Bypassing the Rev Limiter Club Car kf82 Engine

therock-500

New Member
I have a 92 Club Car Carry All 2 with a KF82 flathead engine that has no spark and I'm looking for information on bypassing the rev limiter. I have tried a new ignition coil/ignitor and still no spark. The exciter coil under the flywheel is no longer avalible, as I have been told, and the rev limiter is also no loner avalible.

My question is , Has any one bypassed this style of revlimiter before? It has a white wire, two brown wires ( one from the exciter coil and one to the igniter coil), a black wire, a red wire The igniter has a brown wire and a black wire with a yellow stripe.
The exciter coil has a red wire, and a brown wire to the ectiter coil and a white wire to the trigger .

Does any one have any info or a diagram on how to test the exciter coil under the flywheel?

I was hopeing to be able to replace the exciter coil, but have tried for the last 2 months and can not locate one, or a rev limiter.

So I am hoping someone has delt with this before and has succesfully eliminated the revlimiter, or has used another source for parts for this KF82 engine. I have looked at diagrams of the john deere version of the KF engine , and it uses a full stator with the trigger wired directly to the coil.( $ 350) I was unable to find a kf engine on Kawasaki web sight to see if they have a exciter coil that would work. I understand this club car KF 82 engine was specific to club car. This is the first KF engine I have delt with so I am grasping for staws here.

My other option is to repower the cart with another engine, but some of the web sights I have found that Used to have a kit , do not offer it any more at this time.

Has any one put another engine into a carry all 2 cart , that was reasonable?

Thank you in advance if you can offer me some guidance.
 

therock-500

New Member
Is it possible to eliminate the limiter??? I have tested the exciter coil and trigger. The exciter coil ( red wire) to ground has 367 ohms and puts out good A/C volts. The small trigger coil has 65 ohms ( white wire ) to ground and puts out 1.8 a/c volts while cranking. I removed the flywheel and the brown wire connects to the large exciter coil laminates to ground.

I am pretty sure the issue is the limiter. I am just wondering if it is possible to eliminate it or not?

It looks like to me that the limiter is also a small CDI unit. Am I correct in my thinking?? If so then it has to be in the circuit for the ignition to operate.

Shadowman , if you can still get a limiter, how much are they running , and how can I get one from you if my customer wants to go farther with this cart and this engine?

Do you have a diagram , or description of the inner workings of the limiter and igniton system on this KF82D engine? ( it is in a 92 carryall 2) EG9206275626

I am also considering useing a GM ignition coil and module, and use the trigger coil on the exciting coil to fire it. The 96 4.3 engines have the coil and module mounted to a bracket already and I have several of them in my shop. It would involve useing one of the micro switches to send power to the coil assembly instead of grounding it out, all I need to make it work is a trigger signal to operate the igniton module. I have worked for GM dealerships for the last 30 years, and work on small engines in the evening for a change of pace. I have used this set up on other engines and had good luck doing so . I just have to justify it to the customer , as he is running out of options to repair this cart without repowering it with another engine.

Let me know how much a limiter is, and I will see if it is worth me going through reworking this cart or just paying the price for an obsolete part.
 

shadowman

New Member
i have no workings on the limitor and as for eliminating it try disconnecting the ground tyo it and see what happens....the newer carts you can get rid of them so i don,t se why not with the older cart but the difference is the exitor coil .......i have never tryed messing with the limitors on the kf-82 i know some engines have them while others don,t but if this is a customers cart i would leave it on there cause if something happens down the road you know your getting the blame right.......if it was a personal cart thats one thing but a customers cart me i want it right........i,ll get a price and post it.
 

therock-500

New Member
The brown wire ( ground )from the limiter to the exciter coil was cut by the previous shop who worked on it , and it made no difference. I have tryed connecting the red wire, and white wire directly to the coil /ignitor. ( no spark) I am thinking there is a capacitor in the limiter that holds the current from the exciter coil until the trigger coil releases it to the exciter coil. Thats why I believe it is not going to be possible to eliminate the limiter from the system on this model. ( I was just hoping some one had before)

Let me know how much the limiter is and I will go from there and let my customer decide. ( it's his money)
Thank you for your assistance shadowman.
 

therock-500

New Member
I wired up the 96 GM s-10 4.3 v6 igniton coil and module tonight. Useing the white wire off the exciter trigger coil to fire the module, and using the brown wire from the exciter coil for the ground. ( the red wire is not used)

The ignition coil has three terminals A, B, C, And the module has four terminals A, B, C, D.

