Club Car Carryall Won't Run

D

Doc

Member
Sometime in May/June I jump into my 2000 Club Car Carryall 48 Volt cart and it won't run.
Checked all batteries & connections & found the blue wire on the F/R switch is barely hanging on.
Cleaned it up & re-crimped it-tightened it down and looked good to go!
Still No Go.
Checked and tightened all other connections, treated them w/Noalox and replaced the controller on advise from an seasoned expert.
Still No Go.
Jumped out the solenoid (big lug to big lug) with a 4ga. wire.
Cart ran.
Replaced solenoid and the diode & resister with all new.
No Go.
Jumped the 48V motor w/a 12V source. Motor ran, albeit slowly (remember it was jumped with only 12 volts)
Tested all batteries-all read 8.2 to 8.4 volts.
I am at my wits end...I keep dumping $$ into this cart and still nothing.
Other than to keep replacing parts, (the OBC, Wiper switch and F/R switch have yet to be replaced) is ther any other advice? This is killing me!!
Doc
 
HotRodCarts

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
If the solenoid is activating but the cart doesn't move unless you jump the solenoid thats usually a bad solenoid. Where did you get the replacement solenoid. Are you sure it's a 48 volt golf cart solenoid?
 
A

Andy4639

Member
You say it has the v-glide did you check the micro switch inside it? When you jumped the selonoid did it run without doing anything else? What did you do to get it to run? Did you mash the gas or did it just start running?
The OBC can be bad and still let the cart charge. What kind of controller did you replace it with?
tip.gif
 
D

Doc

Member
When I jumped th e solenoid, I turned the key to ''ON'' then it ran as normal, with the gas mashed.
I didn't check the microswitch inside the Vglide...actually I didn't see one..I'll have to dig deeper. Do you see this with the cover off from top of the cart or do you get underneath?
I replaced it with a factory new controller.
I bought the correct 48V (marked as such) solenoid at a cart shop a few towns over. Brand-new.
Doc
 
D

Doc

Member
BTW, I've had a few people tell me it might be the actual key switch. Is this likely? I never knew they could go bad~Any way of testing/checking this?
1 more thing...the amber light goes on on the dash intermittantly-please PLEASE tell me this isn't pointing to OBC problems!
Doc
 
A

Andy4639

Member
Look at this first and try it.
I'm not going to say it yet but if you jumped the selonoid and it ran then something is keeping it from telling the selonoid to activate. Check all the wiring and make sure everything is right.
With the selonoid jumped as before leave the key switch off and see if it runs when you mash the gas. This will at least tell you the circuit is working correctly.

http://www.alltraxinc.com/files/Doc120-048...lub-Car-OBC.pdf

I found some of what I wanted.
Jump your solenoid, if it runs it could be the solenoid. Another possibility is your OBC. bypass your OBC by taking a jumper wire from your solenoid - on small yellow wire - to the negitive of #6 battery, if the car runs you need an OBC. Check your dash is it a red light? If is, its the orginal OBC and they were bad for locking up
 
D

Doc

Member
Going out to try that right now...I'll post my findings in about an hour...thanks for that diagram~I printed it and its going on the wall of my garage for future reference!
Doc
 
A

Andy4639

Member
The yellow light blinking on and off all the time, yea it could be a problem. I hate those things. Best thing to do is by a aftermarket charger and do away with OBC.
twocents.gif
 
D

Doc

Member
OK, here's where we're at:
I ran the OBC resetting proceedure and this is what I got.
1) Key switch to off CHECK
2) F/R switch to neutral CHECK
3) Disc. the neg bat terminal from batt #6 CHECK
4) Put the tow/run to run N/A on this model
5) F/W to reverse CHECK (NO buzzer sound, though)
6) Lock the gas pedal down to floor CHECK
RECONNECT PROCEEDURE
1) Key to off CHECK
2) F/R switch to neutral CHECK
3) Tow/Run N/A
4) Reconnect #6 batt CHECK & HUGE SPARK!!
Doc
 
A

Andy4639

Member
Huge spark something is not turned off. Check all the wiring and make sure it's all wired correctly. You said you replaced the controller double check everything. As bad as it may seem you going to have to.
When you connect the battery pack there should be very little spark if any.
tip.gif
twocents.gif
 
D

Doc

Member
I certainly agree with that! Its getting dark out so I'll continue first thing in the A.M. I was pretty diligent when replacing that controller (digital pics, took off 1 wire at a time, etc) but I have to check something! Thanks to all who posted-I'm sure this'll continue tomorrow!
 
G

golfdog

Member
Spark and big bang indicates that there is current flowing thru the high current terminals of the solenoid (large posts). check your wiring on the small posts. Trust you have not left the large posts bridged with 4 gauge.
yikes2.gif
No reverse buzzer could be wire not connected on the middle limit switch of fwd/reverse switch (top terminal - red/white, middle terminal - orange) red/white to controller, orange to buzzer. Before replacing an OBC because you have to bypass the OBC yellow wire, do a continuity test on the yellow wire. Pierce the wire on the OBC side of the 3 pin connector with a pin and connect a multimeter set to 200 Ohms to it and to the end that attaches to the solenoid. If you have no continuity the plug is your problem. Only mentioning it as I had this problem and bypassing the plug saved me a few dollars.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top