Have you scene anything like this!?!? Used EZGO TXT wiring nightmare!

Jazco

New Member
Sorry but I'm not an expert and electronics scares and confuses me so bear with me as I know I sound like a bumbling idiot.

So I bought a cheap used EZGO TXT that has been heavily modified I guess. I've been tinkering with a few things and was trying to figure out how it's wired. As I dug around, I found many things that I just can't explain what the hell is going on!

First, there appears to be an entire wiring harness that is mostly unused... It's there, just only one "branch" is being used, not sure what the wires are for. There is another harness running on the opposite side straight to the controller that is actually used.

Second, somebody removed the 36v / 12v converter and I don't know why anybody would. The stereo system is wired straight to the batteries so it has issues with cutting off when voltage drops below 12v or at least that's what I believe is happening. I would like to correct this with the 36v converter. The 12v charging port is completely disconnected. I would like to wire that back in.

There is a fuse block that powers the horn, front lights and what I assume is the rear lights. I cant confirm the rear lights, have to order new bulbs. I don't understand how where or how the horn and rear lights complete the circuit. The green wire runs straight to the battery, so I guess the horn and rear lights' black wire ties back into the negative terminal somewhere?

The amp meter always reads full charge. It's ran across the entire 36v system and directly wired into it. Is this normal? I would like to get the amp meter to work so I can see the battery charge.
 

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Sorry but I'm not an expert and electronics scares and confuses me so bear with me as I know I sound like a bumbling idiot.

So I bought a cheap used EZGO TXT that has been heavily modified I guess. I've been tinkering with a few things and was trying to figure out how it's wired. As I dug around, I found many things that I just can't explain what the hell is going on!

First, there appears to be an entire wiring harness that is mostly unused... It's there, just only one "branch" is being used, not sure what the wires are for. There is another harness running on the opposite side straight to the controller that is actually used.

Second, somebody removed the 36v / 12v converter and I don't know why anybody would. The stereo system is wired straight to the batteries so it has issues with cutting off when voltage drops below 12v or at least that's what I believe is happening. I would like to correct this with the 36v converter. The 12v charging port is completely disconnected. I would like to wire that back in.

There is a fuse block that powers the horn, front lights and what I assume is the rear lights. I cant confirm the rear lights, have to order new bulbs. I don't understand how where or how the horn and rear lights complete the circuit. The green wire runs straight to the battery, so I guess the horn and rear lights' black wire ties back into the negative terminal somewhere?

The amp meter always reads full charge. It's ran across the entire 36v system and directly wired into it. Is this normal? I would like to get the amp meter to work so I can see the battery charge.
first there is a tow/run switch on the controller cover. any time you raise the seat to work there the very first step is to turn the tow/run to TOW and wait half a min. this will protect your controller from being killed

second you need to find a wiring diagram or you will be the next person to screw things up on that cart
look for the mfg tag under the dash or under the seat on a bar behind the batteries
google how to read it to find year and model
then google a manual

finally an amp meter measures usage but not state of charge
if it is actually a volt meter it should be connected to pack - and +
if it still reads wrong then it is the wrong meter, likely wrong voltage

if you want help from us we need the year and model of the cart at minimum
 
The unused wiring is for factory turn signals, The green wire is your 12 volt power to fuse panel and the blue wires on back of switch are what turn on the factory lights when key in far right position. They are wired wrong because you have what appears an aftermarket harness. The blue /white wire should not be with the white wire and the yellow wire should not be there at all. The SOC meter can stay wired to batteries as is providing it works.
 