Terminals ( A) from both the ignition module and coil are for switched ignition voltage. I connected both of these wires ( 10 amp fused) to the out put side of the large main relay in the control box.

Terminal (D) of the ignition module , is the coil driver circuit and is connected to the coil teminal ( C ) Note the middle terminal B of the coil is not used

Terminal ( C ) of the ignition module is conected to ground. ( I used the brown wire in the exciter coil harness since this conects to the engine case)

Terminal ( B ) of the ignition module conects to the white wire from the exciter coil ( trigger coil, on outside of the flywheel)

The system works good, and produces a crisp blue spark that will jump a 1 1/2 " gap. ( more than engough for this engine. There is no rpm limiter in this circuit to protect from over reving engine. But it does get by the lack of parts supply for this ignition system, and there are allot of these coil set ups in slavage yards. I use these coil and module set ups on several makes of engines, as long as I can get a trigger signal off of the crank or distributor.

At least this gets this engine to run.

Shadowman, If you can locate and get me a price of the factory limiter for this engine , I will give my customer both options and leave it in his hands to decide how he wants his cart repaired.

At least this is an option to get around the limiter on this KF82 engine, and parts are avalible
from a salvage yard or new from any parts store.
 

Nubs

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
I have used the HEI ignition on 2 and 4 cycle ez go's in the past. It sounds like it works on most engines with a pulser coil :thumbsup:
 

Bigfoot67

New Member
Hi I just wanted to know if you have a wiring or schematic diagram I can use to convert my 1986 Club Car to a more conventional ignition system as my CC has no spark also and it's way to expensive to replace the defective parts. Thank you Don Bigfoot
 

shadowman

New Member
i,ll have you a price by sunday.............i,m heading out the door on my way to camp but i,ll be home tomorrow night so i,ll put you a price up.
 

Bigfoot67

New Member
Thanks a million, I somehow knew there must be a way to get a cheaper better way to bring this ignition system back online. You da man. Thanks again............ Don :hattip:
 

Bigfoot67

New Member
Tried it until my little heart couldn't take it anymore, no soap doesn't work for my Club Car.

Thanks anyway! Seems I always get a hold of something outdate, out modeded or tired out. I know I am.
 

Nubs

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Mmm, that sucks. i'm not sure what style pulser coil they use, not the right kind i guess :dazed:

sorry to hear it
 

therock-500

New Member
Shadowman, My customer took the cart with the new HEI ignition system, and said he did not care about the rev limiter. I thank you for trying to help.

Bigfoot67- You need to check the pulse coil for at least 1.5 vots A/C while cranking. This is what is needed to fire an HEI module. Since I am new to this forum I am not sure how to upload a picture of a wire diagram for you to see how i hooked it up. But it works very well.
I used an ignition module and coil that is mounted to a bracket already off of a 96 to 2000 vortec chevy engine. It dosen't matter if it is a v6 or V8. ( 4.3 , 305, 350) Both of these engines had the same type of ignition set up. It was mounted to the rt rear of the engine and is a very good system .

I did not reuse the ignition coil that was on the cart. The only thing I used was the signal from the pulse coil. When i removed the flywheel housing the pulse coil was mounted to the outside of the flywheel and a small magnet was mounted to the flywheel. My engine was a 92, and when cranking it produced 1.67 volts A/C enough to fire this system.

When I usually get one of these coils for a project I make sure I get the wire connectors off the doner vehicle for the module and the ignition coil. I have been able to get some of these coil and modules off of used engines I have installed in my shop , and this was my last one to use for now.


The ignition coil has three terminals on it. One is for ignition voltage and the other two are for the trigger from the ignition module and a tach signal.

The ignition module has four terminal, One is for ignition voltage, one is for ground, one is for the trigger signal sent to the ignition coil, and the other is connected to the pulse coil on the flywheel.

I did not use the exciter coil voltage to operate this system, I only used the ground wire to the exciter coil because it was easy to access at the plug.

To power the ignition coil and the module, I just connected the terminal from the module and coil together and ran a wire to the output side of the main power relay in the black control box.

The engine starts and stops just like it did before with the factory ignition system, but for a thrid of the cost.

If someone could tell me how to post a diagram, I would be glad to , on this system.
 
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