EZ-GO TXT Motor Runs But Golf Cart Doesn't Move


New Member
I'm new to this site & golf carts so please post any help in layman's terms. I have an electric 36V 2002 EZ-GO TXT (Manuf. Code-J302). Last weekend I was driving it up the hill in my from yard and it just stopped but I could still hear the motor turning. Now the battery was a low so I just figured it need to be charged. I charged it up over night and the next day I tried to drive it and it wouldn't move but I can still hear the motor turning and/or running. I cleaned the battery post on all batteries and checked the water levels(all seemed good). I know I need to get a volt meter to check them all too. I do know it's not a PDS cart. It has a F/R switch. I also know it has a Curtis PMC Controller. Not sure what else you need to know so let me know and I'll post it. I work out of town so the weekends is the only time I have to work on it. I could just take it to a shop to have it fixed but I'd rather save the money and gain some knowledge on repairing the cart at the same time. Someone please help me. :wallbash:


Welcome to the forum...

It sounds like you stripped a rear hub. Pop the dust covers off the rear and have someone push the go pedal while you look at the nut under the dust cover. If one of the hubs is stripped you'll see the nut on the axle spin...


Well-Known Member
You have a stripped brake drum/hub. We have the pix to help you repair it. It is a very easy fix.

Pimp Daddy

Cartaholic - R.I.P.
EZGO 82-94 Gas & 82-Up Electric Golf Cart & Utility Vehicle Brake Hub Drum

This is a factory made replacement brake hub/drum that fits 2 cycle gas E-Z-GO Golf Carts made from 1982 to 1994 and electric E-Z-GO Golf Carts and Utility Vehicles made from 1982 to Present. This brake drum has a 3/4" center hole with a 24 tooth 'star' spline. The drum is held in place by a castellated nut (5/8" x 18tpi) and a thick (.118") flat washer. This hub drum has the smaller center hole as shown on the right in the picture.

E-Z-GO Part # 19186G1

This hub/drum also will fit the E-Z-GO electric 4 seater personnel carriers (Liberty, PCX4, 4 Caddy & TXT 2+2) and utility trucks (800 [both the earlier 2-cycle gas 800 and the later Industrial & Turf 800 electric] and the WorkHorse & MPT models 1000E). This also includes the Cushman Commander 2100 electric truck, the Jacobson 1110 electric Hauler. It also fits on many other golf car brands that have the same Dana H-12 electric differential such as Columbia ParCar, Hyundai (gas & electric) and Melex but not Yamaha.

In the early 80's E-Z-GO used an axle hub with a separate brake drum that slides over the brake shoes & hub. This one piece hub/drum is suitable to replace the early hub & drum, if they have the star spline described above. Some of the very early 80s cars had a separate hub that employed a straight key rather than the star spline. This hub/drum will NOT work with keyed axle/hub interface.

Note 1: A thin shim (.032") is required between the drum and the axle bearing. The thin shim & thick outer flat washer are essential to the proper tightening of the hub/drum to the axle. The shim slides onto the axle & fits between the inner hub/drum surface & the axle bearing. The thick washer goes against the outer hub/drum followed by the castellated retainer nut. Tighten the nut to 80 foot pounds (140 ft lbs max.), using a torque wrench, and then tighten a little more to the next position so as to insert a cotter pin.

Note 2: If the nut works loose the entire hub/drum will start to rock on the splines each time you start & stop the car. Eventually the splines in the hub/drum will strip out and the car will not move, even though the engine (or motor) seems to work fine. If this happens to you look at the hub/drum retainer nut as someone starts the car. If the nut spins and the car does not move, then the drum has spun out and you will need to replace it. Usually the axle is OK but be sure to clean the axle splines before installing the new drum.

Note 3: Clean off any dirt or rust and check for grooves or excessive wear, especially at the edges. Scruff up the inner drum surface and the brake shoe material with some course sandpaper to deglaze the surfaces.
If you can't get the rust off, or if the drums are badly worn, replace them. The drum should not be resurfaced on a brake lathe.

If you are replacing your brake drums, you might want to check the Brake Cables on both the Driver and the Passenger Side. If they are not in good shape, you may want to replace them as well. To complete your brake system inspection, check the Brake Shoes and replace them if necessary. Most brake shoe wear occurs toward the bottom of the shoes. Brakes are a matter of safety and no place to skimp. We strongly recommend a Service Manual be on hand when performing brake work. While you are working on your gas vehicle, you may also want to check the Air, Fuel, and Oil Filters, as well as the Spark Plug. These items should be changed twice a year. If you have an electric vehicle, you may want to purchase our Battery Care Kit to make caring for your batteries easy. Remember, the better care you take of your batteries, the longer they will last for you.

Suggested Retail Value: $48.00

Patrick L

No pic really needed just to replace a brake drum/hub. Remove wheel, cotter pin, axle nut and pull off the drum. Splines will/should be stripped. Just make sure to TIGHTEN the axle nut. 80# then continue to tighten till cotter falls in. Good idea to check the opposite side.