Sooner1, I just found your post on this thread after replying to your other thread to me. Sounds like the identical issue I am having with my R&T 4x4. Since my last update I have replaced the aux. solenoid (smaller, orange one). It made no difference. I am now beginning to think I have either replaced a part with another bad part or it is in the controller. I think my next step is to find someone with the programmer (Curtis 1311, I believe) and try using it to turn the "walkaway" to off. The 1268 manual shows this to be an option in the Programmable features. I am assuming that if I set the "walkaway" feature parameter to "none" it will not try to read those pins and eliminate the entire function. Only other way I know is to borrow someone's functioning controller and hope I don't have another short somewhere in my cart that caused a problem in mine that will hurt theirs. I don't mind buying a new controller if I know it is the issue but sure don't want to replace two of them and still not work!
Diode, Thanks for the info on where to order the exact speed control I need. I'll order one today.
Dalaux, I agree that we have similar problems. I'm concentrating on replacing the speed sensor because when I unplug the J2 plug on the controller which disconnects the speed sensor, it makes no difference to the speed of the motor. The motor runs at exactly the same speed with or without the J2 plug being connected.
I also suspect the walkaway function is causing my problem. I disassembled the small solenoid and found corroded connections on the bottom side where the screws contact the wires to the coil. I've read that there's an internal diode in the solenoid. I've checked the resistance on the coil/diode and the readings are suspect. I also found one of the wires on top that was frayed. I re-soldered the wire to the connector. When I replaced the solenoid, nothing changed in the speed of my motor.
According to the Curtis manual, there are three wires to the J1 plug for the walkaway function: #3 - Input from Walkaway fuse sense line; #9 - Walkaway return, coil return from Walkaway relay; and #23 - Auxiliary Driver, for Walkaway/EMB driver low side output. I'm thinking about disconnecting one (or all) of these wires to see what happens. It seems to me that disconnecting inputs to the controller shouldn't harm the controller.
Does anyone else think disconnecting inputs to the controller will hurt it? I found that disconnecting the J2 plug and plugging it back in makes no difference in how the motor runs, so I suspect that disconnecting the Walkaway wires will not hurt anything.
I appreciate any information from you R&T experts.
Great minds think alike, just apparently not good enough! I don’t see any harm in disconnecting the pins. However, I think as long as the walk away/EMB parameter is set to on, the controller will simply read a fault in the system and default to engage thus still limiting current to the motor.
I read somewhere on Cartaholics about someone talking to a technician at Curtis Controller about issues with their controller. I believe the issue concerned the Induction Throttle Sensor. However, I can find the post about how to contact Curtis Controller.
Maybe one of us can call Curtis Controller and ask about disconnecting the WalkAway function wires. It would be interesting to know if the controller is programmed to detect a fault if the wires are disconnected. Hopefully, disconnecting the three wires will disable the Walkaway feature.
Diode, The resistance of the relay coil is low since it's just coiled up wire. I'm not sure if my relay coil is good or not. I unplugged the J1 plug to the controller and measured the resistance across the two terminals ( A1 & A2) that excite the coil and read 380 ohms.
I suspect my relay coil may be bad because the other two terminals (1 & 2) that close when the coil is energized show with my VOM that they are closed at all times. I have not seen the relay open or close.
It's my theory that the speed sensor and the WalkAway function are related and a faulty speed sensor may cause the WalkAway function not to work. I think the speed sensor detects movement of the cart when it's parked and sends a signal to the controller that activates the relay coil which sends voltage to the motor. I believe there's a feedback circuit that enables the motor to keep the cart from moving when parked.
We need some more relay coil resistance measurements to figure out how to troubleshoot the Walkaway feature.
Here's an update on my efforts to fix my neighbor's R&T cart. Diode suggested I contact GoFastGolfCarts to purchase a US manufactured speed sensor. Apparently some Chinese speed sensors are defective.
I emailed GoFastGolfCarts and they requested I send photos of my sensor. After I sent two photos, they asked me to call and talk to one of their techs. Today i spoke to the tech and he said a Club Car speed sensor will work on the R&T carts - as long as the plug is changed. He told me that the Club Car and R&T speed sensors have the same internal workings.
I ordered the sensor, part number CC-AD-S1, at a cost of $30 plus $3.95 for shipping. I'll switch the plugs when I receive the new sensor. I hope this works.
