NEVERSATISFIED
New Member
I customized my Club Car DS gas golf cart and i am looking to turn it up so it goes faster. I know how to turn it up under the control box but thats it any ideas???
How to Turn Up Club Car Gas to Go Faster
- Thread starter NEVERSATISFIED
- Start date
NEVERSATISFIED
New Member
it is a 1996 clubcar gas ds model thanks
wass1967
New Member
What are you exactly looking for? Better take off, quicker acceleration? Higher speeds? Are you willing to risk damaging the engine? If so, you came to the right place. I will tell you right now, any modifications you do, will risk running into big problems down the road.
First thing I tell everyone. BUY A TACH!!! Carts Parts Plus has the tiny tach you need. Easy hook up and valuable engine saver if you follow the golden rule. Keep your RPMS between 4200-4400. This is considered the safe "MAX" rpm you can run.
1. How far down does your gas pedal go before the starter engages? If more than 1", you need to adjust the throttle rod under the cart. It s the rod that connects the gas pedal to the black box. Loosen the nut on either end. Pull back on the spring tension part to release it from the ball. Unscrew it a few turns and pop it back on. Trial and error will get you to its perfect setting. Then tighten the nut up.
2. You will need to look at the carb closely on this one. First, remove the cover of the black box. Loosen the 10mm nut on the throttle cable. Run some cable in the box to give it slack. Now, look for the screw that is on the carb that will move the butterfly. Screw it in or out till the carb is just closed in a relaxed position. Now, start bringing cable out of the box till it just starts to move the butterfly. Back it off a tad. This now set your throttle cable. Tighten the 10mm nut.
With these adjustments, you should just barely touch the gas pedal and it should start up and just barely be running. A little more gas and cart should move. If not, re adjust with step 2 again. This should give you much quicker take offs and acceleration.
(sometimes after these adjustments I have to slightly bend the micro switch arms to get it to shut off or turn on when I need it. This takes a lot of patiences to set them just right. So be careful)
3. Install your tach on the dash somewhere. The cable is long enough to go under the cart and reach the coil wire. White wire under a any bolt of the engine. Red wire wraps tightly around the coil wire.
4.Governor removal. Follow throttle cable from black box to governor arm of tranny. You can access this through the black access panel behind the seat. Loosen the nut/bolt that clamps the arm to the shaft coming out of the tranny. Once loose, use a flat blade screwdriver to pry apart slightly. Just till it moves freely on the shaft. DO NOT TIGHTEN. Thios will not fall off. Trust me. Been driving for 3 years now and it has never come off yet. Your governor is now dis abled.
5. With the governor disabled you are now in danger of bouncing off the rpm limiter. What this does is grounds out the coil if rpms go over 3700-3900 rpms. Then won't let it start up till it drops to about 3200-3400rpm. and if your foot was on the gas, when it does start.... BANG!! Back fire. this can damage the engine. So, we need to take it out of service. To do this, you may need a mirror to see where it is. It is in the front of the engine all the way to the bottom. There is a small black box with some wires coming out. You need to find the brown(I think) wire and follow it to the ground bolt. You need to remove that 10mm bolt and pull the ground wire off the bolt. Replace bolt. Tape up the ground wire so it can not ground out. This takes care of the RPM limiter.
That is it, you are now optimally adjusted and are offically ready to blow up your engine. I am suprised I never did. I ran mine constantly past 5000rpms but only for short burst. 1/2 mile or less. Now with HS gears, It barely reaches 4300rpms. You may have to go to step 2 again once the governor arm is free. It sometimes put slack back in the cable.
First thing I tell everyone. BUY A TACH!!! Carts Parts Plus has the tiny tach you need. Easy hook up and valuable engine saver if you follow the golden rule. Keep your RPMS between 4200-4400. This is considered the safe "MAX" rpm you can run.
