Issues with 2007 Western 400 36 volt cart

Linguolizzard

New Member
Hello All,
My question is… how do I diagnose cart issue ?. Runs fine on flat surface, vibrates excessively and slows to near stop on small hilly road along with burning smell. Batteries from 2018.
Details below.

I recently purchased a 2007 36 volt western 400 From what I am now calling the shister used golf cart lot. It was sold to me with the understanding it was in perfect working order and sold “as is”.
Test drove it in thier lot and it ran fine and felt decent.
Took it home, charged overnight. Went to drive next day and up a slightly hilly road it started to vibrate and then speed dropped to near stop. Was barley able to get it back home after less than a 1/4 mile trip. It would not even go up the driveway.
I have been trying to find out how to diagnose the problem as well as find out what parts are compatible. I’m stumped because online everything tells you what to do when cart won’t start. But nothing about the cart runs fine until it tries to go uphill and then starts to fail. It also had an electronic burning smell. Not like sulfur.
Also can’t find any info about western carts, like what motors are compatible. What speed controller, ect ect.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I feel like I got ripped off and the lot basically ignored my calls and e-mails then told me it was sold “as is” and pretty much hung up on me. Now I have this cart I can’t even drive and I am bummed out. Repair shop wants 100 bucks just to look at it. Then 150 an hour plus parts to repair it. Don’t have that money.
 

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HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
I'd start with load testing the batteries. As far as the burning take the cart for a ride and feel around under the seat to find what is getting hot.
 

Linguolizzard

New Member
Would you be able to explain what I need to set my volt meter at to properly test? And how to single out a specific battery that may or may not be bad. I gave myself quite a good zap and fried my last tester while checking an outlet after watching you tube to get the settings.
And the thing with the toggle switch between tow and go was warm to touch after last time.
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Set your meter to DC volts. You can connect the meter to one battery at a time without unhooking any cables to test individual batteries.
 

Rstaley

Cartaholic
I think that you still need to check the batteries UNDER A LOAAD. Put your meter (on DC voltage scale) across the whole pack (where you measured the 37.1 volts) and try to drive the cart while observing the meter (rig it up to where you can see the meter while driving the cart). You could easily have a battery “falling out” under a load (they can drive you nuts). If the voltage drops (under the load) down in the low 30’s (or even lower), that may be your problem. Most of the controllers have a “low voltage” protection feature, where they will stop working (at least correctly) when a low volage threshold is hit. Give it a try. Good luck, Ron.
 

Linguolizzard

New Member
Would it work if I propped up back end on some jacks and just hit the pedal? Or does it need the weight of the cart on the batteries?
 

Linguolizzard

New Member
Ok, decided to purchase new battery cables since cart had 6 gauge cables. When I went to take them off so I could measure them for my new cable lengths I found this. The one that’s melted is going to what I believe is the motor. The one next to it was the black (negative) battery cable. Tried looking up the part number and it is no longer made. Question, I’ve yet to take the motor off yet but I have notice a controller motor combo is cheaper than buying both Separate. If I buy a new motor and controller would I need to change anything with the throttle or F N R switch? Or anything else?
What would cause this to heat up like this?
4240C0AD-0A3E-467D-A5BB-A8F4B059193A.jpeg
 
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