EZGO PDS Golf Cart Won't Run

robertmoss

New Member
I have a 2005 EZGO PDS golf cart that won't run and I just cant figure out. When I got it the batteries were old and the solenoid would not click. I replaced the battery's with new ones and still nothing. Then I bought a new (not refurbished) controller. Now, the solenoid clicks but it still wont move. Then, I replaced the keyswitch, Forward & Reverse switch, microswitch at the pedal, run/tow switch (which was wired wrong when I got it), and the ITS. I did a continuity check to look for broken wires and all is good. The only thing I have not replaced is the speed sensor and the motor. I'm not sure how to check the sensor or motor. Can one of the experts help me diagnose this thing?
Thanks
 

TDAWG

Member
What do you mean by the run/tow switch was wired wrong when you got it? Normally, it just plugs into controller.
 

robertmoss

New Member
The guy I got the cart from bought just the run/tow switch and the wires that plug into the controller seperately then wired the switch wrong according to my schematics
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
You can test the motor with 12 volts or a 12 volt battery charger at 15+ amps. Your cart is a PDS so it has a SEPEX motor.

Testing a SepEx, Regen, Shunt Motor:

To test a SepEx, shunt wound regen motor you jump the S1 to A1 and the S2 to A2 terminals. This is two separate connections. Take 12V positive and hook to the S1/A1 combination and 12V negative goes to the S2/A2 combination. The motor should spin.

Do not run the motor with the front of the shaft unsupported.
 

robertmoss

New Member
Hey Hotrod,
the motor is still mounted on the car, and I have it jacked up. Do I disconnect all the wires on the motor before doing this? Also, do I remove the speed control wires from the controller?
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Unplug the speed control and jump it this way.
To test a SepEx, shunt wound regen motor you jump the F1 to A1 and the F2 to A2 terminals. This is two separate connections. Take 12V positive and hook to the S1/A1 combination and 12V negative goes to the S2/A2 combination. The motor should spin.

Unhook all cables first and put the run tow switch in the tow position before unhooking anything and jumping the motor
You can test it with the motor still bolted to the rear end.
 

robertmoss

New Member
Thank you sir, I'll try it in the morning. I took the 4 wires off the motor and did a continuity check on the motor. I did find continuity between the F1 nd F2. No continuity between A1 and A2. No continuity between A1 and F1or F2, and none between A2 and F1 or F2. Is that a sign that the motor is bad?
 

bonduranth

New Member
If there is no continuity from s1 to s2 the field coils are bad. if no ohms between a1 and a2 either the brushes of armature is bad. In your case, you have a burned up motor that is cheaper to replace. :usa:
 
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