Club Car Will Move Forward then Stop

Mustang363

New Member
Hi guys newbie here. So I have a 95 48v Club Car DS and for some reason when I step on the pedal it will move forward for half a second then stop. It has brand new batteries which voltage is dead on. I also put a brand new forward/reverse switch. I was told to jump the two big posts on the solenoid which I did and the cart will work. Also the solenoid is not clicking. So I just put a brand new solenoid in and still the same thing. I was also told to unplug the two wires going into the mcor and jump those. So I did that, but still not working. I’m at a loss here and don’t really know what to check next. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
 

Zman

Cartaholic
What do you mean voltage is dead on the new pack? You mean you have 50 volts? Did it run before the new batteries?
 

Mustang363

New Member
Yes, 50 volts and batteries are 8.8. No, it did the same thing with the old batteries. The old batteries were 7 years old and I had them tested and they weren’t holding a charge. I definitely needed the batteries, so I figured that was part of the problem. But still the same.
 

Zman

Cartaholic
I suspect the OBC is not working or not letting controller work. In the resource section up above go to the Club Car section and look for the OBC reset procedure
 

Rstaley

Cartaholic
I’d take a look at the small terminal on the solenoid to see if it is going to B- when the accelerator is depressed. It has a yellow wire on it that goes to the OBC (On Board Controller) that makes the connection to B- when the OBC is happy. Its purpose is to keep you from moving the cart while the battery charger is plugged in. If you jumper that terminal to B- and everything works, the transistor inside the OBC is probably gone. You can live without that function and just leave that terminal on B- all of the time, you just won’t have the “do not go with charger plugged in” feature. As long as the rest of the OBC’s functions work (like turning on the charger and shutting it off), you should be fine. Through the years, I’ve had to add that jumper to many of them. Good luck, Ron.
 

Mustang363

New Member
So I’ve noticed that I do not have a yellow wire on the small terminal on the solenoid that goes to b-. Here’s a pic of what it looks like. 269EBE5C-7BC7-4DC0-BA8A-3198DFCCBFA7.jpeg EC83DF8F-DDAE-4552-908C-49683DA92743.jpeg FF6EA0B1-001B-4144-9836-95F47FBC3793.jpeg
 

Rstaley

Cartaholic
From the picture, I can’t see anything connected to the negative side (small terminal on the right). Maybe it’s there and I just can’t make it out, but that is where a yellow wire should come off and go to the OBC. I see two wires on the left side of the solenoid’s positive small terminal along with the diode, which is in the correct polarity, but I only see the diode anode on the terminal on the right. An the left side, the red wire probably goes to pin one of the controller and the other (I think black and white) probably goes to the F/R micro switch, but that’s all I can see. I’ve included a schematic that should be roughly the same as yours. You may have a different potentiometer for the controller, but the part you are working on should be roughly the same. Perhaps you can take a look at it and see if points you in the right direction. Good luck, Ron.

club-cas-ds-wiring-diagram-01.png
 

Mustang363

New Member
Ok so I found the yellow wire that’s supposed to be on the small terminal. Someone cut it and put it directly to the negative of the first battery with an inline fuse. Should I just take it off the negative battery post and put it right onto b- on the controller? Sorry for being a pain. 😬
 

Rstaley

Cartaholic
I’m a bit confused (I usually am) about the yellow wire. It sounds like maybe someone was already trying to perform the surgery I recommended before (taking the negative small terminal directly to B-) but maybe when you changed out the solenoid (or whoever did) things got changed. If they cut the yellow wire and connected the end that should go to the solenoid to B-, and didn’t connect anything to the solenoid, that wouldn’t work. Do you have anything connected to the negative small terminal on the solenoid at all? Good luck, Ron.
 

Mustang363

New Member
Thanks Ron I appreciate your help. The one small terminal has red and white wire going to the front of the cart. The other small terminal has nothing connected. But they are both connected together with the yellow diode wire. The yellow wire that comes off the Obc has been cut and goes to the battery-. Hope this helps you understand. Sorry, I never really worked on these before. My friend always did who recently passed so I’m trying to learn. Thanks again for helping me.

image.jpg
 

Rstaley

Cartaholic
Yes. The way it was (like the schematic shows) originally, was that the yellow wire was on the negative small terminal of the solenoid on one end and the went to the OBC on the other end. It was the OBC’s job to connect that end to B- (through an internal transistor) to allow the solenoid to energize. It doesn’t make any sense that the wire would still go to the OBC on one end and be connected to B- (lowest point in the battery pack). It does no good to take the OBC to B-, it’s the solenoid that that has to go to B-. I’d just run a wire from the small (negative) terminal to B- and see if everything doesn’t work. You’ve GOT to energize that solenoid and you can’t do that with just one wire on its coil side (the small terminals). Good luck, Ron.
 

Mustang363

New Member
I can’t thank you guys enough! It works!!!! Been a really hard time lately without my buddy here (who was my go to guy for electric stuff). Can I just leave it the way it is, or do I need to get an Obc? If I do need the Obc, I can’t find the exact one I have. The only number I have on there is version 1.20 which apparently is ancient! There’s no plugs like the ones I’ve researched. The wires off the Obc just go directly to the speed controller. Will I have any issues with it charging now? I have the original club car power charger. Thank u so much!
image.jpgimage.jpg
 

Rstaley

Cartaholic
As I mentioned before, in its original configuration, the OBC did three things. One was to prevent you from moving the cart while the charger was plugged in. This one (if you ran a jumper from the small negative terminal to B-, which I assume you have) is not active anymore. The next function was to look at the battery pack’s voltage when you plug the charger in and see if it was high enough to turn the charger on. If the battery pack was really low, it wouldn’t turn the charger on (for safety reasons). The other thing it should do is to determine when the batteries are charged and shut the charger off. I highly doubt that yours will shut off automatically, because I think someone has bypassed the OBC. The “plug” is where the negative B- wire from the battery pack used to go through to get to the controller. There is a sensor in the OBC that determined when all of this automatic stuff happened by monitoring the current flowing through the system while charging. I think that you will find that your charger receptacle wire (the negative one) now goes directly to B- on the battery pack so that the OBC’s function has been totally eliminated. In order to make that work, they had to have modified some other wiring to turn on the relay in the charger without the OBC working. The only effect will be that the charger won’t shut off automatically. You’ll either have to do it manually (after the meter indicates that the batteries are charged), or eventually opt for an automatic charger. Sorry for the long answer, but I don’t know any way to shorten it up. Good luck, Ron.
 
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