F1 wire Melted ?

[david11690]

Well it seems my 06 PDS stopped today and we decided to inspect and perform the self diagnostic test and it seems I either go no codes with the FWD RVR swith in Neu or if I switch it to RVR I get 2-2 but the voltage on the battery appears to be 37.8 volts. So, upon further inspection I found the black wire leading to the black motor F2 melted about half way, it appears the wire rubbed on the solenoid nut which cut the vinyl sheathing.

What do I check next, because once the repair was made to the F2 wire the state of charge meter reads full, and the FWD button pushed along with the pedal does not move the wheels, I am hoping the solenoid, but the black wire leads directly to the motor.

 

[HotRodCarts]

Does the solenoid click when you push the pedal? Does the reverse buzzer work when you put the cart in reverse?

 

[david11690]

Yes, the reverse beeps but the solenoid does not click, I do hear the micro switch click and I do have power on the blue and yellow wires at the solenoid.

 

[HotRodCarts]

It's possible the controller blew when the cable shorted. There's a service manual in the EZGO resource forum here that has testing procedures for the controller. I'd download that and do the tests...

 

[david11690]

HRC where is the test procedures for the controller? That is what I believe is blown.

 

[HotRodCarts]

Here's the troubleshooting chart for the EZGO PDS drive system...

EZGO PDS Troubleshooting Chart

 

[david11690]

OK, the test have started and it appears the resistor has a problem, when I took it out of the loop between the two leads on the solenoid I found the resistor only has 130-135 ohms which the resitor reads to have at least 250 +/- 5%. So, once I get another resistor I will proceed with further test.

 

[david11690]

Testing on F1 & F2 with the wires connected to the motor get 0.00 volts with the key on, pedal depressed Per the Speed control PDS ts diagram. With the wires removed the voltage reads 24.26 with the pedal depressed or not.

Any ideas? What is wrong, it seems the motor is done and the controller.

 

[HotRodCarts]

Here's a test for the motor. Try it so we can see if the motor is bad.

Flip the run tow switch in tow. Disconnect the main positive and negative from the battery pack. Jack the rear tires off the ground and put the cart on jack-stands, Unhook all the cables at the motor and jump S1 to A1 and S2 to A2 terminals on the motor. This is two separate connections. With a 12 volt battery charger set on 15-20 amps or a 12 volt battery take 12V positive and hook to the S1/A1 combination and 12V negative goes to the S2/A2 combination. The motor should spin.

If the motor tests ok I'd say your controller is bad...

 

[david11690]

Yes, I got the rear of the cart up off the ground, and was able to cross A2/F2 with the handle of the charger and A1/S1 with the red handle of the charger and set the charge to 20amp and plugged in the charger and the motor spun. Late last night I finally, received a beep code of what appears to be 1-1 which is saying the controller is bad.

Is there a place that I can send the controller to get it repaired?

 

[HotRodCarts]

Rebuilt controllers are usually nothing but problems. Your best bet is to buy a new controller. Alltrax makes very good controllers. Star and Logisystems are also good.