E-Z no go

W

waynelson

New Member
I have been working on my Dads 96 EZ GO, DCS cart for over a month now. The problem started with the cart jerking or shuddering and when left as it normally is in the garage the batteries drained totally. The short story, I have replaced all of the batteries, the solenoid and the controller with a rebuilt. The cart won't even move now unless you push it with the acc. pedal down, then it will jerk and surge. I have tested the ITS where you separate the six pin connector from the pedal box and the voltage on the black wire is 14.6v which would indicate that the sensor is faulty. Another test on the red wire of the 10 pin connector shows the ITS to be OK with the voltage increasing gradually as the pedal is pushed down to 1.6v. The guy that told me it must be the controller now says it must be the ITS. I would like some better confirming test at this point. Help please!
 
I just charged the batteries so I could give you a good reading, hadn't charged them since I installed them. The initial voltage was 40.0 and with the switch on and the cart in forward (the solenoid did click) and the pedal down the reading was 39.9. If I leave the tow maintenance switch on the batteries will drain to nothing over night thats why I had to replace all the batteries they were several years old and wouldn't take a charge after being drained so low even with my 6v charger. With no load being applied I can watch the volt meter going down at a pretty fast rate. There is a short somewhere.
 
Something to consider:

If the pack comes down that fast, there's gotta be heat somewhere. Find the heat.
 
When I started this project the first thing I did was remove the cover from the controller and solenoid and there was a wire from the B+ of the controller to the solenoid that had the insulation melted. I replaced that wire with a new one but I still dont know why or how it got that way in the first place. I also replaced the solenoid at that time thinking that it might have been stuck. I Haven't checked for heat since but I can do that, it will probably show up on that same wire.
 
I left the tow maint. switch on for a day and the batteries didn't drain totally as they had before however it did go from 40v to 35.8v. I am now considering the possibility that I may have gotten a bad rebuilt controller. I performed Test 1 and Test 2 of the EZ-GO testing for DCS controlled machines and could not get 36v on either one, only around 40MV on each. Does this sound like the controller???? Hope it had some kind of guarantee.
 
It's very possible you got a bad controller. Does the controller get warm/hot with the switch in the run position and the cart just sitting? Was it a new or rebuilt controller?
 
The controller was a rebuilt curtis. I have redone some tests (apparently I was doing them wrong) from the "E-Z go testing procedures for DCS machines" Test 1 with the pedal down gives 38.09v. Test 2 with pedal down is 37.99v. Test 3 with pedal down is 37.61v. Test 4 with pedal down is 36.98v. The solenoid clicks so I didn't do Test 5. Test 6 was normal at 14.13v. Test 7 went from 0.45v to 1.67v normal. Then I checked voltage between B+ and M- at the controller that was 35.34 v with the pedal down. The last test was a jump wire between B- and M- on the controller with the rear wheels off the ground and the pedal pushed nothing happened until I turned the rear wheel with my hand and it started spinning. It went for a few seconds then stopped. I tried the same in reverse and it did the same as forward. So is this the controller, motor or ????????
 
Can't address the trouble shooting guide as I have never used it, but, just because a solenoid clicks doesn't mean it's working correctly. If they have a solenoid procedure, use it.
 
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