I have a 1999 gas EZ-GO. I'm not sure of the model #. When I put it away last Dec it ran fine. I tried to take it out this weekend. I was able to start it with no problem, but when I hit the gas the engine increased RPM but the cart did not move. I pulled up the seat and saw that the pulley and shaft on the differential were turning but the wheels did not. Conversely, when I turned the wheels the shaft and pulley did not turn. My question is did I break a sher pin or something. If so where is it, in the differential or the axel? Any ideas?
EZGO not moving
- Thread starter bucky7680
- Start date
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
It sounds like it could be a stripped rear hub. Check to see if the axles are turning when you try to move the cart.
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
I missed that part.
Grizzley
Member
I would say that its a f-n-r cable linkage problem.It kinda sounds like the trans isnt going in gear. I am guessing that if you put it away in December, you were riding in snow and or ice maybe, if it snows where you live
? Mushy ice and salt can reak havoc on cables. Bucky you need to make sure that the linkage is tight and that the cables arent frozen(rusted) tight. The nut on the shifting linkage might have also worked loose. Just a thought. Let us know if you find anything out.
Gregg
Gregg
Bucky,
Yes, your F/N/R cables are tension operated. When you look at them, grab each cable just below the lower bracket (It is the brass colored "arm"). Then pull down and see if either one pulles out. Certain critters have been known to make nests out of the cables.
Put the F/N/R handle in the neutral position. When you first look under the seat, both arms should be level. After pulling on the cables, if they are in tact. Measure the height of the tension springs. They need to be exactly the same height. If one is much looser than the other, it will prevent the opposite side from being able to pull down on the arm.
If you are in a pickle and need to move the car. Put the car in forward. Press down on the passenger's side of the differential arm, while moving the car forward. When you see it move, and hear it click you can drive the car where ever you need.
Bob
Yes, your F/N/R cables are tension operated. When you look at them, grab each cable just below the lower bracket (It is the brass colored "arm"). Then pull down and see if either one pulles out. Certain critters have been known to make nests out of the cables.
Put the F/N/R handle in the neutral position. When you first look under the seat, both arms should be level. After pulling on the cables, if they are in tact. Measure the height of the tension springs. They need to be exactly the same height. If one is much looser than the other, it will prevent the opposite side from being able to pull down on the arm.
If you are in a pickle and need to move the car. Put the car in forward. Press down on the passenger's side of the differential arm, while moving the car forward. When you see it move, and hear it click you can drive the car where ever you need.
Bob
Grizzley
Member
I guess that kinda rules out ice and snow huh. Just make sure that your cables are moving the shifter(thats what I call the rocker mechanism, I have no idea what its true name is) on the differential back and forth. And make sure that the nut that holds the shifter in place is secure. Just keep trying things and we will figure it out sooner or later.
Gregg
Gregg
I was able to take a quick look at the cart this morning. The f/r cables are both moving freely. When I switch from f to r the bar that they are attached to moves but it looks like it doesn't rock back and forth much. I taped it lightly and rocked it back and forth with no results.I took off the wheels and the hubs seem to be ok except one of the threads was cross threaded. (I need to address this later.) I took the belt off the rear pulley and it turns freely. There is no noise and no resistance felt. Also, I pulled the differential plug and found that it was way low, almost empty, and I filled it up. My gut feeling is that it is stuck in neutral. What do you suggest my next move is? Do I need to remove the rear axel and differential and take the differential apart? What is the mechanisem inside that shifts it from f/r and did the oil being low cause the problem. I don't hear any grinding when I turn either the pulley or the rear wheels. When I turn one hub the other hub does not turn. Finally, where do I get the repair parts from? I live in the LA area. Thanks again
You turn one wheel and the other does not turn???
You have a stripped hub. Its too late for the simple check, which is to check for axle nut tightness. If one of the axle nuts was cross threaded, then someone didn't tighten it down tight enough.
Leave both rear wheels on. Put the car in gear (fwd), and have a friend help you with this. Hold one wheel still while you turn the opposite. Look for the axle nut to spin on the wheel that is NOT moving.
For smooth shifting, each spring must be the same height. Measure from the bottom cup washer to the top cup washer. If they are already below 1-1/4" tall, adjust the tallest spring to the shortest height. If they are above 1-1/4" tall, adjust them to the aforementioned height.
How bad are the threads on the axle and castellated nut?
Bob
You have a stripped hub. Its too late for the simple check, which is to check for axle nut tightness. If one of the axle nuts was cross threaded, then someone didn't tighten it down tight enough.
Leave both rear wheels on. Put the car in gear (fwd), and have a friend help you with this. Hold one wheel still while you turn the opposite. Look for the axle nut to spin on the wheel that is NOT moving.
For smooth shifting, each spring must be the same height. Measure from the bottom cup washer to the top cup washer. If they are already below 1-1/4" tall, adjust the tallest spring to the shortest height. If they are above 1-1/4" tall, adjust them to the aforementioned height.
How bad are the threads on the axle and castellated nut?
Bob
