This is just my opinion but the club car gas engine is very sensitive to air. A loose air box cover will make them run rough and a dirty filter will too. So if you add more fuel, it will run rough without adding more air some how. Just my opinion. I was thinking of doing the same. Haven't figured out how to add the air it will need.
I would think a loose cover would make it run lean whereas a dirty filter would make it rich like haveing the choke on. Guess it would be an experiment. Thought maybe someone had already tried it. Perhaps a separate filter mounted on the carb along with the jets?
I played with my CC on the dyno the other day, A/F was perfect 13:1 with everything in place (clean filter). We tried a run with the inlet off the carb, and a/f went badly lean like 15:1 and it wouldn't hardly run. So I tried just removing the air filter, about the same results. 14.6:1 without the air filter.
Like Jerry said, they are very sensitive to air tract changes. If I knew crap about carbs I would of played with it. I'm a EFI guy (started with an efi mustang in 1990, never messed with carbs). Hmm wonder I could adapt a fuel injector to this thing lol j/k
I came up in the 70s so carbs are nothing new here. For reference, the kits they sell for Harley carb models basically richen the mixture in combination with a freer flowing air filter setup. From your dyno results it is obvious the air box is restricting the airflow hense the lean mix with it off. Stands to reason that if you richened the carb you would then need to increase the airflow. Basic principle of making power is more fuel & air in = more power out. The stock airbox is probably designed to make it run quieter.
So, I need to change its jets and I can fix the air path then. Yeah, it's way restrictive. It goes down under the cart, all the way to the front to a snorkel type setup under the front cowl. Only made 4.8 rwhp 7 tq hehe. The ez-go we tried made 5.0 rwhp (5.8 when we put a fan in front of the air box lol).
Mines a 96 so the box is under the seat but still has about a foot of corrugated hose connecting. Some sort of K&N filter like for a raceing go-cart would be neat. Same concept as the cold air systems sold for the custom compact crowd. Would be nice to play with it on a dyno to verify the results. BTW, I was referenceing the kit for a Harley Motorcycle not a cart.
Yes, good point. Same thing with the airbox. The mufflers are made to make em real quiet. The way I use mine I'd sacrifice some sound for a couple horses. Be interesting to see what could be done with the stock motors. Personally, I can't justify the cost of an engine upgrade but it would be neat to get some more out of the stock motor with some tweaking.
Sounds like we have the same mindset about what we are looking for. I don't really want to spend the $$ on a engine swap either. And have been searching the net for ways to tweak the stock fe290. I also want to keep it quiet and a pedal start. I've considered sending the head out to that place that can port/polish/shave the head for more power. But then the logical side kicks in and says "Don't screw with it, till it breaks!". If/when this motor needs a rebuild I'll do the bigger piston and port work. I have some friends running Jr. Dragsters and have been looking at those engines for ideas on power increases.
I would suggest clutch work and power springs. I have my daughters Club Car lifted 4" with 23" all trails. Front clutch was machined to make the belt come out at the top a little. Put a Cart Parts Plus torque spring in it. Driven clutch has been machined by Dixie sales and has the BU torque spring. It takes off FAST and gets up to 27 quickly. A long run will see 30mph. I like the set up. The engine has been bored out 50mm and the head milled 50thousands. But its all stock carb and muffler. The key is clutch work.
It was only a sluggish 26-27mph cart before.
Safe rpm for these engines is 4200-4400. @ 30mph, its running 4500rpm. Not bad. Before at 27mph it was running over 5100rpms. I feel better about the rpms. I have been up over 5000 more times than I care to remember. Now I feel much safer and the engine will last.
Thanks, Do you know the details on the clutch machineing? I have a friend with a machine shop so I could get it done here instead of shipping my clutch out if I knew how much to take off. I assume doing the frt gives more speed and the rear gives more torque.
Not sure on how much we took off. We did have to make an extra thrust bearing to add to the stock one so it would close all the way. Its just something you got to play with. I would get the springs first and see what you think before you start milling on the clutches. Another thing is, if you have a 97 and newer, it won't help. Engine alignment made a difference. I had to slide the engine back a little so the belt would ride out of the clutch.
Thanks, I have a 96. My buddies have snowmobiles and I remember them playing with the clutching quite a bit. Changeing wieghts, ramps ect. They buy new ones every year or so now and it seems they must come pretty well dialed in from the factory. I'll try the spring first and have a look at the sheeves while I have it apart.