Understanding battery stuff

silverstreak

New Member
Hi all,
I'm new here.
We recently (6 months ago) bought a used 2006 TXT lifted, 4 seater EZ-GO electric cart.
It worked great for the Fall months. The "new" tires ended up have massive leaks due to dry rot, and I blamed the power problems this Spring on the tires. But now that we have new tires, and the power problem is getting worse, I realize we have a battery issue too.
Few Questions: On the state-of-charge dial, there is a red area at the far right. Is this where the needle should be when charging, or is it an area that means "danger"??
Sorry for my ignorance. Haven't been able to find a manual.
Might these 2006 battery cables need replaced?

I cleaned the posts and clamps the other day, hoping that would help, but it didn't. I do keep distilled water at the right levels in the cells.
The charger appears to be working properly (I guess). It starts out at around 18 amps and slowly goes down as it charges.

Since the batteries are 5 years old, and I'm not sure they were taken care of during that time, should I assume I just need new batteries?

I want to trouble-shoot this accurately, rather than just start replacing expensive things.
Please help me figure out what my process should be.

In the Fall, after a charge, it was great for a reasonable period of time. But this spring, even after a long charge, the needle on the charge indicator falls low, even with a little load.
Thanks for your help!
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Welcome to the forum...

From what you describe it sounds like it may be a battery problem. Give the batteries a complete charge and let the cart sit a couple hours then test each battery with a digital volt meter. Then drive the cart until you notice it slowing down and check the batteries again with your digital volt meter. Post the results and we can let you know what shape the batteries are in.
 

silverstreak

New Member
Thanks Hotrodcarts!
I appreciate the help.
Can you easily tell me how to test the batteries? Do I just touch the wires on the battery cables coming out of each battery with the voltmeter?
(Again, sorry for my ignorance). I really want to learn how to take good care of this cart myself.
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Yes just put the + - leads of your meter on each batteries positive and negative posts. No need to unhook any cables.
 

silverstreak

New Member
Thanks HotRodCarts..........Its charging right now, so I'll test it later. I'll let you know the results. Thanks again!
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
No problem, your welcome.
cool.gif
 

silverstreak

New Member
Well dang........I thought DH had a voltmeter, but he doesn't, so I'll have to go buy one tomorrow.
I'll have to charge the cart again first, though, before I test it. We're supposed to have a horrible storm tomorrow, so I probably won't get it done for a couple days. But I'll get back to you eventually.
Oh....about that red area on the right end of the state-of-the-charge dial. Is it okay that the needle stays in that area when its charging? When I see red, I guess I'm programmed to think something's wrong!
tongue.gif
Sure wish I had an owner's manual. That might answer some of my simple questions.

Do you think a new set of battery cables might extend the life of the batteries a little, or is that just wasting money, if the voltmeter says low?
Thanks again.
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
If the batteries test bad the cables won't make any difference. On the other hand if you wind up buying new batteries it would a good idea to replace the cables to. You might even think about upgrading to 4 gauge on ALL the cables.
 

silverstreak

New Member
Thanks HotRodCart,

Should we also replace all the wires that go from the batteries to other places? .......or do you mean just the one's connecting the batteries to each other?
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
That all depends on what your plans are for the cart and what condition all the cables are in. If you plan on doing any upgrades like a lift, motor, controller, etc. your best bet is to change every 6 gauge cable to 4 gauge. If you plan on keeping the cart stock then the cables aren't really a issue unless they're in bad shape.
 

silverstreak

New Member
I guess I should say a little about the cart. We bought it used in the Fall (2010). It's a 2006 TXT that has been lifted 6" and has a fold-down back seat. It has 22" tires. I just use it to get around our big property, since my knees aren't so good. I don't drive it hard at all.

Do you think 2 intelligent, but not real mechanically-knowledgeable people could change most of the wires ourselves? If I do need new batteries, it would make sense to change most of the wiring out too.