1. How far down does your gas pedal go before the starter engages? If more than 1", you need to adjust the throttle rod under the cart. It s the rod that connects the gas pedal to the black box. Loosen the nut on either end. Pull back on the spring tension part to release it from the ball. Unscrew it a few turns and pop it back on. Trial and error will get you to its perfect setting. Then tighten the nut up.
2. You will need to look at the carb closely on this one. First, remove the cover of the black box. Loosen the 10mm nut on the throttle cable. Run some cable in the box to give it slack. Now, look for the screw that is on the carb that will move the butterfly. Screw it in or out till the carb is just closed in a relaxed position. Now, start bringing cable out of the box till it just starts to move the butterfly. Back it off a tad. This now set your throttle cable. Tighten the 10mm nut.
With these adjustments, you should just barely touch the gas pedal and it should start up and just barely be running. A little more gas and cart should move. If not, re adjust with step 2 again. This should give you much quicker take offs and acceleration.
(sometimes after these adjustments I have to slightly bend the micro switch arms to get it to shut off or turn on when I need it. This takes a lot of patiences to set them just right. So be careful)
3. Install your tach on the dash somewhere. The cable is long enough to go under the cart and reach the coil wire. White wire under a any bolt of the engine. Red wire wraps tightly around the coil wire.
4.Governor removal. Follow throttle cable from black box to governor arm of tranny. You can access this through the black access panel behind the seat. Loosen the nut/bolt that clamps the arm to the shaft coming out of the tranny. Once loose, use a flat blade screwdriver to pry apart slightly. Just till it moves freely on the shaft. DO NOT TIGHTEN. Thios will not fall off. Trust me. Been driving for 3 years now and it has never come off yet. Your governor is now dis abled.
5. With the governor disabled you are now in danger of bouncing off the rpm limiter. What this does is grounds out the coil if rpms go over 3700-3900 rpms. Then won't let it start up till it drops to about 3200-3400rpm. and if your foot was on the gas, when it does start.... BANG!! Back fire. this can damage the engine. So, we need to take it out of service. To do this, you may need a mirror to see where it is. It is in the front of the engine all the way to the bottom. There is a small black box with some wires coming out. You need to find the brown(I think) wire and follow it to the ground bolt. You need to remove that 10mm bolt and pull the ground wire off the bolt. Replace bolt. Tape up the ground wire so it can not ground out. This takes care of the RPM limiter.
That is it, you are now optimally adjusted and are offically ready to blow up your engine. I am suprised I never did. I ran mine constantly past 5000rpms but only for short burst. 1/2 mile or less. Now with HS gears, It barely reaches 4300rpms. You may have to go to step 2 again once the governor arm is free. It sometimes put slack back in the cable.
NEVERSATISFIED
New Member
hello again,i am just looking for more speed when i need it when trying to catch someone in the campground dont need it all the time+no i dont want to blow my engine please let me know what is the best idea thanks for responding 
wass1967
New Member
1 mircro switch release the ground to the coil and the other is the relay to the silinoid. Basicly you want the ground to be off first, the the silonoid to kick the starter at the same time the carb starts to open for a low idle. My cart starts and idles and I can switch gears fast enough not to stall the cart. Cause neutral sends a ground to the coil. (safty) So the carb adjustment should make the butterfly closed till the gas pedal is depressed. But cart should start right away. You don't want to be pushing the pedal down more than an inch before it starts. Closer the adjustment, the more you know the carb will open all the way.
The rev limiter wire is brown.Got the tach on today. It's a tach/hourmeter combo. Live all the time. With the engine off it shows hours run since tach install. It only counts revs when sparks fly, every other one so the rev count is 1/2 actual. 2000 is really 4000 etc. With 5 psi in the tires it will pull about 4600. Pump 'em up to 18 psi and it'll hit 5200 easy. Gonna give it new oil and filters before I beat on it too much. Wonder where valve float is?
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
4200-4400 RPM is safe on a stock club car engine. Anything over that on a regular basis will lead to problems sooner or later.
