I got mine to move down by at least a foot. Just used a heat gun on the body. That was my problem. With the z-lift, it pulled the body front out about 2". It took a lot of time but I am happy with the results. I will post pics in a while. I am so busy right now. It will be worth the wait. Believe me. It turned out AWESOME.
Well I was a little bored at work today and needed a new windshield (friend broke my current one). So I just got new headlights that are suppose to be better and adjustable. Picking them up in about 1 hour.
I tried to adjust them first with some wire, but I said screw it. Going to Disney Wilderness Cabins this weekend and need some better lights quickly. I like the looks of the other lights more I think. I'm not sure I picked the right ones tho, I was going to get plain black bezel ones. But the guy talked me into the chrome bezels lol. Guess I'll find out soon enough.
Good ole heat gun works wonders. Just kept heating and heating till it was flexible enough to bend and hold then used wet rags to cool it in the position I wanted.The side body was bent in so when mounted, it pulled on the front corner of the lights to bring them down. On the front piece of the cowl, that was shaped till it was pointing at the ceiling. When bent down into place to mont, it pulled the whole front bottom part down. I had to reshape the "wings" because of the shocks hitting the body. It turned out geat. In the pic with the lights showing on the door, is a before and after pic. I turned the lights on and marked the door then made my heat adjustments. Big difference. I am happy. I am going to lift the rear another 1 1/2" so the cart has a slight tilt toward the front. Right now, it sets a little lower in the back. I hope to get the front put back together today after work.
Nice, big improvement for sure. Mine were way worse then that tho. Where the light is in the 2nd picture is where I was able to bring mine down too. If mine was showing in that picture, it would be near the top of your garage door (before I added the spacer to bring them down a bit). The place I got the cart from mounted them to high up on the cowl so they are tilted back.
I have been very busy. I got the FE350 together. Waiting on the side cover gasket. I was sent the wrong one. Very disappointed. I also took an old worn out clutch that the belt wouldn't go to the top and did some modifications to it. Here are the results:
Before- 24.6mph @ 5320rpms
After - 29.8mph @ 4730rpms
This was tested on Roadster Extreme running 23" All Trails.
All it took was some grinding in the right places. Since this was a junk clutch for testing only, I am going to have my other 2 clutches professionally done to my specs so they are ballanced right. I can't believe the difference!
Engine is together and running. I am very happy with it. I left the rpm limiter hooked up and it shuts down at 4200rpm for some reason. My 290 would shut down at 3900rpm, Just for the break in time. That 350 sure has some power now. I hit 31.5mph when the rpm limiter kicked in. And it didn't take long to get there. Can't wait till I get about 25 hours on it so I can open it up and see what top speed is. I am hoping for about 35 mph @ 4700-4900rpm if the engine will rev that high. I think it will but its going to need a good 1/4 mile. I hope to post pics this weekend. It sure looks pretty sitting under the seat
Wass, I like your bike spedo setup. Does it work well?? Is there any calibration necessary? Is it accurate? I have seen pictures of how to hook one up, but I was just curious because they are made to work on a much larger radius tire... or doesn't that matter??
The speedometer works great. Fully programable for anysize tire and very accurate. You will have to splice in a longer wire but that is easy to do. You just measure the roll out of the front tire and convert it to metric and enter it in the speedometer. You will have to rig up a mounting bracket or use a hose clamp and put it on your column.
Video of it running. The clicking you hear as it is trying to start and when it shuts off is the CRS. Compression Release system. There is a clutch like system on the back of the cam that opens the exhaust valve slightly as it trys to start. You can't check full compression on this type of system. It should be 70-75lbs. Mine is 78psi. So that is good. It was 60psi when I first got it.
Its the best $15.95 I ever spent. Clutch used to engage around 900rpms. Now it is 1300-1400rpms before engagement. It really made a big difference taking off. And the clutch is fully closed at 3000rpms in maint. mode. I bought the kit from BU and going to put it in my daughters cart. And I am going to use the electrical part in Goliath. I want it to stay running.
Here are the pics of the machining in progress and the video of the difference it made. We took off up to 125thousands off 2 of them. This clutch was the worst! Look at the gap now.
This pic shows how bad this clutch was. You can see how far the belt went up. This was the test clutch. It has bad worn grooves it it. Now it preforms better than new.
Daughters cart will get up to 30.5mph @ only 4100rpms. Its about like having high speed gears. Very quick and very stable. The clutch modification worked great. Can't wait to see what the torque spring in the drive clutch will do.
I had to pull the FE350 out. Found a problem. 4200rpms and the smoke bellows out. Found that the valve area is not draining the oil properly. It runs out the tube into the carb. I have to pull the head and clear out or bore the return.
The engine only has about an 1/8" drain going back into the block. And with the tilt of the engine because of the lift, it fills the valve cover up further before it starts to drain the oil back in to the crank case. So, at high rpms, it over fills the valve cover with oil and then dumps it into the carb causing it to smoke horribly till the rpms come down and it can drain back into the crank case. So to remedy the problem, I removed the head, side cover, lifter and cam. I ran a 1/4" drill down through the drain hole and honed it out side to side and now it has a 1/4" oval hole to drain. Cleaned out all the shavings and put the cam, lifters and side cover back on. I am waiting on a head gasket (and a few other goodies ) to put it back together and test it.
This is what my garage looked like showing how bad it smoked when it started dumping oil into the carb. I shut it down as soon as it started smoking. The second picture shows the drain hole I drilled out. I can't believe it had such a small drain hole before. I wished I took a before picture.
Well, that is everything up to now. My head gasket will be here today and I hope to put it in today or tomorrow. I may have a bigger engine yet for it. I will know more this weekend. It really needs a bigger engine. Or the torque gears back in. Its fast and all, but I still want to be able to go off roading and hill climbing with it. You know me. I want the best of both worlds.
Thanks for the info on the spedo... When summer hits, I am going to get one. I am also thinking of getting a Tiny Tach as well, but am looking for something anagogue (dial-type). Not sure if something like that exists for a 1-cylinder engine or not.