I'm realizing that the outside of the cart looked like new, but I think its going to need some organ transplants fairly soon.
yikes2.gif
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Seeing how the cart is lifted with 22" tires I would change all the cables to 4 gauge then. You can buy pre-made cables so it's not hard at all to change them. Is your cart a PDS or series system (PDS will have forward/reverse switch on the dash). If it's a PDS make sure you flip the run tow switch on the controller cover to the tow position before doing any work on the cart.
 

silverstreak

New Member
Hmmmm.....wish I could understand what you just said.
tongue.gif


In reading this forum, I've wondered what "PDS" stood for. Mine has a lever on the front of the seat, between the driver and the passenger seat. Is there anything on that model that I would need to disconnect? And also......when I cleaned the battery posts the other day, should I have disconnected anything first? I lived, so it must have been okay to not disconnect anything.........or I was just danged lucky.
thanks for being patient with my very basic questions.
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
If your F/R switch is down by your leg you have a series cart so you don't have a run tow switch. If you look at the back of the charger receptacle under the seat you'll see 3 wires coming out of it. You should unplug the connector on the small wire which is for the reed switch when working with the electrical system on the cart. When finished plug the connector back in. Other than that just be careful not to short out any wrenchs to any metal on the cart and you'll be fine.

Don't worry about asking a lot of questions. That's what we're here for...
thumbup.gif
 

silverstreak

New Member
Thanks!

What is a reed switch?

I would love to have the manual for this model. I've printed off some of the wiring diagrams on this site, but I would just like to know what things are where.
About shorting out a wrench on metal.......do you mean touching the end of the wrench on anything metal, while the other end is touching one of the posts? Would this still be a problem after I disconnect that wire you mentioned?
Do you think its good to work with rubber handled tools, or not necessary?

Yes, that's where my F/R switch is. In cold weather, that thing is really hard to turn. Would I just need to grease it behind the seat to make it easier?

Continuing thanks!
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
The reed switch is a safety that keeps the cart from running when the charger is plugged into the cart. A small arc can blow the switch and the cart will be dead until you replace the reed switch or bypass it. If you unplug it before working on anything electrical on the cart it will prevent blowing it if you do happen to cause a arc.

There's a link to the EZGO Service Manual you can download in the EZGO resource forum.
 

silverstreak

New Member
Okay. Here we go.
I got a cheap "Multimeter" at Walmart, since it was the closest place to my house. It says it can "test car charging systems, battery conditions", etc. I asked the guy in the Automotive area at Walmart exactly how to use it, and he said "I don't think its for outside stuff, just inside the house." I said "But the package says automotive use, battery testing." He said "No.......I don't think we have anything that can do that."
DUH!!
So I went to Advance Auto and it took them awhile to figure out how to use it too.

So..........This thing, of course, has a black probe and a red probe. But there are 3 possible ports to plug them in.
I'm thinking I need to set the dial to "DCV" and probably point it to "20".??
Should I plug the red probe into the site that says "DC 10A" or the one that says "V omega symbol mA BAT."? There's only one site that has a black ring around it, so I suppose I should plug the black probe in there.
The instructions aren't helpful.
dazed053.gif

I hope you all aren't laughing too hard!
rotflmao.gif

Thanks for your help! We'll get this figured out yet!
 

silverstreak

New Member
I read up on testing the batteries with this multimeter and I went out to test it, and on the first battery, I got sparks when I added the second probe. I don't think that's right, so I'll wait to hear from ya'll. My settings were at the "DCV 20" spot. What's with the sparks??
 

silverstreak

New Member
Sorry to be a pest.
I decided to go ahead and call the guy who sold this to me. He owns a little golf cart shop in a nearby town. He offered for me to borrow his load tester. I think what I was using is just too small. We talked awhile, and he wondered if I hadn't driven too long on low tire pressure and maybe things got too hot, and ruined a battery or 2.
I don't think I mentioned this, but I discovered my tire pressure was VERY low this spring. Its kind of stupid, but I thought I needed a special tire pressure gauge because nothing was registering on 2 different gauges I had. The tires looked totally inflated and didn't even yield to my leaning on them.........but it turns out they didn't have enough air in them to even register on the gauges!
wallbash.gif


Live and Learn. So tomorrow, I'll pick up his lead tester and see what's going on.
 
Top