Club Car With Honda 24 HP Engine 4 Wheel Drive Conversion


New Member
I wanted to share my experiences building my 4 wheel drive 24 HP engine Club Car golf cart conversion.

I started way back in December '06 and am just starting to finish up the initial portion of the project.

Some background - I am putting together a '93 Gas Club Car golf cart. My intent is to drop in the 24hp Honda and the Imgainative Manufacturing 4x4 kit. I plan to use the cart on my small farm in Central Texas and at our family ranch in deeeep South Texas.

I lurked around the Buggies Unlimited forum for a long time gleaning information before I started this build. Most of ya'll have some pretty amazing carts and your craftsmanship is outstanding. This cart is intended to be a working vehicle and is not intended to be a show cart, but I hope that ya'll will like some of the things I put in/on the cart.

This is what I started with. I picked up this cart from a local dealer without an engine for what I thought was a good price. NO, I won't tell what I paid for it because if it wasn't a good deal, I don't want to know. I started my tear down and discovered a pretty dirty cart and some parts missing like the little puck that goes in the throttle box.

I read all of the posts about engines and decided upon the 24hp Honda for my own reasons and chose Helmuth Repair as my supplier after checking several places for price and shipping. Then it came and I couldn't believe it!

I made the call to Helmuth and sent them photos of the damage. They had me take it apart and ensure the damage was limited to the shroud and bottom bolts. Helmuth came through and got me the new parts PDQ
and all was right with the world once again!!

Back to Cartaholics Golf Cart Forum I went and began researching the clutch issue. I decided upon the 94C. I had to cut the shaft to get the length down so that it will fit in the engine bay. This is discussed at length in the forum, but still scared the hell out of me to cut it. Then I had to special order a 7/16" regular thread bolt to bolt the thing on. Not a single place in Waco carried a 7/16" bolt long enough.

I ordered my 4x4 kit from Imaginative Manu. and took my differential out and shipped it to them so that they could machine the output shaft.

While I waited for it to come back, I decided to finish cleaning some parts. The first to tackle was the engine pan which was pretty ugly. I never ran across any help on how to clean it up so I started in on it.

In the mean time, I needed to decide what I was going to do about the body. I went back and forth from a using a camo kit to some sort of durable paint. In the end, I decided to use a product called Durabak. It is a UV stabalized rubber paint like Rhino lining or Line-X but is much easier to apply and doesn't cost nearly as much.

Before painting, as you all know, there was a lot of sanding and fitting of lights.

Because of the holidays, Imaginative iwas backed up and agreed to send me the rest of the kit while they finish machining the differential. It comes on a pallet and weighs a couple a hundred pounds.

It came three night before Christmas and I had to start on it that night, much to my wife's dismay. I put together part of the front assembly the first night, just to get my cart fix in. The first major step is to completely take apart the stock front end. Bolting the front diff on only requires using existing holes and drilling two new holes.


New Member
Once that was done, I hung all of the other front end parts and tightened the bolts. I still needed to order my spacers, but just for grins I hung one of my wheels to get the effect. I also laid the front cowl on. Its was pretty sparse without a bumper and brush guard that have come since and it was obvious that it needed fender flares for both looks and function.
The frame needed to be notched so that the steering shaft could reach the correct angle. I bought a Hyepertherm 110v plasma cutter a few years back and this is just the thing that it is good for. Takes longer to get it out and plug in the air than it does to cut the metal.

The tires are Carlisle AllTrail II's 24x10.5x10 on BU's 10" Camo rims. I orignally wanted black rims, but was having a hard time finding 10" in the flat black and BU had the Camo's for the same price so I went with them. I did have to use a different supplier for the tires as BU doesn't carry this size and didn't seem real interested in getting them for me.

So with the front of the kit finish, I started in the back. The first thing to do was to weld the new spring perches on the axles. After test fitting, I found that they overlap nicely with the stock springs which works out well. After welding and clean up, a little flat black epoxy paint and we've got new axles.

The instructions said to use the bushings from the stock springs, but I plan on using the old springs on a trailer later and I just like the idea of using new ones. That being said, I finally had to go to a specialty spring house to find the 37's that would fit. I don't have a press, but I figured out that an oversized clamp works as well on lots of things.

