Odessy 925 Battery Cranking Amps

Andy4639

Member
Well I don't know what these batteries have now. I just found these numbers on the same battery! They have 7 different 925 batteries listed.

Capacity/20 Hour: 30.0Ah

ODYSSEY PC925
12V 28.0AH SLA BATTERY
CCA 380

TDAWG,
I may do a test on both sets but it sure will take awhile. Changing those batteries out want be fun at the track but it maybe worth it.
 

StreetGlide

New Member
Hello,

Andy, a 925 is a 925. The difference in the part # is type of terminals and where they are located. A 925 has the ability of providing basically 30 AMPS for 1 hour. Or, to make it sound cool (and another reason not worth explaining for our usage) it will provide 30 amps total, at a steady 1.5A, for 20 hours (whoopee).

Also, for clarification, the total resistance and the applied voltage determines the maximum current flow. If you put larger batteries than you need with more amp hour capacity than you can use, then yes, the controller can be used as a limiting device for current and voltage delivered to go the motor. It is done by pulsating the voltage/current, being able to control the pulse rate to change the average voltage applied, etc.

The real key is to design your electrical system to provide exactly what you need. To do so, there are programs available that will figure the exact size of the motor you need, the battery voltage you need and the current you need. As noted before, the resistance is the key to being able to design the system properly without wasting $. I understand that several Hot Rod sites have programs written and you are just asked to fill in the blanks and they do the work for you. Of course, they are mostly written for full size vehicles and include requiring info that would be difficult to input for a golf cart.

There are, however, new EV sites coming on-line that have similar programs. I used one the other day that I think with a couple of mods will be very useful figuring acceleration. Anyway, you are asked to input all the weights involved, the frontal surface area/other things for computing drag, the rolling friction (one of those things requiring another program to figure as several inputs do) tire sizes, tire tread, tire compound, differential ratio, differential efficiency, type of surface, grade of surface, average wind speed expected from what direction from the cart and on and on. Once all info is inputted, you press the enter key and it lists how much voltage needed, current needed, torque, acceleration ratio, maximum speed capable, etc. Then you can go back into the program and change inputs. An example, you can change tire size and see the effect of doing so, etc. Once I figure out all the calculations needed for the inputs and may write my own and sell it! HA! (Just kidding)

I noticed too the other day that there are at least a couple of EV consultants advertizing the capability of the design, the complete parts list of hardware required by the design, prices and the everything you could imagine. Prices started at $200.00 an hour, but did state they could bill in 1/4 hour increments.

One source that I keep hearing about (that I will probably use when ready to buy the motor) I believe is named "Call Robby" or something like that!

There is a lot of neat stuff "out there"!
 

Andy4639

Member
Tom, you just have way to much info. I can't even begin to figure all this out. LOL I like to hear this in person some day and plan to look you up in the near future when I get back to the beach.
I'm just a simple REDNECK wanting to make my golf cart faster than the next REDNECK!!!
:rotflmao:
 

Andy4639

Member
I went and dug up the paper work with these batteries.

925's

volts=12
20ah=28
10ah=27
My setup is 72 volts in series only

So can some one tell me what I should expect for a 12 second run.
I pushed the cart to the staging area it's very easy to push with 1 hand and this is with driver on board.
GE D398 6.1 Non-Peak HP @ 5330 Rpm, 36 Volt, 25 Mph, (High Speed & Torque - "The Raptor") DC Electric Motor

 

GarageBuilt

Well-Known Member
Hang in there with Tom, Andy. He will teach you well. Amp hour is the correct formula. But. And with no disrespect to Tom. A racing pack is considerable different. For me it is about the amps. I understand the amps. Power comes from the amps. Amps also keeps your pack from dropping voltage. I build the battery pack form the controller down. If you have a 750 amp controller. That is all the amps you need from your battery pack. There are controllers on the market that will allow you to build your battery pack with enough amps to keep you from dropping voltage while only sending the desired volts to the motor. I hope that I don’t make us all just a little more dumber with my two cents. But at least I understand my self.

Tom. Lets build a battery pack.

550 amp controller.
130-volts to the motor.
Run time 8sec.

Using your formula. What would your pack consist of? Battery amperage? And how many. weight is big factor.

My pack will consist of 22 of the odysses 680's The will pack will be series & than parallel.
pack weight will be 330.lbs

Any one can join in....
 

Andy4639

Member
Dang GB you were the reason I went to the 925's, now you are going to the 680's. I don't understand?

680's= 20ah=16
680's=10ah=16

22x12=264 volts Total
From what is on the 680's I have they weigh 16lbs so that's 352lbs.
Using the 925's with 17 of them is 204 volts
This is 425lbs worth of batteries but the AH rating is almost double of the 680.
It's 20ah=28
10ah=27
OK if you use 14 925's you will have 168 total volts and the 28 ah rating. The weight is basicly the same 350 lbs.
So what would be the better setup, remember you have the cable weight to figure into this the extra connections and the room for that many batteries.
:twocents:
 

Andy4639

Member
I had to read it again to understand you.

