I converted my YDRE to Lithium and it ran slow for a short while and then stopped. I have battery voltage on one side of the Trombetta relay, and start out that way on the other side when the relay engages. Then it slowly bleeds down. I assumed it was a relay issue so I jumped the relay to test it and it still didn't want to run so now I'm wondering if I have a controller issue. It runs the Moric controller so no user adjustment/troubleshooting available to me. Any idea's how to figure this out?
Conversion to Lithium Issue 48V
- Thread starter Mouse2
- Start date
what brand, model no. and how many Li batteries?
I put in a single Vatrer 48V 105ah Lithium pack. It does come with a display and it displays about 53.3 Volts sitting at full charge. And I verified that with my fluke meter on the battery side of the relay. Like I said, if I watch my Fluke on the controller side of the relay, it starts at 53 volts and I've watched it bleed down to 30 volts and still dropping. I have no idea where it is bleeding off to.
Golf Cart Wizard
Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Did it work fine before the battery swap? What is happening is the contactor is turning on and then back off because the controller is sensing a fault or is missing an input, you are measuring the capacitor charge internal to the controller slowly bleeding down after the relay has opened.
do you have an owner's manual ?
if not google it and down load it
there is a wiring diagram in it and probably a trouble shooting chart
look at all the inputs to the controller
determine what state they should be in
voltage test
if anything is missing or wrong , test the component and fix it or replace it
check the wiring and all connectors on both sides of each one
all inputs good -- bad controller -- get an alltrax or navitas replacement
if you need help with any of these things we can do that
but you have to do the work
I had a set of lead acids that failed within two years. That is why i went to the lithium. so it was in tow mode and key off when I made the final connections to the new battery. I do have a manual and wiring diagram for it. The small black wire is connected to the negative terminal. The lights all work etc. When I switch it from tow to run the relay closes to the controller. I also get a relay click when I turn on the key. I get the correct forward and reverse functions from the switch. Pedal operation worked initially but I get nothing now. I did jump the controller to the incoming side of the relay to test if the relay went bad. It did not change anything operationally. This cart is street legal and probably ran in the low 20's before the swap. I'm not getting any faults etc off the battery pack so I assume its on the cart side somewhere. I assume my next check is the individual checks on the multipin controller connector?
unless you have 48V lights ?
you have a converter which will cause a small spark in most cases, no worries
it is not the spark that is bad necessarily , it is the spark going thru the controller
that is one of the reasons for the run/tow , to disconnect the controller logic from ALL power
jumping pack plus to the controller is a Very bad idea , same thing as leaving the tow/run in run when you want it in tow
Much better to jump to the solenoid small terminals and then use a volt meter to test for pack V
if you dont have a digital volt ohm meter
get one
auto parts house 20.00
yes it is now time to check the controller inputs
cart jacked up
key On , in Fwd, pedal down
look at all the inputs to the controller
determine what state they should be in
voltage test
if anything is missing or wrong , test the component and fix it or replace it
check the wiring and all connectors on both sides of each one
check the connector from the back side and the front side
any drop in the voltage will cause a problem
Look at the connector for corrosion, etc.
buy a can of plastic safe electrical spray cleaner and use it liberally
unplug and replug multiple times
try it again