Looking at Buying a EZGO What Models Should I Look For

ff92

New Member
Greetings all. New to the site and am looking forward to the valuable input from all members. I'm looking at picking up a 2000 gas engine cart from a fellow, and that's all I know! It's EZ GO and mechanically sound according to the seller. I'm driving 8 hours to pick it up, how can I give it the express Westminster to make sure it's not a lemon, aside from driving it. The owner sent pictures, outside looks mint, engine looks a little dirty, drive belt is slack as can be.

1. What models of EZ GO were available in 2000?
2. What maintenance can I do to assure many miles of use?
3. Can/should belt deflection be adjusted on these units, to sit high in the driven clutch like my sled?

Thanks for getting me started.

Kelly
 

Nubs

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
welcome
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well a new belt width is 1 3/16, if the belt width is close but it is riding down in the driven my guess would be the driven is stuck open some or the spring is broken. there is no tension adjustment, taking a compression test will tell alot on those engines. anything under 150lbs is getting worn or may need a valve adjustment. look for oil in the air box = blow by
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ff92

New Member
Thanks. Maybe I'll bring a comp. tester with me. What's the procedure for checking compression on these engines?
 

ff92

New Member
Awesome, Thanks. The seller says it's a twin cylinder, does that mean it's the 350 or is it the 295?
 

Nubs

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
depends on the model, both are two cyl's and look the same. eh29 is the 295 and eh35 is the 350, most yrs have a decal on the timing belt cover or the left side on the plastic shroud behind the carb.
 

ff92

New Member
Well, here she is. A 2000 TXT, EH29C. Compression is 165 PTO, and 157 MAG. Belt width is 1.077 inches, need a new one I guess. Rear leaf springs look sacked out as well. Put new plugs in her, some seafoam in the crankcase and the fuel tank, washed and armor all the plastics. When going forward, stopping and hitting reverse the clutch seems to engage pretty hard, spins the tires on gravel even. Is this normal or do the clutches need further inspection?
 

ff92

New Member
Yes, complete stop, then switch to reverse, feather the throttle, still clunks. I don't know if it's clutching or in the rear end. Any idea where a good place to buy replacement heavier rear leaf springs, windshield and a drive belt is?
 

ff92

New Member
...... and a happy Independence Day to my neighbor's to the south. I just got back from a short vacation around the Minneapolis area, beautiful area, super friendly people, felt like I was still in Canada.
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ff92

New Member
I've purchased new ramp buttons for the driven clutch. Is clutch removal necessary to change them out or can I do it right on the machine? Drive belt change looks pretty straightforward as well, so slack it should be easy to swap in a new one. Any advice is appreciated.
 

ff92

New Member
My clutch is nowhere near as clean as your specimen! Trying to get the rusty snap ring off. I'm thinking all that mud is hindering performance.
 

ff92

New Member
Lubed the hell out of the splined shaft, clutch is sitting in the utility tub without a snap ring, hoping it blows apart overnight! I hammered on the shaft, didn't budge. Can I heat or are there bushings to worry about?
 

Nubs

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
there is some spring pressure but not a lot, soaking should help. if ya can keep tappin' the cup/ramp from side to side it will break loose, if ya mushroom the end of the spline your in for a fight.
 

ff92

New Member
Brought the clutch in to work today. Tapped, poked, prodded, pulled, pried, tapped again, hammered, pressed, hammered, soaked, hammered, heated, finally gave up. While trying to get the sheaves apart I was amazed at how much grease, yes GREASE, kept squeezing out from between the two sheaves. I've never seen anybody grease a clutch before. Needless to say I just ordered a new one.
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