11 batteries in series then another 11 hooked up in series that is parellel with the first set.

11 608's = 132 volts + another set @ 132 volts hooked in parellel is going to give you.

132 volts total but the ah will go up and the voltage drop off will be minimum during a 10 second run so that = to more runs off of 1 charge.

Series and Parallel Battery Wiring
Lead-acid batteries always have 2 volt cells wired in series to give the desired voltage. Some batteries have 3 2 volt cells in the case, already wired together for 6 volts. Most battery banks use a combination of series and parallel wiring.
Series wiring increases voltage but NOT amp/hour capacity.
Parallel wiring increases capacity but NOT voltage.
OK if you agree with that then with 11 batteries in Parallel @ 28 ah for each you end up with 616ah total. Correct?
This is just a guide not what you have. Why even bother with hooking the second set of batteries in series since it want increase the voltage? Just hook them in parallel with the first set?
 

GarageBuilt

Well-Known Member
When a pack is in series. Your #'s will only be what one battery is rated for. If you use a battery that has 500 amps & just say 2 amp hour. That would be the total #'s for the entire pack. It want change untill you paralell the pack. And then only will the amp hour change.
 

Andy4639

Member
Connecting two banks with different capacities in parallel is technically fine since the batteries will be operating at the same voltage. Charge and discharge current will be shared, based on capacity. It is best if the batteries are of the same type and age. For example, avoid combining a sealed (gel or absorbed glass mat) battery with a flooded (conventional) battery because they have different charging setpoints. Broadly speaking, you can parallel batteries without problems, and the charge controller will look after them. Just make sure you give them plenty of charge. If the system tends to operate at less than a full state of charge, adding new batteries to old will probably just result in the old ones pulling the new ones down and everything getting sulphated.
 

Andy4639

Member
Guy's I have been reading all day on batteries and I think I have got what I need but you tell me OK!!!
I found this and it's what I have been reading all day and looking at schematics and caculating with.

OK 925's state they have a 28 amps @ 20 ah rating

Formula:

28 / 20 = 1.4ahr draw til it's completely dead.

Ok take into effect the 60% discharge and you have cut it down to 12 hrs instead of 20 so

20 x .60 =12ahrs now at 1.4 amps til it's dead

Now for what I want

This is using full amps of the controller which is 700amp's! This would never see 700 amp's but just wanted it to show max time.

28x.90=25.2/700amps =.036 seconds before each battery would be drained correct?
This is all based on using 700amp's the whole time which I know in real world want happen.

Now my next ? for you is how do I find what the amperage is for the motor in a real world situation.


Part ID: D379
Product Weight: 51 lbs.

HP: 4
RPM: 4150
Bearings: Ball
Enclosure: Totally Enclosed Non-Ventilated
Field Volts: 48
Motortype: Series Wound
Thermal Protection: None
Base: Flange mount
Armature Volts: 48
Torque (oz-ft): 81.0
Amps: 72.0
Model Number: 5BC49JB1115
Duty: Continuous
C Dimension (inches): 9.4
NEMA Frame: N/S
Item: DC Mtr 4 HP 4150 RPM 10 Tooth Series Wound Mtr
Catalog Number: D379
Now if I go by this it say's the motor needs 72amp's and that @ 48 volts so with 72 volts it should be even less right. That means I get 35 minutes out of the battery @ 48 volts.
 

StreetGlide

New Member
To GB and all. Ref your posts above, I have made comments below. I haven't even looked at posts since I read this one from you earlier. Hope it is still relative.

Hang in there with Tom, Andy. He will teach you well. Amp hour is the correct formula. But. And with no disrespect to Tom. A racing pack is considerable different. For me it is about the amps. I understand the amps. Power comes from the amps.

Power comes from Voltage(E) & Amps(I). Power=E multiplied by I . A battery just by itself with nothing attached to it has the potential of providing a certain qty of amps for a certain length of time depending on the "load" (resistance it will feed once it is connected). For racing or for any other use, there needs to be a way to document the amount of that potential. The standard (developed back when Pope Paul was a choir boy) is to provide the qty of amps the battery can provide in 1 hour's time. That is called the Amp/Hour Capacity. (note that some batteries such as Lithium Ion, AGM because of the way they are made, can provide extreme amount of current faster than others, some companies rate their batteries on different amounts of current for different amounts of time/current flow (depending mostly on which makes their batteries appear best). The only way to compare apples to apples is to use a standard. The standard is and hopefully forever will be, Amps per Hour (total amps the battery can provide for 1 hour) (Save the difference in discharge curves till way later in discussion)

Amps also keeps your pack from dropping voltage. I build the battery pack form the controller down. If you have a 750 amp controller. That is all the amps you need from your battery pack. There are controllers on the market that will allow you to build your battery pack with enough amps to keep you from dropping voltage while only sending the desired volts to the motor. I hope that I don’t make us all just a little more dumber with my two cents. But at least I understand my self.

GB, it is apparent that you understand current and voltage, however, I disagree somewhat with the way you explain it and I think sometimes your "causes and effects are backwards". Bare with me a minute while I (again) go back to my water comparisons...

