Club Car Gas Golf Cart Broken Solenoid Terminal

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studebakergeorge

New Member
Greetings all, new owner of a 2001 Club Car gas golf cart. Bought it for peanuts after the owner insisted it be totaled A couple of kids on a joy ride resulted in a bent front end and then it sat for a while. Much to do and learn but I am a retired VW/MB tech who has returned to his Studebaker roots and now operates a Studebaker only shop. I got this cart to use as a runner in my small boneyard as I am getting old and dragging tools, jacks, torches, and my 'ol bones back and forth to pull stuff is becoming a chore. Correct me if I 'm wrong on stuff. I'm sure I will be wrong a LOT but here goes with some questions...
First, I busted off one of the posts on the solenoid and now need a replacement, looks to be a Ford style unit can be easily used? What is the jumper with the diode in it for on the two small terminals and can I wire this beast so it won't have all the safety start/idle/go/etc. It will never see a golf course again (at least as long as I am the owner) and only me and a couple other retired farts that share the shop and yard will use it.
Also, it appears that the whole front end (steering and suspension) comes off relatively easily? It looks like the damage is confined to the bending of the extension brackets and small stuff and I can straighten that. If the actual frame is bent, I can use a porta power or redneck frame machine (chains, trees, pick up trucks) if need alsthoug it doesn't look that bad and still steers, etc. One wheel is back and the plastic nose is damaged, but I see no busted parts..so far...
Hope I won't be too much of a pest, and if anyone out there is a Stude nut and needs some help or parts chime in. I have been 'addicted' to Studebakers for longer than I like to admit and am the current president of the local Studebaker Drivers Club chapter.
Thanks,
Studebaker George K.
 
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Gonzo

Tennessee Squire
Welcome George :hattip:
My Dad was Studebaker fan for years. I grew up riding in many a Lark and Hawk.
 
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DWscott

New Member
Welcome George, I didnt know anyone out there was Studebaker FAN. I had several through the years that in some cases I restored frame up and one a 1941 Studebaker Commander Delux TONE 4 door that had 110000 miles and still looked and drove as new. I won trophys with it everytime it was shown. It was shown all up and down the west coast and in many cases won BEST OF SHOW AWARDS in Studerbaker as well as open class shows. I was honored once to be (ASKED ) to show at Pebble Beach California and won BEST ORIGINAL AT THAT SHOW.
Some of my other Studes were 1938 Commander, 1941 Champion, 1937 President, 1936 Custom bodied 4 door Convertible President, 3 Power Hawks, a Packard Hawk, 1926 and 1930 Studebakers.
ON TO YOUR QUESTIONS
#1 you will need to purchase a solenoid made for golf cart usage as auto types are made to only close when starting and dont seem to stand up to cart usage. The diode is to lengthen the life of the solenoid contacts and MUST BE installed in the correct direction. FOR GOOD INFO go to ALLTRAX controller site as it answers many things about solenoids etc.
#2 as to wiring past ALL SAFETYS I would question that as it could leave you open for LAW SUITES from anyone driving it??
I know that only a few people will drive it BUT how about Grand & GGrand kids Etc, would you want to have one of them hurt?
#3 the only problem with straightening the frame if needed is that it is ( ALUMINUM ) and has to be worked in a completly different way? In many cases you will only crack it by just pulling or pushing on it. You will have to find someone with knowledge of bending aluminum.
 
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studebakergeorge

New Member
I have a 1938 Commander State (cathedral headlights) that is all original with plenty of "patina" but way too nice to restore. It is one of my drivers and is tagged and insured. Small world... I have four Studes that run and drive and are "legal". Also have about thirty parts cars. As for the cart...
Today I had some time and got it running using a Ford solenoid and a couple jumper wires. The engine runs fine, so now I feel better about spending some time and a few $$ on it. Looks like all the switches and safety stuff is working, so I will get a correct solenoid and leave it like it is. The oil pressure light doesn't work (oil pressure is fine, though, as I checked it with a gauge) and the ignition switch light doesn't work either. I recon that both of those should be an easy (hopefully) fix. I had the ass end on stands and ran it for quite a while to check everything. I lubed all the linkages and cables and all seems fine. I figured it ran as it didn't get PUSHED into the tree... the thing is in nice shape but sat for a year at the coast after the 'wreck'.
The front end looks like it comes off pretty much as a unit and the two flat pieces that go to the main aluminum frame look to have taken the hit. I think I can straighten them and a couple other parts and that should be it. The aluminum frame looks to be OK although when I get the front end off I will be able to see that better. The hit was not straight on, so that may have saved the aluminum frame most of the jolt. The thing still moves and steers although I didn't drive it due to my rigged up wiring. The driver side wheel is back a bit... Should I have to fool with the actual frame, I have torches and TIG and a nice PortaPower just in case...
 
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studebakergeorge

New Member
Latest on my cart..
Got a new solenoid and all is well..or was...
Found out in a hurry that the clutch was stuck..along with a few other things from sitting in a salt air environment for a while. Pulled off the rear pulley, took it apart, cleaned and lubed it and then gave the clutch a healthy dose of spray lube and PB blaster through the puller holes. Ran the engine without a belt and let the clutch snap in and out until it started to get smooth and then put the belt on. All is well again, drive operates just fine. Pulled the two brackets off the front end and hammered them flat again. The front end is still a tad off, but MUCH better. I don't have time right now to mess with straightening the frame although it is not bent much at all and I see no cracks. I now have one hundred thirty five dollars plus about five hours in this thing and drove it all over the yard and industrial park today. Some pics are here; https://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk36/studebakergeorge/
The spot under it is water that has been draining from the rear seat...a bear clawed the corner and then rain got in..it will probably drain for a while..
 
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BIGDAWG

New Member
that cart has a Z bar lift, maybe factory. the front sub-frame
will unbolt to replace. if you want that sub-frame assembly
let me know I have a parts cart with one complete.


BIGDAWG
 
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studebakergeorge

New Member
Thanks for the info; I assume the "z' bars are the two brackets that I removed and pounded flat..
Thew were a 'touch' bent from the tree kiss... they were pushed sideways.
I don't see anything bent on the front end assembly but have run out of time for messing with it. It seems to drive fine and it will have limited use..for now... Kind of neat that the whole front end comes off so easliy, reminds me of old VW axle tube assemblies.
It figures, though, that since I got it running and driving that it would be raining every day since...
 
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