DIY Lithium Ion 56 Volt Golf Cart Battery Conversion

Lloyd-ss

Active Member
4 Year Update on the Lithium Ion Battery Conversion.

Guys, I have to call this DIY project a total success.

It has been over 4 years, and almost 1,000 miles as a used-hard farm cart, and it is still going strong, but if I die, this cart probably will, too. My wife and kids and grand kids all love it, and it has been used for everything from bringing packages up the 1/8 mile hill, to pulling logs out of the woods to pulling a carts full of dirt. Yes, it does need some TLC every now and then.

As a reminder, I converted this to 48v Li-Ion batteries, a high torque A&D motor, and an SPM 125 amp controller, GRIN technologies info display.
Here is the TLC it has needed in 4 years.

1, Had to upgrade the controller from an SPM 175 amp to a used (for cheap off ebay) 300 amp. This failure was kind of anticipated.
2. Another cheap 5 amp 48 volt charger
3. A "real" 5k foot pedal to replace the home made pot I adapted.

And that's about it.
BTW, I never did install a BMS, but check the cell voltages every few months. The cells are never more that 20 milliVolts apart. I think the reason for that is the low amperage 5 amp charger. It charges overnight and is made for Li-Ion batts. It starts out at 4.5 amps across all 7 modules, and for the last 3 hours tapers down to only 1.3 amps, and then shuts off at 55 volts full charge (actually about 90% capacity). The low final amperage allows all the individual cells to more-or-less equalize themselves. Or al least, that is my take on it. If they are still within 20 mV of each other at a nominal 7.2 volts, something is happening that is right.

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Here is a picture of the display after 4+ years, 104 charging cycles, 964 miles, and 3,246 AHr of battery use at an average of approx 51 volts. None of that was on flat land. I don't have any of that, LOL.
4yr-display-capture.jpg
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Next is a picture of a big oven socket I installed that has the nominal 48 volts going to it to plug in a 5,000 watt inverter. Works like a champ for tools out in the woods.
48v-cart-socket.jpg
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Lastly is a pair 12volt (nominal, more like 14-15v) jump posts that I use for jump starting the various small 12v pieces of equipment that I have. The display is just for monitoring the amps draw. I limit the connection to the jumper cables to about 15 seconds to avoid throwing the modues too far out of balance. That seems to be working.

12v-jump-posts.jpg
 

Pat911

Cartaholic
That’s great Lloyd. I’ve had a charger failure on my Leaf powered cart (only last week) but other wise it’s been rock solid too. The leaf modules are really high quality and that’s why yours are still reasonably well balanced. It’s got nothing to do with the slow charging.

You should really install a BMS, especially if your Wife, kids and grandkids use it.
 

Lloyd-ss

Active Member
That’s great Lloyd. I’ve had a charger failure on my Leaf powered cart (only last week) but other wise it’s been rock solid too. The leaf modules are really high quality and that’s why yours are still reasonably well balanced. It’s got nothing to do with the slow charging.

You should really install a BMS, especially if your Wife, kids and grandkids use it.
Hey Pat,
Glad yours is hanging in there, too. The 300 pound weight difference between the lead-acid and the Li-Ion made a big difference in the usefulness of the cart.

The BMS is near the bottom of a very long to-do-list. I drive the cart 80% of the time and everyone else knows to watch the display for 48 volts, and to bring it right home if they do. They know that "grandpa sees everything," LOL. Part of the resistance to installing a BMS was not quite understanding them, but I am past that now. I recently had to replace the battery pack on my 2007 Prius. First time in 16 years. I first tried replacing 2 out of the 28 modules, equalized and balanced them, and they worked fine for about a month. Then I found out that I could get a brand new Toyota OEM batt pack for $1,950, and after having replaced the 2 modules, replacing the entire pack took me less than a day. No more angry red triangles or yellow warning icons on the dash. Each time you work on something new like that, it makes the next encounter of something similar a little easier.
I will look for one of those BMS set-ups again. Maybe I will get the golf cart a Christmas present.
Lloyd
 

Pat911

Cartaholic
Hi Lloyd, good work on the Prius.

I don’t know how much current your cart draws but my go to BMS is now the JK BMS JK-B2A24S20P. It can supply 200A continuously and 350A peak and is configurable from 7S to 24S. It also has active balancing but that’s not really required for the Leaf modules, for reasons already explained above.

BMS’s aren’t complex devices. One thin wire for pack negative, one thin wire for each cell positive and one thin wire for pack positive, so 16 in total for your 7 module leaf pack. Then, all current passes through the BMS by connecting it in series with the negative cable. It had two thick cables fir this, one to the battery and one to all the loads.

If/when you’re ready to do it I can give you the BMS setup parameters for your cart/cells.

Cheers
Pat.
 
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