"On/Off" Switch for Voltage Reducer?

StreetGlide

New Member
No where have I found a wiring diagram or install instructions which indicates having an “on/off” switch in-line with a 48vdc to 12vdc (25a) Voltage Reducer. Since it is to be wired in parallel to the 48vdc battery string in my ’02, CC, 48v, IQ cart and since it incorporates an active switching circuit (dc to ac) and a rectifier/regulator of sorts (ac to dc) wouldn’t it draw some current even with no load? Is it biased “off” until a load calls for current? How about during battery charging? Is it okay to leave it connected in parallel to the batteries during charging? Guess it has more “smarts” than I thought???
 

JRay

Cartaholic
Anyone have any experience with these reducers? I would like to add one to my cart.
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
All of the voltage reducers I've seen draw a small amount of current when not in use. If your cart will be sitting unused for any period of time I would wire a switch like you mentioned...
 

JRay

Cartaholic
Then a simple toggle switch should take of that, i would think. Or would it have to be a high voltage switch? I have one of those battery equailser things or whatever you call them on my old cart and it runs the batt. down, i have it disconnected now, save your money not worth the price. That thing would also be a good candidate for a switch.
 

GarageBuilt

Well-Known Member
Mine is wired stright to my key. No need for another switch. leave it on all the time. Let's say you turn on your radio before you remember to flip on the converter. You just sent 48 volts to a 12 volt radio. When it comes to charging the batteries, just plug in the charger. Thats all.
 

DWS

New Member
Any of the voltage reducers I have seen the instructions say not to leave connected all the time, but add a switch to control? There are so many different units out there that you should take each one by its installation instructions.
My neighbor had a minor fire because his cheap ( CHINESE ) unit that was ON all the time overheated, thankfully he had a fuse on his 48 volt pack that saved his cart even if it was way too high a amperage?? I would add a fuse low enough to protect in line from power source to the reducer.
Most carts key switches are not heavy enough to handle the increased flow so I went the expensive route and added a additional 48 volt solenoid that draws only a minor load hooked to my NON FACTORY KEY SWITCH.
Several carts in the park are using a HD light switch with 3 wire set up. The first pull turns on the brakes and voltage reducer, the second pull turns the factory lights on as normal. This would be the way I would go as it is much cheaper. I do think that this could possibly be an overload of factory wiring to stock light switch and would use a heavier wire to feed the switch?
Hope this gives you some ideas?
 

JRay

Cartaholic
We were posting at the same time DWS. I will go buy one, read the directions and then we can get back into it. Thanks My purpose for installing one is for a radio, I am running my lights on 16 volt now.
 

StreetGlide

New Member
Thanks for all the comments.

I continue to read what I can about the subject and find no model with decent instructions/wiring diagrams. All indicate straight (parallel) connection to the 48 volts.

My plan (as of this minute anyway) is to use a DPST switch to completely remove the Voltage Reducer from the 48 volts when not needed for accessories. Not using an "intentional" common ground, breaking both the positive and the negative leads with the switch would guarantee no unintentional current flow through the voltage reducer. The leads and the switch would only have to carry 5 to 6 amps MAX, at 48 to 56 volts, so wire size could be minimum (I'll probably use 14 gauge since I happen to have a bunch and install 10 amp in-line fuses.

Between the voltage reducer and the accessory terminal strip (25 amps at 12 v) probably 10 gauge would be plenty large. I'll "in-line" fuse each accessory properly.

"Over Kill"??? Comments appreciated.
 

GarageBuilt

Well-Known Member
I dont think we are all own the same page.

Voltage reducer...........It allows your assessory to use only two 8v batteries & reduces 16 volts to 12 volts. $64.99

Voltage converter........ It converts the entire battery pack from 36v or 48v to 12v. $149.99

If you use the V-Reducer, those 2 batteries can become unbalance from the rest of the pack. Keep a good eye on them with a volt meter. You might have to charge them separately from time to time.
 

StreetGlide

New Member
Whoops! Guess I should clarify that it is a 48Vdc to 12Vdc "voltage converter". (even thought the name on mine is "Voltage Reducer 24/48 - 12V") Original "reducers" were a wire-wound resistor, correct?
 

StreetGlide

New Member
Update:

I purchased a 10 amp combination SPST toggle switch and circuit breaker rated to handle >250Vac, >50Vdc with a dielectric rating of >1500Vrms, an interrupt capacity of >2500Adc and tested at 2x "rated specs". This switch will be wired in pos(+) input lead to cut “on/off” battery input to the 48 to 12Adc converter/reducer. Plan to mount the switch/breaker (waterproof toggle) either through kick plate just above “F/R” rocker switch or under seat next to "Tow/Run" toggle switch.