Hello, I just found this site and I see there is a ton of good info on it. I just bought an 84 Club Car and I was wondering if the info you guys gave for the 96 in this post would be the same for mine.
I bought this cart cuz it's in really great shape and it runs well. I wanna lift it, and I'm looking for better off the line power. I'll be going up some steep inclines and want to get all the power I can out of this little engine. Please help me out. Thanks
I bought this cart cuz it's in really great shape and it runs well. I wanna lift it, and I'm looking for better off the line power. I'll be going up some steep inclines and want to get all the power I can out of this little engine. Please help me out. Thanks
Fed it a quart and a half of Mobil 1 15/50 and a new filter.
Excellent luck with that stuff on my air cooled motorcycles so I expect it will continue here. Red line on those is between 9 and 10 K, and they see it once in awhile as well. Gotta keep the dust out.
Thanks for all the good info
Excellent luck with that stuff on my air cooled motorcycles so I expect it will continue here. Red line on those is between 9 and 10 K, and they see it once in awhile as well. Gotta keep the dust out.
Thanks for all the good info
ezgoclubmember
New Member
I was reading your suggestion on turning up the speed on the club car, we just bought two 03 and the cart is so slow wont keep up with anyone! is there a way you can do this safely so if someone else would drive the cart they can't blow up the motor?
There's got to be something you can put in place of the Rev. limiter, that would stop you at the max rpms of 4500 if this is the safe rmps, please help me out?
We are going to try adjusting the pedal and the throttle, but if this isn't enough at that point we don't want to diconnect the rev. limiter, for fear someone else would want to see how fast it will go even though we ask them not to run it past 4500, they wont care it is not there cart! and we don't want to take the chance. Please help us out. thanks
There's got to be something you can put in place of the Rev. limiter, that would stop you at the max rpms of 4500 if this is the safe rmps, please help me out?
We are going to try adjusting the pedal and the throttle, but if this isn't enough at that point we don't want to diconnect the rev. limiter, for fear someone else would want to see how fast it will go even though we ask them not to run it past 4500, they wont care it is not there cart! and we don't want to take the chance. Please help us out. thanks
First thing I tell everyone. BUY A TACH!!! Carts Parts Plus has the tiny tach you need. Easy hook up and valuable engine saver if you follow the golden rule. Keep your RPMS between 4200-4400. This is considered the safe "MAX" rpm you can run.
1. How far down does your gas pedal go before the starter engages? If more than 1", you need to adjust the throttle rod under the cart. It s the rod that connects the gas pedal to the black box. Loosen the nut on either end. Pull back on the spring tension part to release it from the ball. Unscrew it a few turns and pop it back on. Trial and error will get you to its perfect setting. Then tighten the nut up.
2. You will need to look at the carb closely on this one. First, remove the cover of the black box. Loosen the 10mm nut on the throttle cable. Run some cable in the box to give it slack. Now, look for the screw that is on the carb that will move the butterfly. Screw it in or out till the carb is just closed in a relaxed position. Now, start bringing cable out of the box till it just starts to move the butterfly. Back it off a tad. This now set your throttle cable. Tighten the 10mm nut.
With these adjustments, you should just barely touch the gas pedal and it should start up and just barely be running. A little more gas and cart should move. If not, re adjust with step 2 again. This should give you much quicker take offs and acceleration.
(sometimes after these adjustments I have to slightly bend the micro switch arms to get it to shut off or turn on when I need it. This takes a lot of patiences to set them just right. So be careful)
3. Install your tach on the dash somewhere. The cable is long enough to go under the cart and reach the coil wire. White wire under a any bolt of the engine. Red wire wraps tightly around the coil wire.
