BAD 3PG Rebuild Kits


New Member
I posted a reply on my post about torque specs for 2 Strokes on the progress of rebuild.

Does any one have any experience with the aftermarket kits. The one I bought, crank and top end kit is not very good if you dont have a machinest.
The jug was out square and not clearanced for the piston, jug was 0 at top and .0005 at bottom. I had to square and hone for piston clearance. Supplier said to just install as they had no problems with kit, they didnt even know clearancs or specs for torque.

I installed engine and it ran like crap. Put timing light on and it was way advanced, had to retard timing at puslar plate all way,so it would start and run, and timing is still off. Advanced 3 1/2 in below mark on the cover, however many degrees that is.

I decided to run cart anyway and after about 15 or 20 min a loud pop from motor and cart no go any more. Checked fuel from pump and no flow. Thought pump was blown out, took it apart and its was fine. Pulled motor and found the seal behind clutch completely blown out of case.

I did the hei, coil upgrade has better spark, but changed back to stock ignition to check timing but no change, mark still way off. I now feel that the new crank is miss indexed, key ground wrong, causing the timing problem. If any one has experience with these aftermarket pieces
I would appreciate any help or input as how to fix this timing problem. This in not like the chevy motors I build, pull distributor and move a tooth to correct timing error or rotate to align timing mark.

Iam going to have the crank index checked to my old crank to see if they are the same, (bet not), If my old crank checks out good, rod and bearing, I may have to reinstall it so the cart will be drivable.

I would appreciate any feedback on the crank kits or top ends. I surly cant recommend wasting money on the kit I bought. Dumping good money for trash ground out of country is really frustrating. If anyone has had this problem and has a solution I would like to know.

I'll post what I find out whats wrong on my end.


Cartaholic - V.I.P.
sounds like a LVS deal. many guys ran 2 strokes with no key, just set it at TDC and time the flywheel and torque it down and see how it runs


New Member
Thanks Nubs, I've been been doing car motors too long I didnt think of that. Its worth a try. I just cant believe there would be that big of difference in cranks.

I'll let you know how it comes out.


New Member

I have moved the flywheel around and it will run in forward and bearly in reverse with pulser plate advanced and flywheel rotated 1 crank key clockwise. After a drive around block its hard to start, its like cranking with too much advance. With 158 to 160 ohms on the red and blue pulser wires and .01 volts from the wires when cranking indicate a bad pulser.
Iam lost.