Help to Identify EZGO Golf Cart

bogman

Member
A buddy of mine is trying to figure out what's wrong with his old EZGO golf cart and I got him to send me his serial number. SN #449960 Manuf. # 112787

Can anybody help identify what year and what type cart it is or maybe help me go to a manual with a wiring diagram? Thanks for any help.
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
I believe it would be a 87 Marathon. Does it have a metal body? There should be a wiring diagram for it in the EZGO Resources section of the forum.
 

bogman

Member
Thanks HRC , I went and looked at the numbers myself and the eleven in the manuf. # he gave me I believe is actually an H. And it is a fiberglass body. It is a 36v cart with 3 batteries on each side with a space in the middle where a resister coil is with 4 wires attached on top of a solid bar of metal. The problem he's having is the second post from the back of the coil is getting red hot after just a short drive. Any ideas ?
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
If it has 3 batteries on each side it's a EZGO Marathon chassis which came from the factory with a metal body. Someone at some point changed the body on the golf cart if it's plastic. As far as the post the resistor coil is connected to getting red hot it could be a couple things causing it. You need to make sure ALL the resistor coil connections and cables are good. Check the coil to make sure it isn't broken. The resistor coils will get red hot if the golf cart is driven at slow speeds.
 

bogman

Member
That's exactly what I suggested he do, I remember you or Diode saying something to the effect that carts with resister coils need to be driven wide open so the coils don't get too hot. I'll let you know what he finds when he takes the coil off to inspect it. And by the way, I didn't actually thump the body to see what it was made of, I just assumed it was plastic.
 

bogman

Member
You see, we do listen to you experts. The reason that stuck with me is because my '03 club car DS has resister coils. And now I know why running wide open keeps the coils cool, you're actually going from the first post where the coil starts straight to the last post at the end of the coil by way of the piece of metal that connects them all, thereby bypassing the coil altogether. Thanks for that info Diode.
 

bogman

Member
He finally got around to pulling off the coil and I went by and took a couple of pic's. What I thought was a strip of metal is actually a piece of fiberglass board. It is damaged from the heat in the 2 middle holes. He cleaned up the coil and it looks okay. He took the 2 end bolts, cleaned them up and put them in the 2 middle positions on the coil. The 2nd bolt from the back was badly burnt and will have to be replaced. I put a magnet on the bolts and they proved to be non ferrous. Maybe brass? Can he replace it with a steel bolt? Can he order a replacement fiberboard?

Coil1.jpg Coil2.jpg



 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Yes you can buy the resistor board, coils and bolts separately. If you're not going to use original replacement bolts maybe stainless steel bolts, nuts and washers would handle the heat better.
 

bogman

Member
Thanks for the info. He had already purchased a couple of high heat stainless steel bolts, I just wondered if they needed to be brass. I'll do a google search for the resistor board now that I know that's what its called.;)
 
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