Radio/CD going in glove box in PolyPlanar water proof enclosure. Four 2-way “marine” speakers will be enclosed on top of dash behind windshield and a PolyPlanar waterproof 50W 5.5" sub/amp mounted in club-well. (sub will definitely not be a "big boomer" but after hearing one in a boat, I believe it should fill the lows just fine) The plan is to use a snap-on, vinyl, club-well cover to hide sub.

Input of radio is 10Adc (max) and sub amp input is 7Adc (max).
Output of converter/reducer is 25Adc.

Below, I hope, is copy of the wiring diagram for the radio/CD and voltage converter/reducer (never tried posting image before).

I would very much appreciate comments, suggestions and/or corrections. Working with 48Vdc inter-mixed with 12Vdc and with no common/chassis ground is all new to me.

Thanks
 

CraigS1001

New Member
This is how I am wiring mine in. I have all the wires run I am just waiting for the 3 way switch. Although I have a separate push/pull light switch, the key switch with the 3rd position "lights on" is where I am going to wire in the reducer. This way, I have FULL control over the acc.
 

StreetGlide

New Member
Now I confused myself even more. Where is the 12Vdc now on the key switch generated if the cart does not already have a voltage reducer?? Guess I've got more research to do.

TNX
 

DWscott

New Member
To simplify all the problems that you will run into by attaching any kind of reducer- controller, why dont you just put a small 12 volt battery like I used on my club car. Its a handicapped scooter battery ( U1 ) series battery that can be mounted in almost any position and is cheap $60.00 and is 71/2" X 51/2" X 71/2". Its a sealed battery that is very deep cycle and is rated at 35 amp hour rated. This make me only have to recharge it twice a month for my usage, with a cheap 12 volt charger.
By doing this you are protecting the voltage sensative items such as radio stereo and amplifiers. Whenever you step down on pedal for any reason on an electric cart the voltage drops and things start browning out, and this is not good.
I went a more expensive way so as not to forget and leave 12 volt battery turned on all the time by adding another 48 volt solenoid ( with Diode ) for controller protection and hooked it to my non factory switch for safety sake.
This way power is only to accessories such as brake switch etc when key is turned on. This total addition only cost about $95.00 with battery and is much cheaper than any Reducer-Converter set up I know of??
I mounted my battery over the top of my front suspension on a plate with solenoid and fuse attached for simplicity.
JUST MY TWO CENTS WORTH?
 

JRay

Cartaholic
I've been kicking this reducer idea around for a few weeks now. I only run lights, but this time of year i use them about everyday. Having some battery imbalance issues. I am going to go with the small battery to run my lights. Cart batteries are too expensive to be screwing them up. My only reservation is the inconvienance of charging it.
 

StreetGlide

New Member
Yes, the re-charging "hassle" is one reason I decided to go with the converter/reducer. My use of cart even in summer time is a lot of relative short trips with a few longer ones along the way. I use about 50 to 60% total capacity in 2 weeks or so, never less than a week. Only time I use lights are 4th of July since all my travels are on City streets and driving after dock is not "allowed" except then.

Another reason for going with the converter/reducer is that with radio and amp on I will draw around 15 amps at 12 volts. Figuring 70% to 80% max drain on a small 35 AH battery comes out to less than 2 hours before charge required. Goes back to the "charging hassle", I guess.

Then, perhaps mis-thinking, the radio pulling 15 amps from 12 volts out of the converter/reducer is only pulling 4 to 5 amps maximum from the total 48 volt battery chain. That is a small drain compared to the cart motor so I didn't think it could make any difference accelerating, etc. for the motor or the radio. I also "assumed" that the way I am wiring it, it would protect the cart batteries, the radio/amp and the converter/reducer from any possible interacting damaging voltage(s). The words "mis-thinking" and for sure the word "assumed", are starting to concern me.
 

DWscott

New Member
JRAY
Do like I did and add a power outlet on dash ( Cigarette Lighter Outlet ) and wired it with fuse direct to 12 battery, then by getting a plug in from radio shack and wiring it to charger leads there is NO PROBLEM in charging as needed.
All usage will be different but I only need to charge my handicapped scooter battery twice a month when Im charging battery pack.
 

JRay

Cartaholic
I thought about that, wire a male plug to the charger? I do have that kind of stuff around here. Never throw nothing away you know.
 
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