Testing a EZGO Golf Cart Forward and Reverse Switch?

[CAMPBEC3]

I was trying to find out how to go about testing a forward and reverse switch on a 94 EZGO Medalist golf cart but no luck. Can someone point me in the right direction or tell me how to test the forward and reverse switch?

 

[dirtysouth]

Welcome to the forum.
One of the EZGO buffs will be along soon to help you out with testing the forward and reverse switch on your golf cart.

 

[HotRodCarts]

I always take them apart and check the contacts. You can usually tell by looking while the switch is still in the cart if the board has been hot. You can test the micro switches with a ohm meter.

 

[CAMPBEC3]

I did check the micro switches and they are working. I just wanted to check the forward and reverse switch due to the golf cart wont move in either direction. The solenoid clicks but no go. I'll see if it looks burnt. Thanks.

 

[shadowman]

Keep in mind a clicking soleniod doesn't mean its a good solenoid.

 

[CAMPBEC3]

I took the forward and reverse switch apart and no burnt spots our excessive wear. Cleaned it and checked micro switches all are working so i still dont know what is wrong.
New batteries.
New 4ga welding cables.
New controller.
Did ohm check on motor and it showed good.
Checked connections for clean and tightness.
Did check on solenoid and it showed good.
Any ideas on whats wrong this is embarrassing I fix prius all day long and this golf cart is killing me.

 

[HotRodCarts]

What exactly is the problem with the cart? Does it move at all in forward or reverse? Does the solenoid click?

 

[CAMPBEC3]

The solenoid clicks but the golf cart wont move at all. The person I bought it from said it stopped working and he parked it for two years. I bought it and put new batteries, cables, and had the controller rebuilt by Nu Source because I thought that was the problem. I put new batterys and cables in it but it didnt work just clicked in forward and reverse thats why i sent the controller out. When i got it back I put it in and the same problem. Thanks for the help.

 

[HotRodCarts]

Jack the back of the cart up. Then jump the 2 large posts on the solenoid with a 6 gauge or larger jumper cable and see if it runs. If it does the solenoid is bad. If it still doesn't run you can test the motor with 12 volts to make sure it's good. If the motor is good and the cart is wired right I'd lean toward the controller being the problem.

Here's a way to test a series motor with 12 volts.

SERIES wound motor test:

Jack the rear tires of the ground and put the cart on jack stands...
Remove the main positive and negative cables form the battery pack...
Spray the 4 studs on the motor with a little penetrating oil...
Mark the cables then remove all four cables from the motor (use a wrench to hold the jam nuts)...
Put a jumper wire from a "A" terminal to an "S" terminal. (Example: A1 to S1)...
Then hook a 12 volt battery or 12 volt battery charger in the 15+ amp range to the remaining "A" and "S" terminal (Example A2 and S2)...

If the motor spins it's good...

 

[CAMPBEC3]

Thanks for the information. I'll try it when i get home tonight and let you know the out come.

 

[HotRodCarts]

No problem. Let us know what you find...

 

[CAMPBEC3]

The motor works using that procedure, by the way nice way to test the motor. It's nice to see it move for confermation of operation. How do you test the induction throttle switch?

 

[HotRodCarts]

Like I mentioned before if the motor is good and the golf cart is wired correctly I'd check the Inductive Throttle Sensor (ITS) and the rebuilt controller.

 

[CAMPBEC3]

Thanks is this a common problem and have you ever seen a throttle switch go bad?

 

[HotRodCarts]

Yes it is possible for the ITS to be bad.

Here's a test procedure for the ITS:

To test the ITS jack the rear of the cart up and put it on jack stands. Remove the small black wire from the ITS at the controller. With the key on and the cart in either forward or reverse put the ground of your meter on the battery pack negative, slowly push the accelerator and on the small black wire at controller you should have 13-15 volts at activation, on small white wire you should have .5 volts at activation to 1.5 volts at full throttle. Test the black wire with it plugged in and unplugged.

 

[CAMPBEC3]

Thanks, I'll check the ITS then I'll probably condem the controller man. This is getting costly.

 

[CAMPBEC3]

I finally found the problem. It was the connector from the ITS to the controller loose pin fit. I got a water proof connector from a old toyota wiring harness and soldered and shrink wrapped the wires and all is good now. All I have to do is clean up the wiring so it looks good and doesn't rub any where and take it to the river.
Thanks for all your help HRC, you pointed me in the right direction and saved me MONEY now my kids will have there own golf cart and leave mine alone.
One more question. It's very hot where the golf cart is going to be. Can I leave the charger hooked up for long periods of time 2 to 3 weeks with no use?

 

[HotRodCarts]

Glad you found the problem and thanks for the follow up.

 

[CAMPBEC3]

One more question its pretty hot where the cart is used can i leave it plugged in all the time when not in use some times it sits foe 2 to 3 weeks not being used

 

[HotRodCarts]

It's not a good idea to leave the battery charger plugged into the cart. The older EZGO battery chargers won't cycle on and off unless it's unplugged from the cart. Your best bet is to charge the cart and unplug the charger if the the carts is going to be sitting for 2-3 weeks at a time.