For R&T Parts check out RTgear.com should have everything The guy that owns RT Gear Owned Ruff and Tuff originally. . Also Ruffandtuffparts.com.
The four wheel drive system will eventually give you a problem, i don't think it was ever perfected. I have a wiring diagram on the switches, it is on the Facebook Page File section. Check out the Facebook Page Ruff and Tuff Electric Vehicles I am an admin trying to figure out how to add you. Try friending me Heyward Mattox on FB there is a picture of me and my Grandchildren on the page then I can add you. As far as the speed problem, as I stated before I am using am old 2 wire I got from a junked 2 wd 6 seater RnT it has a different controller. The fault code 1-2 went away when I installed the 2 wire sensor. I had two do some retiring, I disconnected the wire to pin 14 it is the ground and is not needed with a 2 wire I just unhooked it and left the wire in the box in case I go back to the 3 wire. I disconnected the wire from the emergency brake to the sensor which carried 48 volts l left it in the box as well. I left the wire from Pin 15 which caries the return voltage back to the controller. I added a wire from Pin 13 to the sensor, I had to add a pin to the molex connector. Repining the molex is another issue. Pin 13 sends input voltage which is 14-16 volts to the sensor. To clarify the 2 wire is connected to Pin 13 and Pin 15.
My new friend Mr. Derrick, the golf cart mechanic owns a couple Ruff Tuffs and is friends with the folks at RT Gear in Columbia, SC. He is learning with me so he only charges for the parts. The 2 wire I used is old and it may not be a proper match, I am not sure if they are all the same as far as the voltage reduction. But my fault is gone. I am going back to see Mr. Derrick next week he has a new 3 wire and a new 2 wire, we plan to put the 3 wire back on just to see if the fault returns, I think I will probably put a new 2 wire back on and leave it, it is cheaper and actually it is what the controller specifies. I spoke to Tech Support at Curtis before hooking it up.
The 3 wire has burned up 3 controllers because of the high voltage input and out to the controller. I think with a new properly sized 2 wire sensor and reprogramming I should get my speed back.
Another issue I am working on is when I barely push the accelerator just enough to engage the motor it sometimes will loose power for a second. Mr. Derrick mentioned this to RT Gear and they told him not to go extremely slow it could damage the controller. You can change the accelerating and deceleration by changing the parameters with the hand held, so we will work on that as well. My wife tells me Junk the cart and buy a name brand cart but I really like the cart and enjoy working on it. I still would like to find a used hand held programmer if I can find one at a decent price. I saw the one on EBAY $40 month rental, I may try one. Just thought of another question you may be able to answer; the emergency brake has 3 wires going in one is full pack voltage and the other two is the switch I think. Not sure why you need 3 wires, instead of 2 one wire out sends pack voltage to the micro switch and the sensor ( I disconnected the wire to sensor) which then goes to the controller. The guy at RT Gear told me when I first started having problems to change the incoming power wire from the brake to put power on the sensor when the brake is released and not through the micro switch. In other words when the brake is released the power should go to the input side of the switch and the sensor at the same time. According to RT Gear if the sensor is energized from the outlet side of the switch a fault will appear and disappear when the cart is moving. Not the case with me.
Until next time thanks.
Heyward
The four wheel drive system will eventually give you a problem, i don't think it was ever perfected. I have a wiring diagram on the switches, it is on the Facebook Page File section. Check out the Facebook Page Ruff and Tuff Electric Vehicles I am an admin trying to figure out how to add you. Try friending me Heyward Mattox on FB there is a picture of me and my Grandchildren on the page then I can add you. As far as the speed problem, as I stated before I am using am old 2 wire I got from a junked 2 wd 6 seater RnT it has a different controller. The fault code 1-2 went away when I installed the 2 wire sensor. I had two do some retiring, I disconnected the wire to pin 14 it is the ground and is not needed with a 2 wire I just unhooked it and left the wire in the box in case I go back to the 3 wire. I disconnected the wire from the emergency brake to the sensor which carried 48 volts l left it in the box as well. I left the wire from Pin 15 which caries the return voltage back to the controller. I added a wire from Pin 13 to the sensor, I had to add a pin to the molex connector. Repining the molex is another issue. Pin 13 sends input voltage which is 14-16 volts to the sensor. To clarify the 2 wire is connected to Pin 13 and Pin 15.
My new friend Mr. Derrick, the golf cart mechanic owns a couple Ruff Tuffs and is friends with the folks at RT Gear in Columbia, SC. He is learning with me so he only charges for the parts. The 2 wire I used is old and it may not be a proper match, I am not sure if they are all the same as far as the voltage reduction. But my fault is gone. I am going back to see Mr. Derrick next week he has a new 3 wire and a new 2 wire, we plan to put the 3 wire back on just to see if the fault returns, I think I will probably put a new 2 wire back on and leave it, it is cheaper and actually it is what the controller specifies. I spoke to Tech Support at Curtis before hooking it up.
The 3 wire has burned up 3 controllers because of the high voltage input and out to the controller. I think with a new properly sized 2 wire sensor and reprogramming I should get my speed back.
Another issue I am working on is when I barely push the accelerator just enough to engage the motor it sometimes will loose power for a second. Mr. Derrick mentioned this to RT Gear and they told him not to go extremely slow it could damage the controller. You can change the accelerating and deceleration by changing the parameters with the hand held, so we will work on that as well. My wife tells me Junk the cart and buy a name brand cart but I really like the cart and enjoy working on it. I still would like to find a used hand held programmer if I can find one at a decent price. I saw the one on EBAY $40 month rental, I may try one. Just thought of another question you may be able to answer; the emergency brake has 3 wires going in one is full pack voltage and the other two is the switch I think. Not sure why you need 3 wires, instead of 2 one wire out sends pack voltage to the micro switch and the sensor ( I disconnected the wire to sensor) which then goes to the controller. The guy at RT Gear told me when I first started having problems to change the incoming power wire from the brake to put power on the sensor when the brake is released and not through the micro switch. In other words when the brake is released the power should go to the input side of the switch and the sensor at the same time. According to RT Gear if the sensor is energized from the outlet side of the switch a fault will appear and disappear when the cart is moving. Not the case with me.
Until next time thanks.
Heyward