Still Having Problems With My EZGO That Stops Running

skindaddy

Member
i assure you as we were doing circles as we go there is no voltage across the lrg. that is why i thought hey why not test the small to see if any reading, then back to large nothing. i really am not good at tracing electrical , but i can read an electric tester ;) . by the cables you mean cause there not crimped? if thats the case i have a large crimper at work. and they are #4 welding cable now just not out of a package/factory
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
The lugs on the cables don't look like they're put on the cables very good and can cause problems if their not.

I really don't know what to tell you about the large posts on the solenoid not having power and the golf cart actually runs like that. The only way I know of that the cart could possibly run with no power to the large solenoid posts would be if someone somehow bypassed the solenoid.
 

skindaddy

Member
they are soldered on, thought it was a good idea at time,
was wondering if i had sometihng wired wrong and just got by all these yrs, i see if i can come up with something tonight.
i think i still have a diargram i printed from this site i think, i'll check my folder.
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Soldering the ends on is fine as long as it's done right. Maybe it's just the pictures but they don't look to good.
Maybe someone else will chime in with some ideas and if you find anything after going over the wiring diagram let us know.
Good luck :)
 

skindaddy

Member
i checked some more with tester, but need to clarify when you say voltage across large post on solenoid, are you saying touch one lead to each of the lg post correct? as in across the 2
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
The best way to check is one post at a time positive lead to the solenoid post and negative lead to battery pack negative.
 

skindaddy

Member
ok good i finally got that(i am a moron) , i misunderstood you said across post. battery neg to each post i have 38-39 volts.

i really dont know what to do now went through all the wiring everything seems to be in right place, nothing loose.
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Have you checked for power on both large solenoid posts when the car won't run? My guess is either the solenoid stops working when you drive a while or the controller is going in to thermal shutdown.
 

skindaddy

Member
quit many times this weekend one time was different, i was driving and it was cutting in and out every few seconds then died at about 80yds, tow it half way back and it fired up drove rest of way.
so yesterday i took apart bunch of cables also at f/r switch crimped all large 4ga cables to rule that out, replaced the couple small ones that got hot on solenoid with little bigger wire too, cut off a couple more ends and replaced to rule out those.
tighten every connections with bolt/nuts put back together and NOTHING. so i know it wasnt from heat also i;ve never felt any heat on anything ever after quitting.- so after pushing go pedal 40times and wiggling wires and still nothing , i walked away for a few minutes to cool me down and walked up and pushed pedal and stupid thing took off!!
notes
had voltage across post after quit at least first time
can hold pedal down and wiggle/jerk every wire and never get it to jump or work ever.
axe controller led reads normal operation flashes green then goes solid green even under not running situtation
also took prob over an hour messing with wires so it was not hot and didnt work.

can anyone tell me how to remove motor? do i just unbolt and pull out of gear housing? nothing will fall apart at housing or come undone that i wont be able to slide motor back in?
has new solenoid(same results as old solenoid), f/r switches , micro switch in foot pedal, yr old batteries (38-39volts),and now a couple new wires.
 

skindaddy

Member
thanks i got nothing to loose, gonna just give it a peak and see, i figure its either this or the controller - even though led lights read correct.
 

skindaddy

Member
took motor out brushes look good a few marks on armature but nothing bad, blew out put back together, tore f/r switch apart, fixed one more wire, took controller apart but that thing is sealed like a drum.
runs but sometimes still has issues , only thing i can think of is controller, i cant see spending that much cash on it at this point, just keep going as it is.
 

skindaddy

Member
Well it's me again/still, been having same problems since and still last post. Will work awhile then all sudden stop again. Controller always reads green LEDs that all is well even when won't move. The way I got it to work all summer if failed was to tap one of the post on controller with hammer always same one and would always work.
Question can the controller still be bad if the LEDs say ok??
It's only thing I can think to replace, been out of this cart thing awhile anyone know what the cheapest aftermarket controller there is I believe I have an axe controller now.
Idk what else foot pedal controller? But has to go through that first before controller and LEDs read good.
Sucks this thing isn't worth a whole lot, and can't figure out the bad part.
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
What make and model is the controller? When the golf cart stops moving does the solenoid still click when you press the throttle pedal with the key on? Is the controller or any cables getting hot while your driving the golf cart? Did you ever redo the ends on your cables? What you're describing is usually a sign of the controller going in to thermal shutdown, bad connection at one on the cables or the solenoid is dropping out.
 

skindaddy

Member
Alltrax AXE controller, replaced solenoid, yes still clicks sounds normal but no go. After click hold down pedal like driving LEDs on controller go through sequence show all is well.
Yes crimped end better or replaced.
One wire was warm on solenoid, but replaced with bigger almost year ago plus didn't look good anyway so replaced.
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
I read through the entire thread again and the only thing I can think of is if tapping on a terminal on the controller makes the golf cart run I'd say either the cable on that terminal isn't making a good connection, there's a bad connection inside the controller or the solenoid has a bad connection or is bad. Seeing how the solenoid is mounted to the controller when you tap on the controller terminal you would also be shocking the solenoid.
 

skindaddy

Member
Ok thanks for the help again. It's so frustrating, double checked connections all tight. Idk have to figure out the cheapest controller I can get and maybe try that. Just stinks LEDs all read good unless it's on the output side after the led Indicator, whichever that is.
 

skindaddy

Member
hotrod, was hoping to pick your brain if you have the time, to shorten it sometimes it would run and quit all sudden sometimes it wouldnt, now the golf cart does not run at all, hasnt since august. The last time it did run / quit I could smack terminal on the controller and usually would go so I thought maybe controller ( or something loose), but money is tight and really dont want to keep throwing money at a $800-1,000 golf cart and not so sure controller is actually bad. Here are alot of readings i took today maybe one will catch your eye. or just look like a mess lol.

ITS micro switch pedal up 37.7v pedal down 0v (across switch)
ITS pillow block thing pedal up .59v pedal down 5.68v
motor all 4 terminals /with neg tester on neg. batt terminal all 36.5v no pedal
motor all 4 terminals/with neg tester on neg batt term all 37.7v pedal down (gains 1v)
big terminals on solenoid reading across the two one is 36.5v other 37.7 they jump 1v with pedal down
little terminals on solenoid across the two get 37.7v pedal down
little terminals neg tester on neg batt one term is 37.7v other is 0v
controller terminals neg on batt B- is 0v , M- 37.7v , B+ 37.7v (m- and b+ gain 1v pedal down)
F/R switch term for big cables neg to batt, all 4 gain 1v pedal down 37.7v

I have a video of what it does if your interested could email it, you hear solenoid click controller light does its thing reads good but no movement.
also adjusted the ITS
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
I really don't know what to tell you on this. Like I said before when the golf cart stops running and tapping on the controller makes it run again I would think there's a problem with a connection at the controller or solenoid, the controller itself is bad or the solenoid is bad. Have you ever looked closely at the small wire connections on the controller?
 
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