D&D Performance Motor Swap on a 2000 CC DS 36V V-Glide/Resistance Coil Cart

[jt283283]

I have a 2000 36v DS mostly stock. Looking at options to increase max speed and reduce speed loss up hills, etc. Looking for some advice on upgrading to a D&D 36V performance motor as opposed to other options like converting to 48V or lithium as my 6V batteries are less than a year old.

If I were to swap out the stock motor with a D&D, is it as simple as just swapping motors out and go? Do I run any risk of the upgraded performance motor burning out the resistance coils? I thought I had read somewhere that adding a controller would be required to avoid torching the coils, is this true? How difficult is adding in a controller? If a controller isn't required, is anything else needed or a good idea to add to avoid potential issues?

Any input, feedback, suggestions are appreciated. Thanks

 

[Diode]

D and D motors are the slowest motors out there.
You do it that way, it's gonna be a money pit
Save your money, do a 48 volt and an AC conversion. You'll have a cart that'll last you and do 30 + miles an hour.

 

[Golf Cart Wizard]

I have a 2000 36v DS mostly stock…. If I were to swap out the stock motor with a D&D…. Do I run any risk of the upgraded performance motor burning out the resistance coils?

Yes. And the V-glide, and the solenoid, and the FNR, and any bad connections

I thought I had read somewhere that adding a controller would be required to avoid torching the coils, is this true? How difficult is adding in a controller?

Yes. Depends, can you read a wire diagram? You will have to rewire the golf cart and add in various electrical components

is anything else needed

You will need at minimum 4awg cables, HD solenoid, heavy duty FNR. Depending on motor you may need 2+ cables and reversing contactor FNR.

You do it that way, it's gonna be a money pit
Save your money, do a 48 volt and an AC conversion. You'll have a cart that'll last you and do 30 + miles an hour.

I agree with this, a 36v resistor cart will turn into a money pit, that is not the right platform if you want a speed demon. Either do the budget 48v conversion with lead acid, clone curtis controller, and keep the stock motor (plus cables, FNR, solenoid, charger, and MCOR) or just go the whole way and go AC.

 

[jt283283]

I should've clarified on the speed increase I'm looking for - Only looking to gain an additional ~5mph or so. Currently can get around ~14 on flat paved road. Would like to get it to ~20mph and not experience the speed limitation on an incline. Definitely cannot have a cart going much faster than 20mph as we take our toddler aged children on for rides frequently.

 

[davros]

Would the stock components survive at 42V?

 

[Golf Cart Wizard]

I should've clarified on the speed increase I'm looking for - Only looking to gain an additional ~5mph or so. Currently can get around ~14 on flat paved road. Would like to get it to ~20mph and not experience the speed limitation on an incline. Definitely cannot have a cart going much faster than 20mph as we take our toddler aged children on for rides frequently.

Go reread my previous post. With all the parts you are going to have to buy to accomplish that you are pretty much at the price of the AC conversion. And 20mph is not going to happen with 36v unless you are going downhill. With the AC conversion you can limit the speed to whatever you want, and there is very little speed loss going up hill, any series motor 36v or 48v will lose significant speed up hills because the field is in series with the armature and the increase in field current (because the armature is drawing more to go up the hill) causes a reduction in speed. There is no easy way to “just get a little more speed” with a 36v resistor cart, if you don’t want to do the work sell it and buy a 48v controller cart.

 

[jt283283]

Doing the work isn't the issue, its finding the time to do the work. With three kids aged 4 and under its hard enough to find time to go to the bathroom lol. But thank you for the suggestions and info, I do appreciate it.

 

[Notsoslim]

The cheapest way upgrade a 36v resistor DS cart is to look for a salvage cart with AQ as the first 2 symbols of the serial as AQ for a good price. I saw an 06 DS yesterday that fit the bill for $800 that was wrecked in the front. It looked like some one hit a tree. The front cowl was busted and drivers side suspension was bent back. Maybe frame bent too. It would have everything you need including a set of starter batteries. You would have some spare parts you could sell to recoup some of your cash.

 

[screwball121]

I have been running 1984 club car resistor cart with D&D 10 hp motor on 48 volts for a year. Before that I ran with 36 volts for 2 years. As long as you run pedal to the metal all current bypasses the resistors. You don't want to spend much time at part throttle as resistors will get very hot. Pedal to the metal can run all day long and not effect the resistors. My 5 solenoids for the resistors are rated at 36v so I set up to power them through a resistor to lower voltage to 36v. Not a big deal. Just avoid prolonged part throttle operation.

 

[bogman]

I have been running 1984 club car resistor cart with D&D 10 hp motor on 48 volts for a year. Before that I ran with 36 volts for 2 years.

What performance differences between the two.

 

[Jeff104]

I have been running 1984 club car resistor cart with D&D 10 hp motor on 48 volts for a year. Before that I ran with 36 volts for 2 years. As long as you run pedal to the metal all current bypasses the resistors. You don't want to spend much time at part throttle as resistors will get very hot. Pedal to the metal can run all day long and not effect the resistors. My 5 solenoids for the resistors are rated at 36v so I set up to power them through a resistor to lower voltage to 36v. Not a big deal. Just avoid prolonged part throttle operation.

is the motor 36V or 48V ?

 

[Notsoslim]

As long as you run pedal to the metal all current bypasses the resistors.

You can't do that on my 48 volt cart. Ever since the lithium upgrade full throttle on anything less than a long straight road is very sketchy. I want a cart with 4 wheel brakes

 

[screwball121]

motor is rated for 36 or 48 volts. speed with 36v was same as friends ezgo txt 36v, with 48v I steadly pull away from the ezgo. never checked my speed but friend gps his ezgo at 18 mph. All flat paved ground here. My cart is a series cart. My cart has the 5 micro switches that control the 5 solenoids. Newer club cars went to vglide in place of the micro switches and solenoids. If you have vglide throttle control upgrading to 48v would require upgrading battery and vglide wiring to at least 4 gauge. Staying with 36v original 6 ga and resistors is what the 36v was designed with.

 

[Golf Cart Wizard]

My cart has the 5 micro switches that control the 5 solenoids. Newer club cars went to vglide in place of the micro switches and solenoids. If you have vglide throttle control upgrading to 48v would require upgrading battery and vglide wiring to at least 4 gauge.

The 5 solenoid setup is why you haven’t had problems, the V-glide is not capable of handling increased current no matter how large the cables. In fact, larger cables will make the problem worse because now they are passing even more current. The full pedal solution doesn’t work with the V-glide, I’ve seen plenty that melted the full speed contact with upgraded motors. You can get away with the solenoids if you drive with your foot to the floor, but not everyone can or wants to go flat out everywhere.