How Do I Adjust The Governor On My Club Car

michial71

New Member
How do I adjust the governor on my 1994 club car golf cart? Or what can i do to make run faster? It's really slow now. thanks
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Welcome to the forum...

Take a look at this post. It explains in detail how to adjust a Club Car governor...

First thing I tell everyone. BUY A TACH!!! Carts Parts Plus has the tiny tach you need. Easy hook up and valuable engine saver if you follow the golden rule. Keep your RPMS between 4200-4400. This is considered the safe "MAX" rpm you can run.


1. How far down does your gas pedal go before the starter engages? If more than 1", you need to adjust the throttle rod under the cart. It s the rod that connects the gas pedal to the black box. Loosen the nut on either end. Pull back on the spring tension part to release it from the ball. Unscrew it a few turns and pop it back on. Trial and error will get you to its perfect setting. Then tighten the nut up.

2. You will need to look at the carb closely on this one. First, remove the cover of the black box. Loosen the 10mm nut on the throttle cable. Run some cable in the box to give it slack. Now, look for the screw that is on the carb that will move the butterfly. Screw it in or out till the carb is just closed in a relaxed position. Now, start bringing cable out of the box till it just starts to move the butterfly. Back it off a tad. This now set your throttle cable. Tighten the 10mm nut.

With these adjustments, you should just barely touch the gas pedal and it should start up and just barely be running. A little more gas and cart should move. If not, re adjust with step 2 again. This should give you much quicker take offs and acceleration.

(sometimes after these adjustments I have to slightly bend the micro switch arms to get it to shut off or turn on when I need it. This takes a lot of patiences to set them just right. So be careful)

3. Install your tach on the dash somewhere. The cable is long enough to go under the cart and reach the coil wire. White wire under a any bolt of the engine. Red wire wraps tightly around the coil wire.

4.Governor removal. Follow throttle cable from black box to governor arm of tranny. You can access this through the black access panel behind the seat. Loosen the nut/bolt that clamps the arm to the shaft coming out of the tranny. Once loose, use a flat blade screwdriver to pry apart slightly. Just till it moves freely on the shaft. DO NOT TIGHTEN. Thios will not fall off. Trust me. Been driving for 3 years now and it has never come off yet. Your governor is now dis abled.

5. With the governor disabled you are now in danger of bouncing off the rpm limiter. What this does is grounds out the coil if rpms go over 3700-3900 rpms. Then won't let it start up till it drops to about 3200-3400rpm. and if your foot was on the gas, when it does start.... BANG!! Back fire. this can damage the engine. So, we need to take it out of service. To do this, you may need a mirror to see where it is. It is in the front of the engine all the way to the bottom. There is a small black box with some wires coming out. You need to find the brown(I think) wire and follow it to the ground bolt. You need to remove that 10mm bolt and pull the ground wire off the bolt. Replace bolt. Tape up the ground wire so it can not ground out. This takes care of the RPM limiter.

That is it, you are now optimally adjusted and are offically ready to blow up your engine. I am suprised I never did. I ran mine constantly past 5000rpms but only for short burst. 1/2 mile or less. Now with HS gears, It barely reaches 4300rpms. You may have to go to step 2 again once the governor arm is free. It sometimes put slack back in the cable.
She's a lot quicker now. The rev limiter wire is brown.
Got the tach on today. It's a tach/hourmeter combo. Live all the time. With the engine off it shows hours run since tach install. It only counts revs when sparks fly, every other one so the rev count is 1/2 actual. 2000 is really 4000 etc. With 5 psi in the tires it will pull about 4600. Pump 'em up to 18 psi and it'll hit 5200 easy. Gonna give it new oil and filters before I beat on it too much.
Wonder where valve float is?

A couple of updates. The cart ran fine all last year. I left here in Florida for Michigan in April. The wife stayed here and worked for the Census bureau. She called one day and said the cart just quit. Got back here in October, and started messing with it. No starter action at all. Figured it was the solenoid. Jumped the battery and starter terminals with a screwdriver. Shoulda got a big spark and had the engine turn over. Got damn little spark and no rotation. Screwdriver was clean. So I pulled the starter/generator, put it on the bench, pulled the rubber plugs out of the back to check the brushes. Lots of black carbon dust poured out, This don't look good. Disassembled it. Commutator is destroyed. Bars blown right off of it. Copper toasted. Go online and find new ones for in the neighborhood of $450. New armatures $265. While I was looking an E Bay add popped up, went there and found a new one for $100 plus shipping. Total here to Florida was $126. Put that puppy on and had it up and running in short order. Limiting the revs to about 4000 now, hope the new one lives.
 
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