E-Z-GO 2+2 Shuttle Controller

[doughboy43]

I have a 2005 Z-Z-GO TXT 2+2 Shuttle without the run/tow switch and the f & R switch on the body. This cart came to me without a controller. I should mention that the cart is stock and likely will remain that way. I have been looking for a controller for this and need the opinion of the experts here. Is the Altrax npx 4844(400amp)its the correct one for this cart? I think I have correctly determined that this is a series cart. Thanks for you help.

 

[dougmcp]

Yes, that is the correct non-programmable controller for the series cart. It uses an ITS inductive throttle input.

 

[doughboy43]

I have seen the programable ones. I don't quite understand about the its or what is programable(on that type).It looks like the non-programable would be the simplest one to use. I should add that this cart has a history of burning up stock controllers, a problem I think I have narrowed it down to thermal overload or overheating due to part throttle operation with a load. I hope the npx 4844 will work as it sure has a better price than some of the others I have looked at. I assume I should up- grade to 4 ga. cables too? Anything else should I look at upgrading to prevent the controller overheating. I definitely will not be driving part throttle so that will not be an issue.

 

[dougmcp]

How many amps is the controller you keep burning out?
I believe the 2+2 came stock with the heavy duty Curtis 400 amp controller.
If you have been using the stock EZGO 275 amp controller, that would be your problem.
If you're just using your 2+2 for regular duties and not overloading or hunting then the 400 amp will work fine.
A 4ga upgrade to your battery wiring will help with the torque required to go up hills and maintaining speed.
The ITS throttle is just an inductive type throttle and you need to know that when you order a controller. The other type is resistive and not the type used in your cart.

 

[doughboy43]

This cart was not mine but belonged to an elderly friend when it was burning up controllers. I suspect the first bad one was replaced with a standard 275 amp since it burned out in a short time. This lady is just barely tall enough to push the pedal all the way if she stretches and at 93 she does not go very fast. I thing the real trouble has been overheating as she has had the same trouble with the new(it is a06 pds) cart she bought.When you say resistive type would that be what is used on the Marathon models?

 

[doughboy43]

I finally got the controller I needed . I bought the Altrax NPX 4844. My next question is what precautions should I take when installing it and when I hook the batteries back up?It came with a buss bar type of fuse. I am assuming it goes on the battery between the post and cable?

 

[HotRodCarts]

Make sure you have the run tow switch in tow. Yes the fuse goes between the battery pack main and the cable.

 

[doughboy43]

I do not have a run / tow switch(wish I did) I guess I double check the wiring and connections and hope I do not get any sparks.

 

[HotRodCarts]

Sorry I thought you had a PDS cart. You'll probably get a spark when you make the final connection. Unplug the reed switch at the charger receptacle on the cart before doing anything. Other than that you should be fine.

 

[doughboy43]

Thank for the tip.That is one I would not have thought of.I am going to try this tomorrow if I don't get called in to work.With all of the info and advice here I might just get this done.

 

[HotRodCarts]

No problem. Let us know how it goes..

 

[doughboy43]

I have installed the new controller and all I get is a click. The green light on the controller blinks 4 times. According to the chart that came with it I have a over temp. condition. I have traced the connections according to a diagram from Altrax and have all tight connections. The cart has the A2 wires and they are bolted together according to instructions. I am at a loss as to what to check next, any ideas?

 

[doughboy43]

After a closer look at the solenoid there is what appears to be a fusible link that is burned in half. It's remains are bolted to the 2 large (battery?) terminals. Could this be the problem and what is it called. I have seen these that were not burned and this one is definitely burned in half. Can I pick this up at my local Golf cart dealer? Thanks for the help.

 

[doughboy43]

I have installed the new controller(Altrax NPX 4844),new resister on the solenoid and still won't go. I get 4 green lights when the controller powers up then a yellow light. I have 37.2 pack voltage and 35.6 across B+ and B-. Voltage across B- and M- at no throttle is 18.2 volts and goes to .5 volts at full throttle. According to my research that indicates a bad F&R switch. Am I on the right track here? I want to be sure and not keep "shooting until I hit something". So far you guys have been spot on your diagnosis. Thanks!

 

[dougmcp]

The first 4 green lights indicate you have the correct controller. The yellow light says the throttle is wide open, that's where I would look.
I don't know if you have the diagnostics for the NPX4844. If this doesn't help, call Alltrax 541-476-3565, they are great with support:

LED Status Indicator:
The LED located on the front of the unit provides status of the units operation
and used for troubleshooting.

The LED Blink Codes occur at power up, the number of green blinks indicates
the throttle configuration:

* 1 Green LED flash = 0-5 kohm resistive
* 4 Green LED flashes = EZ-GO inductive (ITS)
* 7 Green LED flashes = ClubCar 5k-0 ohms, 3-wire throttle


Normal display status:

* Solid Green: Controller ready to run
* Solid Red: Controller in programming mode (not for field use)
* Solid Yellow: Controller throttle is wide open, controller is supplying
max output, and is not in current limit.


Trouble Shooting:
Error code display:# of RED blinks indicates any error conditions that might
exist:

1 Red = Throttle Position Sensor Over Range. Check for open wires.
2 Red = Under Temperature. Controller below -25C
3 Red = HPD. Throttle hasn't gone to zero during this power on cycle.
4 Red = Over Temperature. Controller over 95C
5 Red = Not used
6 Red = Battery Under Voltage detected. Battery V < under voltage slider
7 Red = Battery Over Voltage detected. Battery V > over voltage slider

 

[doughboy43]

Thanks,I do have the LED and am getting an amber light when I press the throttle.According to the Altrax site's trouble shooting guide I have a bad F&R switch.The only flashing lights I see are when the controller first powers up. I hate to buy a part I don't need if there is another test I can do to determine if it really is the F&R switch.Are the LED's for the trouble codes the same one as on top that flashed green and amber?

 

[Andy4639]

If you mash the gas pedal all the way down it's suppose to turn amber to let you know it's got full throttle! That is normal and nothing is wrong with the controller.

 

[doughboy43]

That is what I thought. I just don't know where to look next. Any suggestions?

 

[HotRodCarts]

I'd test the motor first. It could be the F&R switch to. If you take the switch apart you'll be able to tell if its bad by looking at the contacts. Usually when the contacts are bad the cart will still move in one direction but I have seen them not move at all.

 

[Andy4639]

With the pedal pressed down a little wiggle the F/R handle back and forth a little to see if it makes contact. Don't try and change directions but just move it back and forth enough to see if it tries to move.