Rebuilt EZGO 295 Engine But a Lot of Problems

gregwagner32

New Member
I recently had my EZGO 295 engine exchanged for a rebuilt through a company on ebay but have a lot of problems. I have had many warning signs to this point that the job was done was less than satisfactory. I wont go into the multiple issues. I have installed the engine and have ran it for about 2.5 hours. It seems sluggish on acceleration. So I checked a few things, adjusted the valves and decided to do a compression test. Both cylinders are at 75 psi. My question is about how long should it take to achieve max compression? I would assume it should already be close to where it would top out by now. (Probably wishful thinking...) Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 

Nubs

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
On a rebore the compression will be at 175/180 lbs right from the start. Are you checking the compression by holding the throttle all the way open with your hand? it does make a difference but i don't think you will get there from 75lbs, I stopped selling rebuilds on ebay for this very reason. Everyone and there Brother say there rebuilder's.
sorry Your having a bad experience, recheck the compression as i said and see where its at. i have a feeling its a cam timing issue:twocents:

Welcome to the Forum:hattip::usa:
 

gregwagner32

New Member
Thanks for the welcome and the reply!
Yes, Throttle wide open, fully charged battery, and double checked valve clearance at .004 before preforming. Tried two different compression testers. Both Cylinders show 75 psi. The motor does run. As far as the cam timing, would one belt being off a notch produce that kind of compression result? Thanks again!
 

Nubs

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Well the fact that the compression is the same on both cylinders make me lean towards cam timing. There are a few common timing problems with those engines, some easy to to fix and some are not. Your working with an engine with no history so its gonna take a bit of digging.
I would start with removing the the timing belt cover, the bottom bolt behind the drive clutch is hard to deal with the clutch installed.
 

Rstaley

Cartaholic
Did you try adding oil into the cylinders (about a tablespoon) and trying the compression test again. If it is rings not being seated issues, that should increase the reading. I can't imagine that being the problem, with only 75 psi, but at least it should help pin it down. I've rebuilt several, and as Nubs says, they should be in the 170-180 range right off the bat. You can also take the spark plugs out, rotate the crankshaft, put a pencil or something down the spark plug hole so you can see when tdc comes up on each piston and take a look at where the valves are (watching them go up and down). Sounds like something is goofy with the timing all right. Good luck and please keep us posted.
 

gregwagner32

New Member
Timing Belt appears to be aligned properly. Any other thoughts?
 

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Nubs

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Are the pistons at 100% on top dead center? I would check the alignment pin behind the top cam pulley bolt and the key on the bottom one as long as its out on the bench:twocents:
 

Nubs

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Hmm..
Clamp it to the bench and lets do a compression test with oil in the cylinders, pull the fan shroud and ya can use a drill to spin it over.
 

gregwagner32

New Member
Removed timing belt and upper an lower sprockets. Cleaned all mating surfaces and reinstalled. Double checked valve lash. Bench mounted engine and did a compression test with oil in cylinders. Registered about 150 psi. The drill I used was struggling...
I'm not sure if the oil made that big of a difference or if something was off in the timing belt / sprockets.
 

Nubs

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
well if the keyway was good in the lower pulley and cam pin was locking the top pulley then the cam drive was correct, TDC was on so the oil in the cylinders shows the rings are not sealing.
 

gregwagner32

New Member
Thank you for all the guidance. I started having a feeling that it was probably going towards that conclusion... I knew that I should have done the rebuild myself, but was going to try to buy my way out of it. I should have known better...

I hate to be that person, but the rebuild that I received has proven to be very disappointing to say the least... From receiving an exchange instead of my original engine, to extensive oil shavings in the crank case upon receiving it, to dirt and grime all over the engine that was just spray painted over, to a leaking crankshaft seal, to a stripped exhaust manifold stud, to a valve adjuster nut coming loose and ending up in the crank case, to finding a broken lip on the lower timing belt pulley, to finding out that the bearing in the timing belt idler pulley is galling and has extensive play (about worn out), to now the possibility of the rings... And to top that off, the seller has told me they have never had any problems... Go figure... I did research a couple of the GC forums and they had been recommended a couple of times so I thought I was safe...

I think at this point, I'll probably just do what I should have done from the beginning. Order the parts and rebuild it myself.... Again, I wanted to say thanks for all the guidance. If I find myself needing any expertise advice in the future during my rebuild, I now know where to go! :thumbsup::usa:
 

Shootrig

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
I hear ya, I bought a vintage JD Lawn Tractor (was inexperienced in them, didn't do my research) and although it has been a "good" tractor, the price I paid was far too high.
 

Fourfooter

New Member
Had a similar experience with CT Rebuilds out of Georgia. Definitely put them on your NO BUSINESS list. Ended up rebuilding myself. Runs great!
 
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