Ok, Cart was working fine for years - now, the charger shows it putting in 14 Amps but the carts batteries are not charging. I thought maybe it was a grounding problem so, checked all my cables - they are good. Disconnected each of my accessories, one at a time to see if it was any of those and it wasn't. What could it be ?
Electrical problems
- Thread starter bramb01
- Start date
We probably need more specifics.
What kind of car do you have DS or Precedent? What year?
Do you have a Powerwise Charger?
Charging 14 amps is good, how long are you leaving the charger plugged in?
Does it ever shut off?
How old are your batteries?
How old are your cables?
What is the pack voltage?
What are the individual battery voltages?
What kind of car do you have DS or Precedent? What year?
Do you have a Powerwise Charger?
Charging 14 amps is good, how long are you leaving the charger plugged in?
Does it ever shut off?
How old are your batteries?
How old are your cables?
What is the pack voltage?
What are the individual battery voltages?
It's a 1988 DS. All battery cables are about a year old. The batteries are about 3 years old. The charger is an old EZ Go Textron "Total Charge" charger. The charger has a 12 hour timer and I've left it on overnight - it turns off and there still isn't any power - not enough to even have the lights go on.
Usually, the charger will show an initial charge of 14 amps and through the hours that it is recharging the amps will go down, as the batteries get charged - but now - it shows 14 amps continuously - so, my thought was that there was a slow drain - like one of the cables might be worn and is grounding out. I grounded the frame when I put in the lights - so, I took that ground off and then I replaced the accessory cables (lights, electric volt gauge).
I'm in the process of individually charging each battery and checking the volts but even when I had a bad battery (before I replaced them all) or even 2 bad batteries - the cart still had enough power to go awhile before it ran out.
It almost seems as if either the charger isn't working (is there a test i can perform on the charger) - which doesn't seem too likely - because it shouldn't show any volts on the meter when I plug it into the cart and turn it on (should it ?) or the batteries are being drained as quickly as they are being charged - like something is shorting out (by why isn't any of my fuses on my accessories blowing ?)
Could it be my solenoid ?
The female receptacle - where my charger cable plugs into the cart - has a wire fuse on top of it - the fuse looks good but one side looks a little rusted - could it be that ? but if so, why would my charger be showing any amps coming it ?
Any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated !!!
Usually, the charger will show an initial charge of 14 amps and through the hours that it is recharging the amps will go down, as the batteries get charged - but now - it shows 14 amps continuously - so, my thought was that there was a slow drain - like one of the cables might be worn and is grounding out. I grounded the frame when I put in the lights - so, I took that ground off and then I replaced the accessory cables (lights, electric volt gauge).
I'm in the process of individually charging each battery and checking the volts but even when I had a bad battery (before I replaced them all) or even 2 bad batteries - the cart still had enough power to go awhile before it ran out.
It almost seems as if either the charger isn't working (is there a test i can perform on the charger) - which doesn't seem too likely - because it shouldn't show any volts on the meter when I plug it into the cart and turn it on (should it ?) or the batteries are being drained as quickly as they are being charged - like something is shorting out (by why isn't any of my fuses on my accessories blowing ?)
Could it be my solenoid ?
The female receptacle - where my charger cable plugs into the cart - has a wire fuse on top of it - the fuse looks good but one side looks a little rusted - could it be that ? but if so, why would my charger be showing any amps coming it ?
Any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated !!!
The fact that your battery charger is registering 14 amps indicates it is working. To confirm this, put a meter across the pack while the charger is on and you should see a voltage like 42v +/-.
If you have 1 bad cell in 1 battery it will continue to charge and never get to the point where it will move the cart.
Post up your total pack voltage and then the individual battery voltages.
You will probably find you have 1 or more bad batteries that are causing your problem.
If you have 1 bad cell in 1 battery it will continue to charge and never get to the point where it will move the cart.
Post up your total pack voltage and then the individual battery voltages.
