*Penetrating Oil Tested*

Ol Jake

Cartaholic - R.I.P.
This was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters I just got....

Here is an interesting article submitted for our members consideration, 'Penetrating Oils'.

Recently “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts.

They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.

This is what they came up with:

Nothing: 516 lbs

WD-40: 238 lbs;

PB Blaster: 214 lbs;

Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,

Kano Kroil: 106 lbs

(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

This last “shop brew” of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat
out the commercially prepared products costing far more.

Another common ‘shop made” rust buster is Glycol based brake fluid mixed with a bit of Acetone.

I have used this myself and it really works great. *Just be careful as brake fluid will remove paint!


New Member
Good info! I have no scientific testing, but my experience always had me reaching for WD40 first, if that didn't work, then Liquid Wrench, them finally PB Blaster. I have some rusty old junk, so I'll keep this in mind!


New Member
I use a combination of 1 part ATF, 2 parts Acatone, and 2 parts mystery oil. Stuff works like a dream.
A friend of mine when i was in the service ,what they apparently now call a 911 heavy wheeled mechanic got me in to using it. Never bought anything since. I use a old can of penetratingredients oil, soldiered a metal valve stem on the top, I just add the mix hit it with a little air and BAM a new can.


New Member
I use Aero-Kroil for the worse case scenarios. I used to use it when I worked in the commercial hvac trade. great product.