In the mean time, I began working on the cosmetic side of things. I cut a piece of metal usually used around wood burning stoves to use as a heat shield on the bottom of my new seat assembly. I started fabbing my seat mount - still waiting on a suitable console to go between the seat. I did finally get my differential back from Imaginative on Friday 1/19.

I had been working on using Ford Escort rotors as my front brakes. But I abandoned the idea and bought some different front hubs that have integral brake discs on them. I didn't have the tools to separate the original hubs from the struts so I took them to Ledford Racing in Waco and they did it for!

I put the axles back on the differential and then began assembling the pan, axle, spring combination and ran in to a little issue on the right side. The supplied u-bolt worked on the left, but when I welded the right spring perch on the axle it got just a hair too wide and the u-bolt would not, with any amount of coaxing, work. I went and got threaded rod to replace the u-bolt. I cut the tops off and so far they seem to be working well.


New Member
I got on the Monroe page and figured out that rear shocks from a '65 International Scout had the right mounting points and length. When I went to autozone they gave me the Gabriel eqivalents. I think they'll do fine. I ordered my new snubber from Buggies Unlimited and fabbed a drop bracket. When I put it together and checked it with a level, it was right on the money.

I prepared the engine plate to take the 24hp Honda by adding additional mounting points. The engine uses the front mounts and the new mounts. The hoist is a little over kill for an engine that only weighs 110lbs., but it makes a one man operation tolerable. I trimmed the throttle box to make way for the giant engine. It is obvious to me now why one of the very first posts discussing the 24hp Honda was titled "Big Shoehorn".
The rear of the engine actually misses the tranny by a paper width. The front is a little better , but not much. I am going to have to keep an eye on the oil cooler to make sure it doesn't contact the bolts from the drop bracket.

I cut it about an inch from the heads, flipped it over, cut the 180 off, cut it in half and turned it down a little and put the expanded portion on the end. The exhaust will go between the engine and the differential and then turn towards the rear between the differential and the left rear tire.

I picked up a Rhino bumper off of ebay for $30. I am all about fabbing stuff, but for $30 it's going on the cart. I had to fab some brackets for it.

Finally got the right sprocket in from Imaginative so I can make the elusive rear to front connection. The first difficult thing was placement of the Curtis 90. The bracket that Imaginative supplied had to be ground down a bit so that the 90 would mate to the bolt holes in the bracket. Then the leafs had to be compressed and the 90 was coaxed in to place with a rubber mallet and a 2x2.

The chain that they provided was way too long and they said, "oh, just shorten it".......super........except I don't own a chain link puller and most folks around don't have one that will work on a double chain like this and I didn't want to wait for the week. So a punch, a sledge and a c-clamp did the trick. Oh, yeah and a couple of hours trying not to smash my hand.

The drive shaft went on as described except that I pushed the rear connection too far on to the 90 shaft and when I turned the shaft by hand, I broke the grease fitting off of the inside u-joint. $1.88 trip to Tractor supply fixed it, but it was a stupid mistake.

While building the cart I found a weld that was broken and a crack in the frame at the rear just above where the shackle goes. I figured now was as good a time as any to get them fixed. It cost me a whole $30 and he even touch up a couple of other "areas of concern" on the frame. I am very pleased. I couldn't have purchased a spool of aluminum wire and gas for my Mig for that cost.

I have been fighting an electrical issue. Long story short, I downloaded the Honda wiring diagram and hooked it up. Started blowing a fuse whenever I turned the key. Found out from Fairlane, Keyguy, WALKNTALL and others that the Black/Red wire is supposed to be a switched negative, not a switched positive as shown in the diagram. I ended up taking it to a small engine shop in Waco called Landscape supply and Andy figured out very quickly that I had blown the crossover coil diode. He fixed it under warranty and I will be picking it up Monday. Hopefully from here on out the reassembly will go quickly.


Excellent post on the details of your project. This looks like its going to be a GREAT cart when it's completed. Please keep us updated on this one for sure. And thanks for posting all the fine details. :cool:


This post has a lot of great info. You have inspired me, this will probably be my next project on the old EZGO golf cart.