You will probably find you have 1 or more bad batteries that are causing your problem.
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Also check and make sure the batteries don't need water.
Charged each battery - up to 1/4 to 1/2 full and, individually, and am getting 5.85 - 6.0v for each of the 6 batteries. Pack voltage was up around 35v. Water level is good. Hooked all the batteries up again and started to charge - but as it was charging, I noticed:
1.) When charging, the resistor coils where getting warmer
2.) Ignition key off but cart was in reverse - after charging for 1 hr - the reverse buzzer went off.
3.) Moved the Forward/Reverse switch to neutral and got a spark.
So, guessing the batteries are ok. Based upon the new symptoms:
- I'll pull apart the F/R switch assembly and visually inspect - HOW CAN I TEST THE ASSEMBLY TO SEE IF IT IS SHORTING? Just a simple continuity test or is there something else ? The microswitch is clicking and apperas to be ok.
Also, starting to wonder if my controller is bad and/or shorting out ? I'll pull it apart to and visually inspect thia too - HOW CAN I TEST IT ?
Once again, I appreciate all of the suggestions and help !!!
1.) When charging, the resistor coils where getting warmer
2.) Ignition key off but cart was in reverse - after charging for 1 hr - the reverse buzzer went off.
3.) Moved the Forward/Reverse switch to neutral and got a spark.
So, guessing the batteries are ok. Based upon the new symptoms:
- I'll pull apart the F/R switch assembly and visually inspect - HOW CAN I TEST THE ASSEMBLY TO SEE IF IT IS SHORTING? Just a simple continuity test or is there something else ? The microswitch is clicking and apperas to be ok.
Also, starting to wonder if my controller is bad and/or shorting out ? I'll pull it apart to and visually inspect thia too - HOW CAN I TEST IT ?
Once again, I appreciate all of the suggestions and help !!!
BadToTheBone
Moderator
Could the solenoid be stuck?
OK, did a quick continuity check of key switch - no continuity when off and continuity when on - so, possibly not that - unless there is another test.
Tested the solenoid (disconnected top post wires and checked for continuity - that was OK also).
Pulled the batteries and looked at the V-glide - it was relative clean and I could hear the switch working.
Took the F/R Switch off and saw that there where cracks along where the posts "glide" along the copper on the backplate (Hope I'm explaining this well enough and don't seem to be able to cut and paste a picture I took). Guessing that it should be smooth - and no cracks or gaps, so maybe this is the problem ? Does it sounds as if this problem would cause a constant drain on the batteries, make my F/R switch spark, make the reverse buzzer go off when the key isn't turned on ?
In advance (and again) - THANKS !!! foir your advise, suggestions and guidance.
Tested the solenoid (disconnected top post wires and checked for continuity - that was OK also).
Pulled the batteries and looked at the V-glide - it was relative clean and I could hear the switch working.
Took the F/R Switch off and saw that there where cracks along where the posts "glide" along the copper on the backplate (Hope I'm explaining this well enough and don't seem to be able to cut and paste a picture I took). Guessing that it should be smooth - and no cracks or gaps, so maybe this is the problem ? Does it sounds as if this problem would cause a constant drain on the batteries, make my F/R switch spark, make the reverse buzzer go off when the key isn't turned on ?
In advance (and again) - THANKS !!! foir your advise, suggestions and guidance.
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who added some thoughts / comments.
Ended up putting in a new F/R switch and I'm back up and running. Pack volts are back up 41.7v (and it's not fully charged yet) and after letting it sit for more than 24 hrs, I only lost about 1v - so, the batteries aren't draining like they did before.
Thanks again !!!
Ended up putting in a new F/R switch and I'm back up and running. Pack volts are back up 41.7v (and it's not fully charged yet) and after letting it sit for more than 24 hrs, I only lost about 1v - so, the batteries aren't draining like they did before.
Thanks again !!!
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Glad to hear you got it fixed. Thanks for the follow up...
