Club Car Has Spark But Won't Start
- Thread starter RAB93DS
- Start date
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Did the cart run when you removed the rev limiter ground wire?
Feedback thus far for those interested in future troubleshooting.
Ignitor did not fix issue and I believe I understand the ignition system know.
Ignition system operation:
The single wire (mine is white) from the Electrical Box feeds the Rev Limiter/Ignitor & Coil (Green wire after splice).
The Rev Limiter (RL) when engine is running monitors the frequency of discharge signal from the Coil. When exceeded, it will short to ground until the RL is below the max allowed.
Thus, removing the Ground wire from the RL will bypass the shorting to ground operation and allow you to over Rev if you so desire.
If RL is shorted all the time, this is 1 possibility for no spark.
Ignitor is a basicly a charge device capacitor. It stores the DC energy from the wire and discharges it quickly and then recovers quickly for the next Coil firing. If this device is bad, you get no spark.
So, RL can be bad/good/disconnected and Ignitor bad, you get no spark. If ignitor is good and Coil is good you should have spark.
The Coil has a magnetic pickup block screwed to the crankcase coiling fin (front of engine under the cover where the coil wire goes) Access to this is a bear. This is where the Timing comes from to fire the coil/plug.
Conclusion,
I do not have an electrical igintion system issue.
To be continued......
Ignitor did not fix issue and I believe I understand the ignition system know.
Ignition system operation:
The single wire (mine is white) from the Electrical Box feeds the Rev Limiter/Ignitor & Coil (Green wire after splice).
The Rev Limiter (RL) when engine is running monitors the frequency of discharge signal from the Coil. When exceeded, it will short to ground until the RL is below the max allowed.
Thus, removing the Ground wire from the RL will bypass the shorting to ground operation and allow you to over Rev if you so desire.
If RL is shorted all the time, this is 1 possibility for no spark.
Ignitor is a basicly a charge device capacitor. It stores the DC energy from the wire and discharges it quickly and then recovers quickly for the next Coil firing. If this device is bad, you get no spark.
So, RL can be bad/good/disconnected and Ignitor bad, you get no spark. If ignitor is good and Coil is good you should have spark.
The Coil has a magnetic pickup block screwed to the crankcase coiling fin (front of engine under the cover where the coil wire goes) Access to this is a bear. This is where the Timing comes from to fire the coil/plug.
Conclusion,
I do not have an electrical igintion system issue.
To be continued......
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Do a compression test. How long since the valves have been adjusted?
wass1967
New Member
Just beacause it has a spark doesn't mean the coil is any good. I worked on a few now that had a yellowish / blue spark and I thought the coil was good. I was wrong. Once I put the new coil on, It had a HARD BLUE SNAP to it. I now know what its supposed to look like when good. What does your spark look like?
The spark is blue and strong.
I did do a compresion test and it registered a whopping 10lbs.
It sucks (both plug & exhaust) more than it builds pressure.
I did adjust the valve prior to the comp test (only slight adjustment required) and the monitored the movement.
Everything seemed OK there.
How can the engine go from running to NO compression with working valves and no indication of engine failure (lockup)?
Who is a good source for rebuilt engine?
Thanks
I did do a compresion test and it registered a whopping 10lbs.
It sucks (both plug & exhaust) more than it builds pressure.
I did adjust the valve prior to the comp test (only slight adjustment required) and the monitored the movement.
Everything seemed OK there.
How can the engine go from running to NO compression with working valves and no indication of engine failure (lockup)?
Who is a good source for rebuilt engine?
Thanks
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
If the valves are set correctly I would say you either blew a head gasket, broken ring, broken piston or a problem with a valve or valve seat...
Where are you located?
Where are you located?
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
LVS sells rebuilt engines. I've never bought one from them so I can't say anything about the quality
It's really not that hard to rebuild one if you want to tackle it yourself. There's a Club Car Engine Service Manual in the resource forum here. Another option would be find a reputable small engine repair shop in your area.
It's really not that hard to rebuild one if you want to tackle it yourself. There's a Club Car Engine Service Manual in the resource forum here. Another option would be find a reputable small engine repair shop in your area.
I have had the same thing happen to my Club Cars and it has always turned out to be water contamination in the fuel. I would try ether and it would not light up, but I would pull the bowl off, clean it out, get fresh gas in it with some water burn gas treatment, and presto. Runs even better than before. I'm not saying that is what your problem is, but it doesn't cost you anything. Clean your plug, clean your bowl, check your gas, good luck.