ITS 3 Wire

[Wes1]

A friend asked me to look at his 2007 R&T 4x4 Hunter model. Because I was unable to find a complete schematic for the vehicle I created one. The schematic took several weeks to complete, but with it I was able to solve the vehicle issues within a few hours. This particular vehicle had three issues simultaneously: 1) bad key switch 2) bad ITS and 3) a frayed wire to the ITS.

The Curtis controller had a 1,2 LED pattern, which seems to be fairly common. Once I replaced the ITS and found the frayed wire leading to it, the controller worked like a charm. I also replaced the key switch with a 3G EZGO Golf Cart 4-Terminal/3 Position Key Switch from Amazon. I had to grind down the sides of the Amazon key switch but it eventually fit into the original holder and works great.

It is my hope that this schematic, which incorporates the new 3G key switch and NOCO ITS module, can help others and minimize future frustration when repairing their R&T vehicle.

 

[HotRodCarts]

Thanks for the follow up and for the Ruff and Tuff wiring diagrams.

 

[Wes1]

Oh! The NOCO website has replacement relays on their site.

https://www.nocoev.com/ - Forklift and Golf Cart Contactor / Solenoid List

https://www.nocoev.com/ Catalogue of contactors, contactor / solenoid list. https://www.nocoev.com/ is the online supplier of EV parts, supplying DC contactors for electric vehicles, golf cart, mobility vehicle, forklift, ATV, etc.

www.nocoev.com

 

[Wes1]

A friend asked me to look at his 2008 (not 2007) R&T 4x4 Hunter model...

 

[Mattoxh]

Great job on the wiring diagram. I am attaching a diagram I got from the folks at Ruff and Tuff. I had a 1-2 error the only way I could clear it was to input 14-15 volts from pin 13 to the ITS instead of pack voltage from the emergency brake. Since I was using voltage from the controller a ground is not needed so I used a 2 wire ITS. The ITS sends return voltage back to the controller Pin 14. I also tried using a 3 Wire ITS connected to Pin 13, 14 and 15 and the 1-2 error disappeared. The only down side of the 2 wire ITS is 5mph speed loss 24 mph to 19 mph. Again I commend you on you diagram. What is thoughts on what I did.

 

[Wes1]

If your method works and you're happy with it, then it would seem to be a good solution. - Per the schematic that you've posted, I don't see the speedometer, key switch or wiring for the 4wd and axle lock switches on it. Perhaps the wiring was changed in the 2009 model.

 

[Mattoxh]

The schematic I have came from Ruff and Tuff it is lacking. Yours is a work of art. I got the idea of using low voltage into the ITS from the wiring info from a 1268-5502 Curtis Controller. I had two controllers fail in 6 months and have yet to determine why they failed. I had the dreaded 1-2 fault code until I reduced the voltage from pack voltage to 15 v from pin 13. I think an ezgo is wired similarly. I would really like to get my speed back to 24 mph.

 

[Wes1]

I don't know why the Curtis controller would fail after 6 months, however, as a guess, it may have to do with the power regulator on pin 13. Pin 13 may not be rated to supply enough current to drive the ITS for long periods. Would you post a link to the 2- wire ITS that you've used?

 

[Mattoxh]

My Controllers failed with the OEM 3 wire sensor and after replacing it 3 times the 1-2 fault code never went away until I changed to the 2 wire and reduced the input voltage. If memory serves me correctly I changed to low voltage input and left the 3 wire in place and the fault went away. I never tried changing the sensor a new 2 wire to see if that was the problem.
The. First controller that I lost I wrote it off to age and I replaced it with a rebuilt controller that lasted 6 months. I had the original controller rebuilt and installed it again and it lasted 1 week, installed the 3rd controller and the 1-2 code still flashing. The guy at the shop reset all the parameters with handheld Curtis Programer and 1-2 code kept flashing. Nothing changed until I changed the input voltage from the emergency brake (pack voltage) to pin 13 on the controller.
The 2 wire sensor is from a 2wd three seater RT that I got for parts. No idea if a model #.

 

[Mattoxh]

Attached is the 2 wire sensor before I removed it pretty sure there were no markings or a part number. Will check and let you know.

 

[Bodein1982]

Am I reading your message right ? That you found a 3 wire tha will work and how much Iis it? Can you buy it separately? I saw that whole assbly for a forklift but they said it would work it was a Curtis !

 

[Mattoxh]

I am still using the 2 wire I took from an old RnT 2 wheel drive cart. Wes1 found a 3 wire look back at his post.

 

[Wes1]

Yes, the 3-wire from NOCOEV works great and cost less than $50 including shipping. I have it operating presently in my 2008 4x4 Hunter model and get my cart to roughly 27-30mph in high speed mode. You will need an adapter plug but that's easy enough to buy. No rewiring of the vehicle is needed otherwise. The schematic and photo that I posted for the ITS shows the pin out for the F8.

 

[Wes1]

On the NOCOEV website there's a dropdown menu to only buy the F8 model, 3-wire ITS without an assembly.

 

[Mattoxh]

Thanks for helping.

 

[Bodein1982]

Hot damn , we are finally getting collaborative on these orphaned kids who had a R&T existence in their foster care ! Lol , I live these little quirky bitches ! Or bastards which depends on the attitude they give me , and what they do or decide they won't do ! They are hot out the gate , no gas burner has the accelleration out the gate like these electric beasts , lol

 

[Wes1]

If you use the ITS from NOCOEV then you'll also need to make an adapter plug. I've listed the receptacle and mating pin below which I bought from DigiKey. Together they cost ~$2.


0009501031
WM18814-ND
CONN RCPT HOUSING 3POS 3.96MM

0008701030
WM18820-ND
CONN SOCKET 18-24AWG CRIMP TIN

 

[Mattoxh]

Great Thread info on R&T has been a long time coming. Thanks to everyone who is sharing. What are your thoughts on buying a hand held computer to change the controller settings. They are expensive and I am not aware of any hacks that will let you use a laptop.

 

[Wes1]

I saw a new Curtis handheld reader listed at $600, which is fine for a professional that's repairing vehicles routinely. However, for just 1 or 2 vehicles that are a hobby project, I think it would be better to simply rent a handheld unit which are listed at roughly $40/month. You may have to get on a waiting list to rent a handheld reader but it is likely more cost effective than buying a unit.

 

[dalaux]

Hey guys this has been a great read and possibly the answer to my R&T problems! I have a '08 or '09 (don't remember) 4x4 Hunter. Bought it new and have loved it with no problems until now. Original batteries finally went down in '18 and I had to wait till now to replace them. Put 6 new AGM 200Ah in and it will only go at "creep" speed. Curtis 1268-5502 shows the same 1-2 code you all speak of as well as a 5-4 code. I have the curtis manual and it seems to fault the "walkaway" circuit. I can't find any bad fuses, relays or wires with a very thorough looking. My best guess is the ITS but sure hate to throw parts at it without some other confirmation. How did you test your ITS to be sure it was bad? Is there something else I should be checking?...yes I have checked the "mode" switch in the glove box. It has no effect, tests good with ohmeter and this is way slower than the 1/2 speed I remember that switch causing before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!