98 fleet

Eldon

New Member
Hello all, my cart is a 98 fleet with a GE 4hp 4400 rpm motor and an alltrax 400 amp controller. I removed the stock motor and replaced it with this one. It worked great than it just shut down after about 2 blocks. I stepped on the accelerator a few times and it started going and then shut down soon after. Towed it home and it started to work again. When I press the accelerator very lightly the tires start spinning as if I floored it and cuts in and out. Press it a little more and it’s normal. It’s not smooth like it should be when trying to move a few inches forward. I checked for melted cables and checked all cable connections and when cart was dead I could hear the controller clicking.
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Which model controller do you have? Is it programmable?
Was the controller clicking just sitting there or when you were trying to move the cart? Triple check ALL your connections (check at motor also). If everything checks out with the connections give Alltrax a call and tell them the symptoms and let them know what motor you're using. Some Alltrax controllers need to be recalibrated for certain motors. If the cart was running fine with the stock motor and the Alltrax controller my guess would be either a bad connection or the controller needs to be programmed for the new motor.
 

Eldon

New Member
Yes it's a programmable controller. It only clicked when I tried to move the cart. It worked with the stock motor ok. I will recheck all wires then call alltrax
 

gornoman

Well-Known Member
Also, I know this sounds like a lot of work, but can you replace the stock motor? Do the symptoms remain?
 

Eldon

New Member
the stock motor has a bad bearing but I could try it any way. I think it's the controller so I will try reprogramming it first. I just need to find a 9 pin pc cord.
 

COPB

Cartaholic - R.I.P.
Why do you have to replace the motor? Can't you bench run it? I know nothing of elec. carts.
I suppose you need to have it under load to test the controller.
 

gornoman

Well-Known Member
These sparkies have open-ended motors. There is no support of the armature when the motor is removed from it's mounting point. Bench testing is destructive.
 

Eldon

New Member
Still waiting on cord to come in the mail. I've gone to Alltrax and I can download the software to change settings of the controller. Has any one done this and what settings have you tried. I can change the settings but want to know the out come of your setting changes.
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
If the field map needs to be changed for your motor you need to send the controller to Alltrax or try to con them into sending you the HEX code for your setup. You need to call Alltrax and give them the specs on your motor to find out if that's your problem...
 

Eldon

New Member
I have been speaking with tony at alltrax (very helpfull) I'm still waiting for my conector cord to change the program on the controller. When it comes in I will be contacting him and he will walk me thru the programing. What I have found so far is the coil on a stock ezgo is junk and can not handle the added load. The controller is also not programed for the motor so it has two speeds wide open or stop. After 30 sec or so the controller shuts down and will not work for a min or two. I hope this helps if anyone has ever had this problem. I will post results of programing in a few days.
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Glad to hear you got it fixed. I should have mentioned the ITS. Their's testing instructions for the ITS in the EZGO resource forum.
The programming is simple, but changing the field map requires a hex code from Alltrax and they don't always like to send it out. It's pretty much like flashing the bios on a computer.
 

Eldon

New Member
I found the testing for the ITS on DCS is there one for nonDCS. I found one on golfcartcare.com but one test said the ITS was bad and the other test says the controller was bad. I think it is the ITS. I'm stumped
 

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
To test the ITS jack the rear of the cart up and put it on jack stands. With the key on and the cart in either forward or reverse put the ground of your meter on the battery pack negative, slowly push the accelerator and on the small black wire at controller you should have 13-15 volts at activation, on small white wire you should have .5 volts at activation to 1.5 volts at full throttle. Test the black wire with it plugged in and unplugged...
 

Eldon

New Member
Ok Itested as you listed. With wires connected black post was @ 3.5 volts from start to finish no major change .1 or.2 volts as I slowly pressed accelerator to the floor. unpluged there is 13.5 volts at the small black wire post and .1 volts at the white post with no change when accelerated.
 
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