HotRodCarts, I replaced the speed sensor that I ordered. I had to change the triangular plug to the flat plug used on the Ruff & Tuff (the wires are color coded the same.). The new sensor did not fix my problem with low speed. It appears to be working as the speedometer works. Replacing it eliminated this as being the cause of my problem.
While working on my R&T, I had a rear wheel raised off the ground and with the accelerator pedal pushed down, I wiggled the Molex plug on top of the controller. Suddenly the cart began running at full speed (25 mph according to the speedometer.) I've check all the connections away from the Molex plug and found everything to be okay. I'm convinced that one or two of the wires in the Molex plug are not making a good connection to the controller.
I plan to order a new 24-pin Molex plug today to replace the old one. I don't look forward to attaching all the pins on the wires to the plug. There's a 24-pin Molex plug listed on Ebay for $17.29 + tax.
Along with my trouble shooting, I found the key switch to be faulty. I ordered the EZGO switch mentioned on this thread to replace it. In the meantime, I hot wired the switch in order to continue trouble shooting.
I'm close to getting the R&T fixed. The Molex plug is located on top of the controller and is susceptible to collecting moisture on a wet day. I've found water standing on top of the controller after a rain even though the seat was in place. It looks to me that some of the pins in the Molex plug are corroded and that is the root cause of my problem.
I found a way to make my R&T to shift from low speed to high speed. This requires the addition of an off-on toggle switch installed on the dash or on the steering column. I installed a switch and have tested it for several days without any problem.
In wiggling the Molex plug, I was breaking/making contact with the pink wire on J1/1. This wire goes to the master relay and activates the coil on the relay. Switching the voltage on the pink wire off and on while pressing on the accelerator causes my cart to “shift” from low to high speed.
I did not replace the Molex plug. Instead I used some spray contact cleaner along with pinching together the female connectors on the plug to make better contact. This fixed my Molex plug issue.
Along with everything else, I replaced the key switch as it was intermittent. The EZGO switch mentioned up-thread works great. I ordered the switch on Ebay for less than $20. Be sure to buy a switch that has the terminals labeled (B, B1, L & I).
Another problem I found was the main fuse mounted on a piece of plastic on the right side. I found the nuts and washers on the bolts to be rusted which caused the fuse connections to be intermittent. This would make the cart to lose power at times.
I wired the toggle switch between the post on the master relay and the pink wire. I mounted the switch on top of the plastic cover on the steering column that covers the key switch and plugs. I ran the wires to the switch below the rubber floor mat and up the steering column.
To operate the toggle switch, begin moving forward at low speed with the switch in the “on” position. While moving, turn the switch “off” and let off the accelerator pedal. Then simultaneously press on the accelerator and turn the switch to the “on” position. This is tricky at first but when done correctly, the cart will “shift” to high speed. When you let off on the accelerator pedal, the cart will shift back to low speed.
I’m not sure why the switch causes the controller to go to high speed. I may have an issue with one or both relays. Or there may be a glitch in the controller. However, this simple fix is a way to get the cart to run at 25 mph.
This has been the most difficult golf cart to trouble shoot and fix that I have ever experienced. In saying this, this cart performs better than any cart I have ever driven. It’s impressive how fast these R&T carts will run!
I'm thinking about purchasing a 2007-2008 Ruff&Tuff that will need some work. The seller does not know if the cart has the Curtis 1268 controller. Does anyone know when Ruff&Tuff began using the Curtis 1268 controller?
Not sure, I think it may have more to do with model. My brother had a 4x2 R&T without the 1268 but my 4x4, both ‘08 does have the 1268 as well as another 4x4 I know of. I’m not sure there is definite consistency among any of the R&T’s. Almost like they were put together with what they had at the time.
Ok, so I finally received the rented Curtis 1311 programmer. Just as I had theorized, when I set the walk away parameter to “0” all is well!! Not sure why the walk away was essentially “stuck on” thus limiting the current to the motor. The diagnostics on the programmer are quite impressive as it told me the position and reading of every switch, relay and contact. It confirmed everything I had spent hours testing with a test light, voltmeter and ohmmeter in a matter of seconds with a few clicks of a button. Only change I made was the walk away parameter and there is no longer an “open fuse” trouble code and the cart runs great! Don’t know what fuse or circuit it is reading as open when everything tests good. I still suspect it is internal to the controller, but really don’t care anymore!