Gornoman's Z06
- Thread starter gornoman
- Start date
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Very nice CLEAN cart for sure. I know from other pics I've seen its just as clean under the seat....
You've done a fine job Gorno!
You've done a fine job Gorno!
gornoman
Well-Known Member
Thanx guys, I appreciate it!
OlBoy, the overhead console is a custom. I wish I could take credit for the design and fab, but alas, I received it from a forum member elsewhere. He lives in Texas and kept having a problem with the glue loosening and the vinyl covering drooping. He wanted to make a new one without the vinyl so I asked him if he would sell this one. He ended up giving it to me, and I paid shipping only. Truly a sweet deal.
OlBoy, the overhead console is a custom. I wish I could take credit for the design and fab, but alas, I received it from a forum member elsewhere. He lives in Texas and kept having a problem with the glue loosening and the vinyl covering drooping. He wanted to make a new one without the vinyl so I asked him if he would sell this one. He ended up giving it to me, and I paid shipping only. Truly a sweet deal.
gornoman
Well-Known Member
Well, I just couldn't leave it alone. I did my research (Thanx to Andy, Nate, Caddiemaster, and quite a few others) and paid attention, and made the jump to 48 VOLTS. The controller was already rated for the voltage, and the rest was easy.
First, I visited Sam's club for 2 fresh 6v cells and a smart 12v charger. Charged the 2 new cells together as a 12v unit:
Placed one cell under the driver's seat and the other out back in the passenger side bagwell. Needed to make some new cables with the torch and the solder pellets. I improvised a safe work area in my shed at the campground:
Once the wiring was complete I took it out for it's first run. I am moving flat out FTTF around this curve, and as you can see, she is flying!
The torque gain was quite impressive
I am VERY pleased with the performance gains. Torque is up, top speed is up. Can't ask for more than that!
2 new batteries $130
New 12v charger $50
3 new 4g cables $0 (leftover from previous project)
Ability to outrun any cart in camp - PRICELESS
First, I visited Sam's club for 2 fresh 6v cells and a smart 12v charger. Charged the 2 new cells together as a 12v unit:
Placed one cell under the driver's seat and the other out back in the passenger side bagwell. Needed to make some new cables with the torch and the solder pellets. I improvised a safe work area in my shed at the campground:
Once the wiring was complete I took it out for it's first run. I am moving flat out FTTF around this curve, and as you can see, she is flying!
The torque gain was quite impressive
I am VERY pleased with the performance gains. Torque is up, top speed is up. Can't ask for more than that!
2 new batteries $130
New 12v charger $50
3 new 4g cables $0 (leftover from previous project)
Ability to outrun any cart in camp - PRICELESS
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
I'm thinking of doing the 48v thing myself. I'm getting tired of being in the back of the pack out at the cottage. All the new Par-Cars out their are killing me LOL... Those things are running about 25 mph stock, ugly but fast.
gornoman
Well-Known Member
I finally finished the detailing and have spent a few weeks with the Z06 in it's modified state. All I can say is HOLY CRAP! This cart has been reborn! I HIGHLY reccomend converting a Fleet TXT to 48v. The cart has gobs of torque and will run all weekend on a charge. But I like to charge it each night because in the morning she has 54+ volts and REALLY flies!
Here is the full story:
The cart was a 36v Fleet style with an Alltrax AXE 400amp Programmable controler, as well as 4g Welding Cables. All else on the cart was stock electricly, except for extra 12v goodies. The Alltrax controller was allready rated for 48v.
I added 2-6v batteries wired in series for a total of 48vdc, one under the drivers side, and one in the passenger's bagwell:
The white wire from the cart charge receptacle was moved from it's original position at the Main Pack Positive upstream 2 batteries to it's new position on battery 3 positive terminal. Now the Powerwise charger only "sees" 36vdc and can still be used as normal. The additional charger is hooked up across batteries 1 and 2 in the pack, and as such only "sees" 12vdc. Both chargers are running simultaneously, no wires have been disconnected.
