97 EZGO TXT HEI Mod Still No Spark

[Ksnyder636]

So I finally went ahead and upgraded the ignition and coil pack on my 1997 EZGO TXT since I wasn’t getting anywhere with my spark issue. Wired up, still no spark. One thing I have noticed, I checked resistance on the pulsar and I’m reading 224 ohms. Can’t find anywhere if that’s good or bad. I have a spare and it reads about the same, over 200.

 

[Ksnyder636]

Update
It now has spark!

 

[HotRodCarts]

What did you do to get it to have spark?

 

[Ksnyder636]

Well for starters I replaced all the factory wires from the 4pin plug to the pulsar and coil. They were all corroded inside the casing. So I probably had wires hooked up wrong on the hei but I eventually got it sorted out. I had the coil and plugs hooked up and I assumed once it had spark it would fire right up… so for about 2 hrs I chased my tail until I finally pulled the plugs and checked them. Spark was there, but now I have a fuel/timing issue.

 

[My two cents]

Just tried HEI conversion yesterday on a 1995 TXT Robbin engine with a pulsar pickup And it barely ran like a timing issue like yours. So I went old school as if I had points and installed a non polarized 1uf 50v capacitor across pulsar side of GM module and she runs like a top. It cleaned up input trigger signal to module. At first I tried a few different capacitors only because I have them. figured out it has to be 1uf or possibly less to run great. I used a non polarized cap because was to lazy to figure out what side was +\-

If I had a condenser I would think it work as well, did some research. they are around .22uf non polarized can’t say for certain.

I haven’t seen anyone else suggest this anywhere so you might be the first to try besides myself. Many say this HEI concept only works for 2 cycles I’m guessing with points,
I say it’s works on non-points 4 cycles now.

Also for reference my pulsar coil reading was around 20 ohms then it will glitch meter very briefly at TDC turning engine by hand when actually produces a small low voltage trigger signal.

Hopefully this is a fix for you and everyone who might be struggling with this issue.

 

[My two cents]

was driving around today and finding it felt a little down on power so before everyone gets a 1uf capacitor Im experimenting with smaller ones with better power results haven’t settled on best one yet. Will update when I’m satisfied. Here’s a picture of what’s going on so far

 

[My two cents]

Update. Don’t do this. having No real success my idea. The problem is there isn’t enough advance in timing for good power. I ended up actually used a heat gun to cut the back plastic off original igniter then also using heat carefully pealing back heat silicon material and finding the problem. There’s a group of 8 pins in middle with a cold solder issue from the many heat cycles. I ReSoldered them, reinstalled unit, working properly again. Using a timing light before and after I see this ignition box actually greatly varies timing with engine speed. I estimate 10 to 25 degrees. My dumb idea varied only slightly 10 to 12 not enough advance at speed Here’s a picture of cold soldier issue and what back of board looks like. If you want to try and repair yours you don’t need to remove everything as I did, just back side of ignition module.

This is where I would guess many failed units having same heat cycle issue. This unit generates a fair amount of heat during operation.

You also could buy a new ignition module and forget ever reading this.
I might order a ebay $12 china knockoff out of curiosity.