Please picture this:
We have a five gallon bucket full of water hanging 10' up from a tree limb.
There is a small diameter hose connected to the bottom of the bucket that hangs down to just above the ground.
The hose has a clamp holding it the closed just below the bucket.
We remove the clamp and water begins to flow.
It takes 1 hour for all the water to drain which means the flow is 5 gallons per hour or Gph, correct?
For a moment, think of the bucket and water as a battery, the hose as the wiring, and the water flow the current. If so, the 5 gallons per hour flow rate equates to 5 Amps in one hour or 5Ahr total capacity.
Now, let’s go back up the water system.
I add a small decorative water wheel at the bottom of the hose.
I fill the bucket back-up with 5 gallons of water and remove the clamp on the hose.
Water flows at the rate of 5 gallons per hour and the water wheel barely rotates.
It is apparent that we need to increase the water flow to get the water wheel to speed-up for the “look” we want.
The only thing restricting (“resisting”) the amount of flow is the size (cross sectional area) of the hose.
To increase the “cross sectional area” (to lower the resistance) of the hose, we have to increase the inside diameter of it.
Okay, we replace the hose with a larger one, doubling the cross sectional area.
Again, we fill the bucket, remove the clamp and the water wheel turns, but WAY TO FAST.
We have measured the time to empty the bucket with the larger hose at 30 minutes.
If we had increased the hose by 4x it would have only taken 15 minutes to empty the bucket.
Okay, too much water turning the wheel, so now we need to reduce the amount.
Instead of trying to find a hose between the two sizes we tried, let’s add a adjustable valve.
A valve will let us “CONTROL” the amount of water. Controller? Yep.
So, as with the water, we can add a electric current controller to a circuit that can vary the current.
With a controller, the foot pedal electronically controls the current flow.
Some controllers also allow controlling the maximum current and voltages through programming.
Important facts are:
The maximum current that is available from the batteries to a load is based on the voltage of the pack, its maximum Ahr capacity and the resistance it sees.
I = E/R, once you have the maximum current available from the battery, the total resistance of the motor doing the work and the adjustment of the controller limits it. That’s the real purpose of the motor controller.

GB, as you are aware (based on your past comments), you can always go to the max in voltage and Ahr capcity, then use the controller to drop back to the voltage and current you want the motor to see. I, on the other hand want to design to what I want without paying for more than I will use. Also, since you are building a cart as “unlimited” or a “exhibition class” the maximum battery capacity doesn’t matter. But in the case of a 48, 72 or 96 volt “class” (racing groups/sanctions, etc.) the class is specified by total voltage and Ahr capacity of the battery pack, rather than what is actually delivered to the motor. So using a controller as you have mentioned wouldn’t really be an option for what I want to do

Now, for the fun part of all this
550 amp controller.
130-volts to the motor.
Run time 8sec.

Using your formula. What would your pack consist of? Battery amperage? And how many. weight is big factor.

My pack will consist of 22 of the odysses 680's The will pack will be series & than parallel.
pack weight will be 330.lbs

Sounds like a fun thing to do. Might have more questions, etc., but I’ll start working on something as soon as I can. I’ll advise status with posts. Perhaps others will join in the fun. Perhaps you could change the parameters to max size of the cart, a certain top speed, ¼ mile time, etc. and design toward those parameters, or specify max voltage, cart weight? That way we could design to come-up with type motor, controller, batteries, etc.?? Whatever would be the most fun and provide the best education for all of us participating...
 

StreetGlide

New Member
Control voltage drop? There is voltage at the supply (batteries) and in pure DC there is equal voltage at the motor (minus the internal voltage drop of the batteries, minor voltage drop through the controller [depending on its efficiency] and a voltage drop caused by the resistance of the cables, etc.

Are you referencing my comment about "Some controllers also allow controlling the maximum current and voltages through programming."? Most programmable controllers can adjust the output voltage by changing the pulse width of the voltage which reduces the average voltage available to the motor. (Remember that the controller does not output pure dc.)

The other way is to lower the resistance or raise the initial battery voltage to make-up for the losses caused by the resistance as you have mentioned prior. EXAMPLE (losses shown are hypothetical): If you want a maximum of 130 volts (from your design parameters, in your previous email) at the motor at full current draw, and you have 3 volts loss in the wiring (resistance of the wire multiplied by the maximum current) and let’s say the due to efficiency of the controller it has a 4 volt loss at maximum current and the batteries (total) have a 12 volt internal loss (maximum current multiplied by the total internal resistance of the batteries) you would need 149 volt battery pack. (130 +12+4+3=149) So, I would install a 144v battery pack (would take 2, 72v chargers). The motor would see approximately 125 volts.
 

Andy4639

Member
OK,
from what I have always figured if I want to have a cart run on 72 volts then I buy either 6-12 volts or 12- 6 volts. Now with these new Odessy batteries you get 78 -80 volts for the 6 -12 volts so that in itself is more than enough to take up the slack or drop in voltage for a 9-10 second run. I think anyway.
 
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