All of the control wiring still only "sees" 36v (this reading is across the small posts of the stock solenoid, key on, cart in gear, light pressure on the go pedal to activte solenoid circuit):
And the main pack now totals 48vdc (and then some!):
This pack voltage was after running the cart Friday night and all day Saturday, just as I was preparing to leave Sunday. I don't think range will be an issue. I saw 53.9vdc last weekend after a full charge cycle.
This is a VERY EASY upgrade if you have the proper controller already.
Here is the full story:
The cart was a 36v Fleet style with an Alltrax AXE 400amp Programmable controler, as well as 4g Welding Cables. All else on the cart was stock electricly, except for extra 12v goodies. The Alltrax controller was allready rated for 48v.
I added 2-6v batteries wired in series for a total of 48vdc, one under the drivers side, and one in the passenger's bagwell:
The white wire from the cart charge receptacle was moved from it's original position at the Main Pack Positive upstream 2 batteries to it's new position on battery 3 positive terminal. Now the Powerwise charger only "sees" 36vdc and can still be used as normal. The additional charger is hooked up across batteries 1 and 2 in the pack, and as such only "sees" 12vdc. Both chargers are running simultaneously, no wires have been disconnected.
All of the control wiring still only "sees" 36v (this reading is across the small posts of the stock solenoid, key on, cart in gear, light pressure on the go pedal to activte solenoid circuit):
And the main pack now totals 48vdc (and then some!):
This pack voltage was after running the cart Friday night and all day Saturday, just as I was preparing to leave Sunday. I don't think range will be an issue. I saw 53.9vdc last weekend after a full charge cycle.
This is a VERY EASY upgrade if you have the proper controller already.
StreetGlide
New Member
I have read everyone of your posts and did not find what I was looking for! So, I'll just ask.
Would you share the history, including but not limited to, the inspiration, planning and construction of the Z06's top (as in roof)? I really "dig it"!
(I assume the inspiration was the "full scale" Z06's top, but any other?)
Would you share the history, including but not limited to, the inspiration, planning and construction of the Z06's top (as in roof)? I really "dig it"!
(I assume the inspiration was the "full scale" Z06's top, but any other?)
gornoman
Well-Known Member
Here you go L&S:
By popular demand (OK, so it was 1 or 2 requests), here is what is under the fake convertable roof:
The shaping bows are made from a synthetic deck building material called Trex. The "boards" are a mix of plastic shavings and sawdust, will not warp or change shape, and are easily worked with power tools. I purchased one 8 foot 5/4 deck board and ripped it down the center on a table saw. I used a router table to round-off the edges of the boards, and a drum sander on my drill press to match the bottom edges to the contours of the roof. The bows are screwed to the roof with counter-sunk stainless steel deck screws.
I let the screws come all the way through both layers of the roof to get a better bite in the thin plastic layers. I cut off the remaining dangerous screw tips with a Dremel (circled area) and the screws got so hot the surrounding plastic melted slightly and I was able to smooth some melted plastic over the blunt screw tip. The snaps are also screwed into the roof where needed, but 1/2" screws did not pose the problem of going through both layers.
By popular demand (OK, so it was 1 or 2 requests), here is what is under the fake convertable roof:
The shaping bows are made from a synthetic deck building material called Trex. The "boards" are a mix of plastic shavings and sawdust, will not warp or change shape, and are easily worked with power tools. I purchased one 8 foot 5/4 deck board and ripped it down the center on a table saw. I used a router table to round-off the edges of the boards, and a drum sander on my drill press to match the bottom edges to the contours of the roof. The bows are screwed to the roof with counter-sunk stainless steel deck screws.
I let the screws come all the way through both layers of the roof to get a better bite in the thin plastic layers. I cut off the remaining dangerous screw tips with a Dremel (circled area) and the screws got so hot the surrounding plastic melted slightly and I was able to smooth some melted plastic over the blunt screw tip. The snaps are also screwed into the roof where needed, but 1/2" screws did not pose the problem of going through both layers.
StreetGlide
New Member
NICE! Thanks for sharing! I am sure I am not the only one that appreciates it (or will).
StreetGlide
New Member
Not familiar with "Solder Pellets". Are they Rosin core lead or did you go with Silver?
StreetGlide
New Member
Okay, when are you going to start on the ZR-1?