Parts came in I'm ready to work!!


I'm going to keep this short since this thread is only for a couple technical questions that have me confused. Exciting news...most of the parts for my Honda Civic upgrade came in except the charger and a few things like the gauges. I must say Kelly Controllers did a fantastic job!
I went with the 120 volt 600 amp controller and also bought their assembly board. It comes pre-wired and assembled with the contactor, fuse, cooling fan and controller. It looks tight and well built. Kelly's customer service and shipping is remarkable too. The parts come straight from china and I had them in less than a few days. I would recommend them to anyone looking for a controller.

I was reviewing the wiring diagrams and going over everything in my head before jumping into this. Do you guys have any safety tips for me? I've been zapped countless times on 48 volts and while that's fun I would really love not to let 120 volts go through anyones arm or head.

2nd concern is chassis grounding...the kelly control panel which is already assembled and wired has the B- running to ground. There is a copper Z bracket connecting B- to the aluminum board. If this 120 volt controller is using the car's chassis for grounding won't this interfere with the 12 volt auxiliary system for lights etc?

Last question for now, can I wire the ignition to the car's stock key switch?



Instead of running 2 huge ass 15 ft cables to the batteries in the back of the car, is it acceptable to run just the pos. cable back there and use the chassis for neg ground? Would this harm anything or anyone around the car? How does this affect the 12 volt system onboard?


Well-Known Member
Run both cables. Use the same logic as we use when we upgrade to 4g welding cable for less resistance and better amperage transfer. The car's chassis is not intended to handle high amp loads efficiently, cable is.


Thanks for the help gorno.

Frank the 600 amp 120 volt was $899. I also bought the assembly board for an extra $199 which seems worth it in the long run and makes things a whole lot less complicated for a 1st timer like me.

Just finished modifying the adapter plate for the new motor and new shaft coupler.


I'm so excitied to be working on this car again. Did a little today after school modifying the motor adaptor plate.


Oh baby yes these are all going in the car.

More goodies


Inside motor area looks so much better after some paint and body work. That Duplicolor bed liner stuff works miracles on those old bumpers too.





New motor and tranny paired up.


Cartaholic - R.I.P.
Are you going to study engineering when you go to collage Ace? Because you would make a hell of a good one.


Thanks guys!! The car went together quick and easy yesterday with the brackets already made it was just like a bolt in install. The only thing left is the fun old wiring.
There's a few things I have questions about. The KDH owners manual has about 5 different wiring diagrams. I was able to narrow it down to 2. I'll get these scanned in a minute and post them.


Ok here's the first one, let me know if it needs to be enlarged.

What do they want you to do with that 12VDC? They have 12 volts going through a fuse, then a power switch to PIN 8 PWR in the controller. This is for turning the controller on right? Are they using the 12 volt auxiliary battery to do this by the car's ignition switch?

Does GND stand for ground?

The pot I'm not sure how to wire. My Curtis PB-6 has 2 wires coming out of it, blue and brown. There is also a 3 pin microswitch. I just don't understand at all how to match this up with their wiring diagram.

Why is there a brake and reverse switch? I don't know if I even have those. By reverse do they mean forward and reverse switch like a golf cart? What is brake switch?

This may not be the right diagram. There's another one that makes more sense to me.



Here's the other diagram, page 10, which I think makes more sense. The problem I just realized with the first diagram is that it doesn't have both J1 and J2 connectors.

This diagram has optional thermistor. Do I need that?

I am using a separate 12 volt battery instead of a DC/DC converter. So going by the diagram, does everything on the OUT side of the DC/DC stay the same...I just won't have to deal with the IN side from the main 120v battery pack?

Still don't understand the brake switch in this diagram either.

The pot box wiring...

That should do it for now. Thanks for everything.



You have done a fantastic job on this electric car conversion and should be proud of it.

Sorry I cant help on the wiring.