4.Governor removal. Follow throttle cable from black box to governor arm of tranny. You can access this through the black access panel behind the seat. Loosen the nut/bolt that clamps the arm to the shaft coming out of the tranny. Once loose, use a flat blade screwdriver to pry apart slightly. Just till it moves freely on the shaft. DO NOT TIGHTEN. Thios will not fall off. Trust me. Been driving for 3 years now and it has never come off yet. Your governor is now dis abled.
5. With the governor disabled you are now in danger of bouncing off the rpm limiter. What this does is grounds out the coil if rpms go over 3700-3900 rpms. Then won't let it start up till it drops to about 3200-3400rpm. and if your foot was on the gas, when it does start.... BANG!! Back fire. this can damage the engine. So, we need to take it out of service. To do this, you may need a mirror to see where it is. It is in the front of the engine all the way to the bottom. There is a small black box with some wires coming out. You need to find the brown(I think) wire and follow it to the ground bolt. You need to remove that 10mm bolt and pull the ground wire off the bolt. Replace bolt. Tape up the ground wire so it can not ground out. This takes care of the RPM limiter.
That is it, you are now optimally adjusted and are offically ready to blow up your engine. I am suprised I never did. I ran mine constantly past 5000rpms but only for short burst. 1/2 mile or less. Now with HS gears, It barely reaches 4300rpms. You may have to go to step 2 again once the governor arm is free. It sometimes put slack back in the cable.
She's a lot quicker now. The rev limiter wire is brown.
Got the tach on today. It's a tach/hourmeter combo. Live all the time. With the engine off it shows hours run since tach install. It only counts revs when sparks fly, every other one so the rev count is 1/2 actual. 2000 is really 4000 etc. With 5 psi in the tires it will pull about 4600. Pump 'em up to 18 psi and it'll hit 5200 easy. Gonna give it new oil and filters before I beat on it too much.
Wonder where valve float is?
A couple of updates. The cart ran fine all last year. I left here in Florida for Michigan in April. The wife stayed here and worked for the Census bureau. She called one day and said the cart just quit. Got back here in October, and started messing with it. No starter action at all. Figured it was the solenoid. Jumped the battery and starter terminals with a screwdriver. Shoulda got a big spark and had the engine turn over. Got damn little spark and no rotation. Screwdriver was clean. So I pulled the starter/generator, put it on the bench, pulled the rubber plugs out of the back to check the brushes. Lots of black carbon dust poured out, This don't look good. Disassembled it. Commutator is destroyed. Bars blown right off of it. Copper toasted. Go online and find new ones for in the neighborhood of $450. New armatures $265. While I was looking an E Bay add popped up, went there and found a new one for $100 plus shipping. Total here to Florida was $126. Put that puppy on and had it up and running in short order. Limiting the revs to about 4000 now, hope the new one lives.
1. How far down does your gas pedal go before the starter engages? If more than 1", you need to adjust the throttle rod under the cart. It s the rod that connects the gas pedal to the black box. Loosen the nut on either end. Pull back on the spring tension part to release it from the ball. Unscrew it a few turns and pop it back on. Trial and error will get you to its perfect setting. Then tighten the nut up.
2. You will need to look at the carb closely on this one. First, remove the cover of the black box. Loosen the 10mm nut on the throttle cable. Run some cable in the box to give it slack. Now, look for the screw that is on the carb that will move the butterfly. Screw it in or out till the carb is just closed in a relaxed position. Now, start bringing cable out of the box till it just starts to move the butterfly. Back it off a tad. This now set your throttle cable. Tighten the 10mm nut.
With these adjustments, you should just barely touch the gas pedal and it should start up and just barely be running. A little more gas and cart should move. If not, re adjust with step 2 again. This should give you much quicker take offs and acceleration.
(sometimes after these adjustments I have to slightly bend the micro switch arms to get it to shut off or turn on when I need it. This takes a lot of patiences to set them just right. So be careful)
3. Install your tach on the dash somewhere. The cable is long enough to go under the cart and reach the coil wire. White wire under a any bolt of the engine. Red wire wraps tightly around the coil wire.
