Clutch and Belt issues

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dougbonney

Member
I wanted to share this at the request of a very helpful member. Thanks Nubs. :thumbsup:

My clutch and belt has issues and is not reacting to the demand for torque, the engine simply losses rpms when going up a hill. The engine will only turn about 2000 rpms and tops out at a speed of 13-14 mph with the governor doing very little to regulate the engine. The belt is not the one recommended by mfg. because it is not currently available.

Here is what the clutches look like:

Drive Clutch
DSC00904.JPG


DSC00908.JPG


Driven Clutch
DSC00907.JPG


DSC00906.JPG
 
D

dougbonney

Member
So Nubs let me know that the above drive clutch is shot. He recommended an EzGo drive clutch. They have a dust cover to keep 'em clean and they can be used on more powerful engines if you end up doing an upgrade, (which I plan to do of course). You may need an adapter to make it work depending on your shaft type.

A new one goes for around $250 and you can get a used one for $150 or less if you're lucky enough to dig one up on one of the popular auction sites.

Here's what they look like:
EzGo_drive_clutch.jpg

Picture courtesy of Nubs, props!

Nubs, again I say :thumbsup:
So the plan is to get a good clutch outfitted with the proper belt and then tweak the governor to see what the stock 9 hp Briggs will give us.

Other issues are coming soon. I hope this helps other folks that have questions about clutches and belts.

When I get the proper set up, I will post the results. Stay tuned... :D
 
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dougbonney

Member
Ok, found a used clutch like I was looking for. Found it shuffling through the old posts at BU. A member had it on ?Bay back in October and didn't sell it. Turns out he still had it. $125 shipped and he claims its in good working condition.

ezgo%20used%20clutch.JPG


I ordered the bushing from cartpartsplus.com $50 or so bucks shipped:

Clutchadapter.jpg


So now I'm prepping the shaft for the swap. From what I'm seeing, looks like I'll have to drop the pan to get the old clutch off and the replacement on. I'll post it up when I get er done.
 
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dougbonney

Member
Men :hattip:

Got her today:

Looks a lot better than the other one...

I held it in place just to size it up, looks like the best way to get it on will be to just dis-mount the motor and slide her over so I can get it on. Yea, get it on :yes:
 
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dougbonney

Member
Question about the tapered shaft retrofit to straight:

The instructions state you must trim the shaft so that it extends 1/8th of an inch beyond the collet. When I
mock this up the shaft extends an inch or so beyond the collet. But when I tighten everything down
the shaft does not seem to bottom out inside the clutch. If it all goes together and tightens down, is
there any need to cut the shaft?

DSC00949.JPG
 
Nubs

Nubs

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
i think as long as the clutch tightens/clamps the adapter to the shaft you should be good, your stock spacer is longer than most. the crank will go into the clutch about 1-15/16 before its bottoms out in the clutch.

how is the belt alignment?
 
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dougbonney

Member
Well I thought it was going to be perfect, (alignment), but when I tightened it up completely, it didn't ride
up on the collet as far as I anticipated. Now that :censored: is on there tight. What is the size of the bolt
that threads into the end of the clutch so I can put a small drift pin or something in there to pull it off?

C'mon, I know you know.....

Thanks for any help. :hattip:
 
D

dougbonney

Member
This is about as close as I could get it...

DSC00964.JPG

Tough getting a picture that can truly show alignment...
DSC00955.JPG


I need to bend the accelerator rod a little to clear the dust cover and re-adjust length, old clutch didn't have one.
DSC00956.JPG


The only belt I have now is 1 1/8", and it looks like this clutch should have a 1 3/16". So alignment will
prolly go out the window when I put one on. But for now it looks to be operating properly on jack stands in
gear. It's a little too tight as well. No slippage when at idle, but seems to work otherwise.

It was a real biach to get the alignment as close as it is. The starter has no adjustment in that regard without
making a new bracket and shims, and a whole lot of other plumriggin. And replacing both clutches I figured
I would align with the starter/generator. The driven clutch's spring torque is not as high as the one I took off. I'm
curious as to how that will present in performance.

If it stops raining tomorrow I'll do a little testing. I took the breather-in-a-can off and waiting on a K&N, so can't
really take it out while it's wet. I hate a breather in a can, cans are for beer.

So what do you think? Anything look suspect?
 
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dougbonney

Member
Initial testing indicates overall positive results. Clutches respond to demand for torque with higher rpms just as they should. New set up first run yielded 18 mph with governor limiting rpms after the 18 mph is achieved. It doesn't take long to get there either...:)

Motor seems to be running very smooth. It improved after new plug, then better when gap set properly, then even better when stock breather was replaced with open filter. I suspect a modified exhaust will show more improvement.

Thank you guys for all your help in this thread. I am going to start another thread with the next adjustment/modification.

You guys are the best and Cartaholics Golf Cart Forum rocks :D

:hattip:
 
Nubs

Nubs

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
CPP sells a stiffer drive clutch spring also, gives ya more rpm's before engagement, about 25 bucks
 
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