Star Classic with Curtis Controller Code 3-4 Missing Contactor

jablake53

New Member
I'm working on a Star Classic golf cart with Curtis controller that won't run due to Code 3-4 (missing contactor)
The Curtis controller #1244-5461 is installed in a 2006 Star Classic golf cart
When the key is turned on the contactor does not click and the controller starts flashing 3-4
The contactor coil and contacts were tested and even though it tested good, it has also been replaced (and probably replaced before I got the non-working cart)
The controller was sent to be rebuilt and was returned after testing found no problems. I rechecked everything I could think of and eventually sent it back to be re-checked. It was again returned as no problem found.
I went back over everything I could think of to test and then purchased a new Curtis 1244-5461 and Programmer #1313-4331.
Of course it also has the same code 3-4, missing contactor.
To keep this from being 3 pages long, I have left out test results, wiring checks, diagrams, etc. but can supply any information that might be useful.
Any help or suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
John Blake
 

jablake53

New Member
Thanks so much for taking time to respond. There is no pre charge resistor but I had read about them being using on some applications. So I installed a 1kΩ resistor across the main terminals and when I turned the key on whack/click! the contactor engaged and disengaged. My hopes soared but alas nothing changed. The controller is flashing 3-4 and the cart won't move. I have purchased the factory programmer and I found a parameter "pre charge" and set it from "on" to "off" (I could have this backward) but when I turn the key on the contactor clicks just like with the resistor and it still has code 3-4.
I'm currently writing a blog that will detail the seemingly endless list of things I have changed, replaced, measured, photographed, etc. and will post a link to it as soon as I get a little further along with it.
If the key is turned on and off 4 times, the next time it is turned on the contactor will click. I think this probably has something to do with residual voltage in the capacitors because after leaving the key off for a while it goes back to doing nothing when the key is turned on (except for blinking 3-4)
Thanks again and if you think of anything else I will check it or post the results if I already tried it.
 

jablake53

New Member
OK, I put a 270 Ω resistor across the main terminals and the controller engages and disengages the contactor and then flashes code 3-4.
 

Zman

Cartaholic
A code 3-4 is field missing, first thing i would do is raise cart , remove field wiring and inspect for poor connections with the eyelets on end of wires. Chinese are noted for poor connections , second thing is ohm the 2 field terminals on motor, you should have around 1-2 ohms, most of the time Chinese motor fields fail because they tend to rattle in motor and a wire eventually breaks causing an open circuit.
 

Diode

Cartaholic - V.I.P. Sponsor
Controller: 1244, Fault: 34
Fault Name: Missing Contactor
Fault Cause:
1. Any contactor coil open or not connected.

Controller: 1244, Fault: 34
Fault Name: Main Contactor Did Not Close
Fault Cause:
1. Main Contactor missing or wire to coil open.
 

Diode

Cartaholic - V.I.P. Sponsor
Things to check voltage of solenoid coil whether it's intermittent or continuous duty whether there is resistance on the main contacts if all of that checks out perfectly then maybe the controller is bad
 

jablake53

New Member
A code 3-4 is field missing, first thing i would do is raise cart , remove field wiring and inspect for poor connections with the eyelets on end of wires. Chinese are noted for poor connections , second thing is ohm the 2 field terminals on motor, you should have around 1-2 ohms, most of the time Chinese motor fields fail because they tend to rattle in motor and a wire eventually breaks causing an open circuit.
Thanks for responding. Before I got authorization to return the controller to the rebuilder to have it rechecked a second time, they asked me to check the field winding resistance and it is 1.1 Ω During testing I did cause a code 1-3 (field open). I cleared that code with the 1313-4331 programmer and have not had it since.
 

jablake53

New Member
Things to check voltage of solenoid coil whether it's intermittent or continuous duty whether there is resistance on the main contacts if all of that checks out perfectly then maybe the controller is bad
The contactor looks new and when I supply battery voltage and ground to the windings it snap in and the resistance across the terminals is .1 Ω. Even though it tests perfectly, I purchased and installed a new contactor with the same resulting code 3-4. All of the control wires, battery cables, terminals etc. are completely clean and free of corrosion. I thought the controller must be the problem so I sent it off the be rebuilt, when I got it back I still had a code 3-4, I requested that it be retested and after I completed the tests that they requested I returned it for testing/repair again. It still has the same issue. I went through everything again and even bought a Molex pin kit and built a test harness to eliminate the existing wiring. Finally I purchased a new, (not reman) controller and had my hopes crushed when it had the same code 3-4. I paid $340 to have the controller rebuilt, $535 for the new controller, $560 for the factory programmer/tester, and $60 for the new contactor. If I need to pay $900 for a brand new controller I'll do it but you can see why I'm uncertain about it.
 

Diode

Cartaholic - V.I.P. Sponsor
It should be closer to 300 on depending on what meter scale you're using and do you have a diode across the terminals that could be backwards
 

Zman

Cartaholic
I guess your next step is to make sure both wires to the control side of solenoid are good, Disconnect both wires, one wire should have key power and the other one ohm out to pin 17 on the 24 pin connector. NOTE- place tow/run in tow before disconnecting 24 pin connector. I am going off a 1268 diagram and it should be the same as a 1264. Curtis does not show a diagram for a 1264 any more. Maybe Diode has one . Also check pin 9 and pin 23. if you have wiring there you have a walk away relay , this is for roll detect and the wiring or relay is bad, a easy test to see if it works is just push or roll cart. you feel controller try to stop it from rolling. This is also considered a contactor by controller. If there is no wires on these pins or just one pin you do not have roll detection.
 

jablake53

New Member
It should be closer to 300 on depending on what meter scale you're using and do you have a diode across the terminals that could be backwards
Thanks for continuing to try and help me. Just to clarify, the resistance across the control coil of the contactor is 222 Ω. When B+ and ground are applied to the coil it snaps in and the resistance across the main terminals is .1 Ω i.e. a good connection. Even though the contactor tests good, I purchased a second contactor (same part number, but a cheaper knock-off) and it made no difference. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHMGG2P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The controller is actually a 1244 not 1264. I have the diagram from Curtis for the 1244 and it is the same as the one you posted. B+ is supplied to a 4 wire splice from the key switch. One wire goes to pin 1 (KSI), one wire goes to pin 9 (coil return input), one goes to the contactor control coil, and the last one goes to the interlock micro switch on the throttle where it returns B+ to pin 2 (interlock input) any time the throttle is off idle.

The ground side of the contactor coil goes to pin 17 (main contactor driver output). It is about a foot long and .1-.2 Ω of resistance, but even thought it tests good, I used my Molex pin kit and made a new wire. Of course there is nothing wrong with the original wire so it didn't help.

contactor_testing_2.jpg
 

Diode

Cartaholic - V.I.P. Sponsor
Send me your email address I will send you the schematic and manual for that controller I think it's wired wrong
 

jablake53

New Member
I wish it was something a simple as Pin 9 should not have B+. However, the wiring has not been modified and the Curtis wiring diagram shows B+ straight from the key switch to Pin 9. I don't know what it uses to decide that the contactor is missing but it is confusing to me that the "coil return input" is actually just a B+ wire.
Pin 9.PNG
 
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