Is that romex they hooked up with? The unused wiring is for the factory installed lights, looks like someone replaced with aftermarket and didn’t remove the old harness. I have seen plenty of golf carts that were wired with apparently whatever the “builder” had laying around their garage, when I get a cart like that I just rip everything out and start from scratch, it’s faster that way than trying to figure out what all the existing wires do and how to re route them in an organized manner.
 
first there is a tow/run switch on the controller cover. any time you raise the seat to work there the very first step is to turn the tow/run to TOW and wait half a min. this will protect your controller from being killed

second you need to find a wiring diagram or you will be the next person to screw things up on that cart
look for the mfg tag under the dash or under the seat on a bar behind the batteries
google how to read it to find year and model
then google a manual

finally an amp meter measures usage but not state of charge
if it is actually a volt meter it should be connected to pack - and +
if it still reads wrong then it is the wrong meter, likely wrong voltage

if you want help from us we need the year and model of the cart at minimum
Thank you, I have flipped the tow switch. I found the manual so thank you for that. The model is TXTPDS 2007.

Now I know the passenger side harness is the controller harness and is normal, the driver side harness is for turn signals and front lights that are not installed. The stock light bar is replaced and is wired into the key switch. The circular thing is the reverse buzzer.
 
The unused wiring is for factory turn signals, The green wire is your 12 volt power to fuse panel and the blue wires on back of switch are what turn on the factory lights when key in far right position. They are wired wrong because you have what appears an aftermarket harness. The blue /white wire should not be with the white wire and the yellow wire should not be there at all. The SOC meter can stay wired to batteries as is providing it works.
Thank you. I pulled up a wiring diagram (although I struggle to understand). The yellow wire on the key switch appears to activate the front lights when key is turned all the way (far right position). When disconnected, the lights don't work at all. When I remove the blue/white wire that is piggybacked on the white wire, it has no effect. You are correct, it should not be there. That's two wires from that harness that I'm not sure what it's for. red one and a blue/white one.
 
Sorry but I'm not an expert and electronics scares and confuses me so bear with me as I know I sound like a bumbling idiot.

So I bought a cheap used EZGO TXT that has been heavily modified I guess. I've been tinkering with a few things and was trying to figure out how it's wired. As I dug around, I found many things that I just can't explain what the hell is going on!

First, there appears to be an entire wiring harness that is mostly unused... It's there, just only one "branch" is being used, not sure what the wires are for. There is another harness running on the opposite side straight to the controller that is actually used.

Second, somebody removed the 36v / 12v converter and I don't know why anybody would. The stereo system is wired straight to the batteries so it has issues with cutting off when voltage drops below 12v or at least that's what I believe is happening. I would like to correct this with the 36v converter. The 12v charging port is completely disconnected. I would like to wire that back in.

There is a fuse block that powers the horn, front lights and what I assume is the rear lights. I cant confirm the rear lights, have to order new bulbs. I don't understand how where or how the horn and rear lights complete the circuit. The green wire runs straight to the battery, so I guess the horn and rear lights' black wire ties back into the negative terminal somewhere?

The amp meter always reads full charge. It's ran across the entire 36v system and directly wired into it. Is this normal? I would like to get the amp meter to work so I can see the battery charge.
Hey guys. Thank you for all the input, I really have learned a lot. I guess the 36v converter is not standard according to what I've seen in the manual and online photos. The only thing I feel is necessary is to hook up the 36v converter and add the stereo and 12v power socket to it. The lights are fine, the meter is hooked up correctly I guess. Let me know if you have any more thoughts or comments.
 
Every thing 12 volts should be running off the 36 volt to 12 volt reducer. Lights, horn, stereo and USB outlet. If you have any 12 volt accessories hooked to 2 batteries in series for 12 volt it will discharge those batteries more than the others. At that point your charger can stay on longer to try to completely charge those 2 while overcharging the others or it may turn off before those 2 are fully charged; either scenario is not a good thing.

If your 36v to 12v converter has 5 wires coming out of it it will be supplied 36v by 2 specific wires connected to the main positive and main negative of the pack for 36 volts into the converter. There will be 2 specific wires coming out of the reducer that are slightly larger (most likely red and black) that will be the 12v supply. The 5th wire would be connected to the Switched side of the key switch so that the 12v accessories only work when the key is on. Some 36v to 12v only have 4 wires and 12v is on all of the time and if you leave something on by accident you can discharge your batteries.
 
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