and may have cooked-is this relative? Counting down until I start parting this cart out! (I mean it!!)
Doc
