Club Car Won't Run Sometimes

bell8116

New Member
Club Car Won't run sometimes. If i push pedal numerous times will take off. The problem comes and goes. Same prob. in forward and reverse. I hear a clicking sound in rear of cart and a slick jerk but no movement
 

Andy4639

Member
First what kind of cart are we speaking of? Give some basic history, have you changed anything recently? This will be a lot of help in figureing what is going on with the cart.
 
What year is the golf cart? Is the F&R a toggle (push button) or a lever? 36 or 48v? Give us this info and you will get the ideas pouring in! :usa:
 
It could be in your Pot box under the cart! That is the potentiometer. It kinda sounds like that could be the prob. Im sure someone else would be here in a few to comment on that!
 

Andy4639

Member
The POT BOX is on EZGO's not Club Cars.

Check the F/R housing for signs of heat and the contacts are good and tight. Sounds as if you have something loose, check all the cables with a good tug on them and see if they come apart or move. If they move tighten them up good.
If the f/R looks good look at the V-Glid between the batteries and clean the contacts real good inside. There is a micro switch inside it too! Check it also.
The contacts are what give you the differant speeds of the cart. :hattip:
 
The 95-96 Club Cars have a little potentiometer in the box where the mcor box is on the new ones. I had to replace one two months ago. I know the older E-Z-GO's have the big pot box. Well at least I think you would call it a pot in the Club Car?
 

Andy4639

Member
Yep OK I agree with that, just most don't call it a pot box in a CC. Cool. Those are a pain to swap. I had one a couple years ago it took me forever to figure out what it was. Most just call them mcor box.
 
YES THEY ARE!!! I believe that they don't make the one anymore.... I know they changed it in 95-96 and they discontinued one. So I hope thats not the prob, not to mention they are not cheap. :p
 

golfdog

Member
Had the same problem with a golfing partners cart last week a 95 CC. turned out to be the solenoid. The clicking noise was the solenoid closing but the high current connectors inside the solenoid were either corroded or carboned up and not allowing the current to pass. So sometimes the cart went and some times you just felt a little jerk. A bit like a motor vehicle when the starter solenoid starts playing up.
 

matthewthamm

New Member
I have the exact problem. However, I do not want to buy parts without insuring i have isolated the problem. This is on a 96 stock Club Car. Batteries are fully charged. I have taken apart the F/R switch and cleaned the contacts. Solinoid or "pot" which is it?
Does someone have a troubleshooting guide?
My wife can't scoot around the park!! Thanks for your help.

Matthew Hamm
Las Vegas
 

golfdog

Member
I isolated the problem by bridging the large posts on the solenoid with a 6 gauge battery cable. The cart then went fine, so I replaced the solenoid and all's well. If the cart has the continuously variable potentiometer (small black box under the accelerator pedal) the manual shows it being tested with a "Calibration Test Module" a piece of equipment I don't think many of us have. If by any chance it has the Multi-step Potentiometer ( largish quarter circle shaped box behind battery #5. then it can be tested with a multimeter. I am a bit reluctant to describe my method of bridging the solenoid because of the danger of batteries and sparks, but if you are prepared to accept the potential danger here it is. Disconnect the positive terminal of battery #1 then the negative terminal on battery #6, place the fwd/reverse switch in reverse and discharge the buzzer capacitor. Move switch back to neutral. Turn off the ignition switch. Raise one of the rear wheels off the ground, bridge the large posts of the solenoid with 6 gauge wire. Reconnect #1 positive battery cable then #6 negative battery cable. BEWARE YOU ARE NOW IN THE DANGER ZONE. WHEN CONNECTING THE NEGATIVE CABLE TO THE BATTERY THERE WILL BE A SPARK AND A SHARP BANG. I have done it many times and it still startles me. Make sure all battery caps are secure and the area well ventilated. Battery fumes have been known to ignite and batteries explode. Turn on the ignition switch, turn the fwd/reverse switch to fwd, press the accelerator and the wheel that's raised off the ground should start turning. Release and depress the accelerator a few times to make sure the results are consistent, if they are replace the solenoid, if not then its not the solenoid that's the problem. Maybe someone else has a better plan than mine. Good luck
 

riverrat46

New Member
I have a 2006 Club Car Precedent and mine did about the same thing. Turned out to be the speed control sensor on the motor.. very easy to change but about 150 bucks... :twocents:
 
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