Overworked, underpaid :o) R.I.P.
Excellent post and quite informative! :thumbsup:
Like Rod asked, please keep the updates coming. Can't wait to see the finished product! :D
Jimmy B.


New Member
Glad to do it guys. You may or may not realize that ya'll have had a significant impact on this project. You have gotten me past some issues that appeared on the face to be significant, but since ya'll have done most of this before got me through with little issue. I am going to save my editorial about the various companies that I have dealt with until the end of the project. Once finished, I hope to do a head to head comparison with a buddies' Rhino 650.


New Member
I bet that was some sweet music. I played the vid and it was a relief to hear it run. I am real happy for you. I'm glad you didn't get discouraged. Congratulations buddy I don't know if I was any help but you keep my # and call anytime. If you're ever in Az give me a call. And welcome to Cartaholics Golf Cart Forum.


New Member
That's the beauty of the forums is that after I talked to you on the phone and you confirmed that the wiring was correct then I knew that something more was wrong. I spent a good two hours getting the idle set and the throttle linkage figured out. I had to buy a 1 1/4" belt in order to get the right length, so until I get it worn in, the clutches don't stop turning even at the slowest idle possible. This weekend, I am going to try to finish all of the little things.


New Member
Put the chassis up on jack stands to test the 4wd for the first time. Cranked the motor, pushed the accelerator, flipped the switch to engage the front diff. and.......nothing. I figured something was wrong with the electric engage in the Hilliard diff. because I knew that it was getting 12v, because I have a dash light(incandecent) in line with the power going to it. Scott at Imaginative told me to hook it up direct, just to be sure before I sent it back. Well to my amazement, the dash light must have been drawing too much power and not allowing it to engage. So good news, I'll replace the light with an LED and we'll be in business......wrong......when it was engaged, I discovered that the front wheels were turning the opposite direction from the rear wheels. After another call to Scott, it's not a huge deal, just change out the Curtis 90 box in the drive train for one that turns the other direction. Well, not a huge deal, just a giant pain in the arse and sets me back another week. So I moved on to other issues. I fabbed my rear bumper with receiver hitch and fabbed a receiver hitch for my front bumper. I plan on using a winch on a hitch platform and I finished my roll cage. I have to go out of town on business, but will try to get some pics once I get paint on the fabbed parts.


New Member
After months of looking and testing and buying and returning, I have decided to run Wilwood Dynalite Single brake calipers. (part#120-4062) and the Wilwood High Volume Aluminum Master Cylinder – 7/8” bore (part#260-6765).

I had originally tried to use Kelsey-Hayes Razorback Calipers and a HB Sidewinder MC, but Kelsey-Hayes would never provide order information to the distributor that they sent me to. The Wilwood option is cheaper and everybody I have heard of that has used their brakes have been happy. I ordere today so I should get my parts next week.


Wilwood Brakes are top notch.. I use them on all of my race cars and use them on any cars I build. You will be very happy with them I'm sure.

I think I'm as anxious to see this cart completed as you are. :cool:


New Member
I am so close I can taste it. We are having a family reunion down at the family ranch in South Texas on the weekend of April 20th and I would really like to have it to get around down there. If all goes well, I can have it all buttoned up except for the bed I am going to build.


Well-Known Member
This project is remarkable! What a great job you are doing! Thanx so much for sharing. I feel as if I have turned a few wrenches with you!

It is petty obvious that this "kit" is not quite ready for prime time, but it's good to see that Imaginitive is working WITH you. They owe you something nice when it's all done and working.

Front and rear wheels spinning in opposite directions?!?!? I wish I could have seen the look on your face! LOL!!!

Keep it comin'!


New Member
The funniest thing was my 7-year old walks up while they are spinning opposite directions. Looks at them and then looks at me. Assuming Dad is dumber than a rock, he points out the minor problem. I played along and thanked him for his help. Maybe when he is in his 30's. I'll be smart. ;)


New Member
I am going to try and finish the seat and center console this weekend so that I can take it for the first test drive.