Project objectives met. Very much please with results!
I decided to put all my stereo components, including the speakers, in the front of the cart for two reasons, 1st I wanted to keep all cabling of the system in the front of the cart, as far away as possible from the motor, the IQ system’s computer and motor controller. The 2nd reason is that we wanted stereo for our listening, not caring too much about the stereo effect or quality of the audio for those that may be seated in the rear or anyone outside the cart (bad attitude, I guess).
What actually started this project was to see if I could install a stereo with little to no RFI/EFI to the FM broadcast receiver while “underway”. As mentioned before, local cart shops do not recommend installing stereos into 48Vdc IQ Club Cars because of the interference. Since the project began, I have experienced the interference in a couple of carts. The only thing that “worked” while underway was the CD player! One of the two I rode in had a dash mount unit and the CD worked great. The other had an overhead console that worked fine on smooth streets but did “skip” a few times on a semi-bumpy road. (I did notice that the entire roof shook badly, not just the stereo, so?...)
Before going forward I will share one “lesson learned” (for me). NEVER-EVER, take on such a project without the proper “cart specific” wiring diagrams including the basic cart wiring, voltage reducer wiring, lights wiring, horn wiring, etc. This holds true especially, as was in my case, where someone had re-wired prior and spliced wires with different colors, then hiding the splices inside the plastic tubing/conduit. It makes it harder, and more time consuming, to trace wires when they enter the tubing as green and come-out as red! I have now attempted two of such projects… my first and my last! (Why have I now ordered the Maintenance Manual and the Photo Parts List Manual?)
The cart motor generates Amplitude Modulated noise which mostly effects AM Radio reception. Club Car’s IQ system’s computer and/or motor controller generate RF signals (when cart is underway) strong enough to “de-sensitize” or over-power the received FM Radio signals. The only wiring planned to go back of the dash is the +/- 12VDC to/from the 25A converter/reducer mounted next to the 6, 8VDC batteries. #10 twisted pair used for this 12VDC. The twist should help somewhat reduce the RF signals “riding” forward on the feeds through cancellation characteristics of the twists. I installed a #43 ferrite bead with 3 loops in each leg which helps reduce signals in the frequency range covering the 88 to 108 MHZ FM Broadcast band. I also installed a ½ wave vertically polarized marine antenna mounted on the front right cowling. The vertical polarization and the fact of not needing a ground plane (no connection to frame or body as in a car install), should reduce the amount of signal received from the IQ computer and motor controller.
As shown in attached photo, I used 4 speakers up front, forward and above the review mirror angled down toward ear level. Each has a 4” woofer/midrange driver and a separate 1” tweeter. The subwoofer was planned to be under the roof (again to keep wiring away from rear) but unfortunately the size would not allow doing so. It is now in the bag well, just below the rear seat, double “shock” mounted. The subs wires are #16 twisted pair, again hoping for some RF cancellation. I used # 43 ferrite beads in-line.
The dual cone sub cross-over is set at 200Hz. It is fed by a 100w (total) amplifier. Volume is adjusted with the line-level output control of the stereo. I have added cross-over networks to the speakers. The outer most front right speaker (right channel) and the outer most front left speaker (left channel) are set for frequencies up to 800hz. The inner most right and left are set for up to 2,000 Hz where they cross-over to the tweeters. This allows both of the right and both of the left front speakers to work together at the lowest frequencies for maximum low-end extension, while only the inner most work at higher frequencies for maximum dispersion. With this configuration, the impedance of each speaker did not significantly change since I am using the “rear” channels of the stereo for the outer most speakers and the “front” channels for the inner most. This also allows for individual volume adjustment with use of the stereo’s Balance and Fade controls. The phase of the sub and the tweeters can be reversed but no noticeable interaction is occurring. May play with it a little more later. We are both 100% satisfied with the sound of the system.
As stated above, objectives met. All accessory wiring operates from the new 48VDC to 12VDC (25A) converter through the new power distribution panel.
We have no noticeable RFI affecting the FM reception even when underway! All favorite stations, including the station 70+ miles away in Florence that carries the NASCAR races are received “loud and clear”!
After I clean up the cart I’ll take some more pics and post.