4.Governor removal. Follow throttle cable from black box to governor arm of tranny. You can access this through the black access panel behind the seat. Loosen the nut/bolt that clamps the arm to the shaft coming out of the tranny. Once loose, use a flat blade screwdriver to pry apart slightly. Just till it moves freely on the shaft. DO NOT TIGHTEN. Thios will not fall off. Trust me. Been driving for 3 years now and it has never come off yet. Your governor is now dis abled.
5. With the governor disabled you are now in danger of bouncing off the rpm limiter. What this does is grounds out the coil if rpms go over 3700-3900 rpms. Then won't let it start up till it drops to about 3200-3400rpm. and if your foot was on the gas, when it does start.... BANG!! Back fire. this can damage the engine. So, we need to take it out of service. To do this, you may need a mirror to see where it is. It is in the front of the engine all the way to the bottom. There is a small black box with some wires coming out. You need to find the brown(I think) wire and follow it to the ground bolt. You need to remove that 10mm bolt and pull the ground wire off the bolt. Replace bolt. Tape up the ground wire so it can not ground out. This takes care of the RPM limiter.
That is it, you are now optimally adjusted and are offically ready to blow up your engine. I am suprised I never did. I ran mine constantly past 5000rpms but only for short burst. 1/2 mile or less. Now with HS gears, It barely reaches 4300rpms. You may have to go to step 2 again once the governor arm is free. It sometimes put slack back in the cable.
She's a lot quicker now. The rev limiter wire is brown.
Got the tach on today. It's a tach/hourmeter combo. Live all the time. With the engine off it shows hours run since tach install. It only counts revs when sparks fly, every other one so the rev count is 1/2 actual. 2000 is really 4000 etc. With 5 psi in the tires it will pull about 4600. Pump 'em up to 18 psi and it'll hit 5200 easy. Gonna give it new oil and filters before I beat on it too much.
Wonder where valve float is?
A couple of updates. The cart ran fine all last year. I left here in Florida for Michigan in April. The wife stayed here and worked for the Census bureau. She called one day and said the cart just quit. Got back here in October, and started messing with it. No starter action at all. Figured it was the solenoid. Jumped the battery and starter terminals with a screwdriver. Shoulda got a big spark and had the engine turn over. Got damn little spark and no rotation. Screwdriver was clean. So I pulled the starter/generator, put it on the bench, pulled the rubber plugs out of the back to check the brushes. Lots of black carbon dust poured out, This don't look good. Disassembled it. Commutator is destroyed. Bars blown right off of it. Copper toasted. Go online and find new ones for in the neighborhood of $450. New armatures $265. While I was looking an E Bay add popped up, went there and found a new one for $100 plus shipping. Total here to Florida was $126. Put that puppy on and had it up and running in short order. Limiting the revs to about 4000 now, hope the new one lives.
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Good deal on the starter!! What brand is it?
No brand name on it. The original was by Mando Machinery out of Korea. I don't recall seeing name on this one but IIRC it came from Big Jake's in Chicago. Found them on Ebay. Looked identical to what came off. The only difference that I could see was that the original one had two long through bolts holding it together and this one has four short ones, two in from the front and two in from the back.
I'll see if I can see more and get back. The cart's down again. Looks like a fuel pump. Thought sure it was electrical due to the way it failed, just quit, not a pop or anything. Just off. Pulled a plug today and it showed a spark. Pulled the carb drain and got nothing. Found LVS sales has rebuild kits for $15.00. That's where I'll be going once I verify that the pump is defective.
Football time...............Later
I'll see if I can see more and get back. The cart's down again. Looks like a fuel pump. Thought sure it was electrical due to the way it failed, just quit, not a pop or anything. Just off. Pulled a plug today and it showed a spark. Pulled the carb drain and got nothing. Found LVS sales has rebuild kits for $15.00. That's where I'll be going once I verify that the pump is defective.
Football time...............Later