Clutch Alignment on V-Twin Conversion

Grizzley

Grizzley

Member
I think I have a small problem with my primary clutch alignment with my secondary on the v-twin conversion. When the primary is fully engaged (at top speed), the moving side of the clutch half is not aligned with the stationary side of my secondary clutch half. It is probably off around 1/2". Would this cause the belt to run at an angle? Wouldnt that put a lot of stress on the belt and the moving side of the secondary clutch? I have had some problems with the snap ring poping off of the secondary. Would my top speed be affected by this? The side of my Honda aligns with the side of the differential, is this like everyone else with the honda or do I need to realign the engine?
Any info greatly appreciated,
Gregg
 
Keyguy

Keyguy

Overworked, underpaid :o) R.I.P.
Grizzley,
When I went to the Honda I aligned the clutches so at WOT they line up.
I may be looking at this wrong but I don't see any way to achive perfect alignment at low rpm as well as high rpm. ;)
The drive clutch sheave moves in towards the engine and the driven sheave moves out away from the differential, constantly varying the alignment.
I guess the best way is to find a happy medium or set it for the way you mostly drive, low rpm or wide open.
I would guess you would get the most "wear" at high rpm so I opted to align mine that way.
Interesting subject though!
I too would be interested in hearing others opinions also.....

Jimmy B.
 
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ruredy

New Member
Sorry Greg I ment to do this when you had posted this question but forgot till just now when I was reading Bob's post where you asked for pic on the clutch. so I ran out side and snaped a pic for you
On the ezgo, the inside driven sheave moves towards the center of the rearend, the belt running up the drive clutch fixed sheave should stay inline with the movement of the driven sheave as it travels inwards.
The belt and clutches should stay inline at all times. If yours does not (different belt lengths may throw it off a little) I would go with keyguys suggestion about getting it inline at WOT. If you need better pics just ask, I can get them tomorrow
 
Grizzley

Grizzley

Member
Thanks ruredy, I cant tell from the pic, but which(if either) of the driven clutch sheeves are closest to being inline with which of the drive clutch. (IE. when the engine is off, is the stationary half of the driven clutch aligned with the moving half of the drive clutch?) or vice versa?
Gregg
 
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ruredy

New Member
I'm not sure if you can use just one side to line it up. I know the outer-most part of the driven clutch should line up with the inside of the drive clutch. You know most ezgo's are not adjustable cause the engine is bolted to the rear, so this is fairly new ground i'm walking on here. I would use a peice of 2" tape, masking, clear, or duct to wrap around the driven and run it to the drive clutch and space it equal amounts on the sides. you'll be able to tell from the deflexion of the tape if and how far its off.
If you get the pullys in-line, center through center it should work cause the belt should move equal amounts to the inside on both pullys reguardless of way the sheaves move
 
Grizzley

Grizzley

Member
The reason I ask about which clutch halves line up is because I figure that EZ-GO has them pretty much they way they need to be. And I figure that if I set my clutches approximately with the same alignment that they use, then they will work the way Ezgo designed them. On my cart, the top of the moving side of the drive clutch is more in line with the moving side on the driven clutch. It seems to me that the belt would be in a bind at WOT. The side of my engine and the side of the diff case are lined up. I will probably just keep trying to align it by ear.LOL Or trial and error. Thanks for all the input.
Gregg
 
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ruredy

New Member
No matter what, the belt and pullys should be inline at all time. at WOT or even at an idle. the belt moves on the driven the same amount and direction as it does on the drive. This amount is dictated by the slopes of the clutches. On the drive, as speeds increase, the belt runs up the fixed sheave being pushed towards the inside by the moving sheave. At the same time the belt is running down the fixed sheave of the driven, also being pushed towards the inside cause of the angle of the slope.
The CVT has to work this way, if the belt and clutches were not lined up, it would cause premature wear and failure of belt and/or clutches
 
B

Bob-o

Member
Grizz.

If using E-Z-GO clutches....

9 Deg angle from driven to drive

Outer driven sheave to inner drive: 1-3/16

clutch-alignment-01.jpg

clutch-alignment-02.jpg
 
Grizzley

Grizzley

Member
Thanks a bunch guys, it seems that my clutches are WAY outta line. That might explain why my driven clutch kept popping the snap ring off. When you nail the throttle, the drive clutch pulls the belt over way too far, even when the driven is at top revolution (opened completely) my belt runs at an angle. Would it hurt anything to shim the drive clutch over with a washer on the shaft of the motor? Wouldnt life be hard without forums!!!
Gregg
 
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ruredy

New Member
The farther out you move the clutch the more leverage it will have on the shaft, i'm sure you can shim it some and not hurt anything, the real question is how much can you go before it boogers things up. How much do you need to move it?
 
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