We are having a problems with our 1999 EZGO TXT golf cart. It has a 4hp motor / 400 amp controller. Last year is when the trouble started. We replaced the batteries for new ones. After installing, golf cart would not move. Tested batteries all test 6 volts but one. I removed batteries and reistalled the ones we had and still nothing. Removed 400 amp controller and installed stock controller. The golf cart would move forward but no reverse. I rebuilt the forward and reverse switch and now the golf cart is up and running. Over the winter we sent the cart out to be checked for loose wires and they replaced the F/R switch for a brand new one, and reinstalled the 400 amp controller. They delivered it in April and the golf cart was running fine. We removed the batteries and installed the same 6 from when the problem started. The golf cart ran for a day and then just died, not slow but just quit fast no warning. I brought cart back to were we had it over the winter, he reinstalled the stock controller and the cart was running again. Last saturday we were out riding around and you guested it died, just stopped running. The 250 ohm resistor on the solenoid is hot even when the cart is off? This tells me the solenoid is stuck closed even though it clicks? Could both controllers be junk? Does it need a solenoid? Would batteries do this? I would think it would die slow if it was batteries?
Problems With EZGO TXT Controller, Solenoid, Hot Resistor
- Thread starter BCGC
- Start date
gornoman
Well-Known Member
Some things to ponder:
The solenoid resistor is active whenever the ignition is on AND a gear is selected. It heats up because a small current load is passing through it. It stays warm for a long time AFTER the current stops. It converts electricity into heat, that's a byproduct of it's function.
A solenoid can click and still not work correctly.
A solenoid can overheat and storp working correctly.
I suggest you jump the large posts of the solenoid with a 6g wire and test the cart. Be careful as the cart may react different than normal.
The solenoid resistor is active whenever the ignition is on AND a gear is selected. It heats up because a small current load is passing through it. It stays warm for a long time AFTER the current stops. It converts electricity into heat, that's a byproduct of it's function.
A solenoid can click and still not work correctly.
A solenoid can overheat and storp working correctly.
I suggest you jump the large posts of the solenoid with a 6g wire and test the cart. Be careful as the cart may react different than normal.
gornoman, i'm stuck. went up to camp this weekend try'd jumping solenoid and got nothing this cart will be the death of me. so being at camp i had no computer so i called bu tech support. talk to greg, we went thru the tests controller, solenoid, battery pack everthing checked out with the meter, so he tells me it in the f and r switch makes sense to me because i rebuilt it this last winter. greg told me to by pass it 12 and 3 o'clock together and 9 and 6 o'clock together, we did and nothing , greg say it may be the motor. ok, so i hooked up the stock motor and still nothing??? we by-passed the reed switch checked all the wires gone over this cart over and over and have hit a wall. over this winter this cart was in my garage for repairs last year. the owner last year had the same problem, but i do want to know what you think about what's going on. 2 years ago, i installed a 400 amp - 4 hp motor hd solenoid and the hd buss bars the cart ran fine for a year, the cart had older batteries in it. instead of buying new, he bought a set of second hand ones from a friend. after in stalling the batteries the cart would not move so then he calls me, simply because of the motor kit i installed. i look around and can't find anything so he sent it to a repair shop and they tell him it's the controller, so he gets it back has me install the old controller and the batteries that were in the cart to begin with. i get the cart running. has reverse and no forward. so then i find a burned up copper stud on the f and r switch, i replace it the cart is up and running. over this winter the cart was in my shop at home,the controller came back from being checked out so installed the 400 amp and rebuilt the f and r switch. bought the board ,studs ,micro switches,springs , new buss bars. it was a little cheaper this way. installed it cart ran all winter up and down the street, spring comes i deliver the cart everthing is fine. the customer decided to put the batteries that started this problem back in, the cart ran for a day and just dies not slow like weak batteries, but dead. so i tow it back in, i'm thinking controller, so i replace the 400 amp with the stock one the cart runs, i think i found the problem so i return it. he get one day out of it and now it dead. the batteries read 36 volts in the pack 6volts per.but i'm stuck i don't know what to do now. do you think it's the micro switches i bought from bu? maybe i miss undrstood the f and r by - pass that greg told me.? mybe the batteries are just junk?the reed switch was ok but we by passed it just because we had try'd everthing else. if there is anyone out there that can fix this cart my hats off
to you because all i get after he installed second hand batteries is a click from the solenoid! bcgc
golfcartmaint
New Member
Same problem here interested to see what else to try. Resistor BURNT off the solinoid, new one gets hot when batteries are connected. Thinking forward an reverse switch is bad? I have 36 volts on pos side of solenoid but nothing on controler side. The reed switch burnt so I jumped it. Going thru test pages (ref from this site ..thanks) page 5 no power on blue wire to controller post 7 to solenoid. page 7 no power on wht/blk wire to controller post 1. reverse buzzer not working. Any thoughts?