97 Club Car Gas Hard Start

[BurlyDeer]

97 Club Car gas didn’t run when I got it. I replaced the brushes in the s/g bc they were non-existent. Now engine turns over but gets “stuck” starting on the compression stroke. If it ever makes it over the compression stroke hump then it runs like a champ. But that’s a big if. I’ve adjusted the valves to .005 and have a battery that tests good static (12.8) and under load (11.5). Adjusted the belt to several different tightnesses with same results. Starter turns the clutch with no slipping, but stops and won’t turn any further on compression stroke. Also, reverse seems to make it over the compression stroke hump easier and more often than forward. Any ideas would help. Never run into this problem.

 

[Golf Cart Wizard]

Ride around for awhile to get the new brushes broke in and see if it gets better. If you have 11.5v at the starter (eliminate the possibility of bad connection/solenoid) it may be time for a new one.

 

[BurlyDeer]

I can hardly get it to turn past the compression stroke to ride and break in the brushes. I’ll take your advice on double checking the connections, solenoid, and wiring and testing voltage at the starter. I’ve done some reading across forums and this is not a one-off problem with these carts. I found many people with the same issue, but no one ever follows up on the threads for their solutions. I’ll try some things and let you guys know. Just never had one “stick” like that on the compression stroke. Weird. Appreciate the response, Wizard. Let me know if you think of any other solutions.

 

[Rstaley]

I would check that battery voltage not at the battery terminals, but between the negative battery post on the battery and the post of the S/G that is connected to the solenoid (while trying to start the cart). That would expose any bad connection between the S/G and the battery. The voltage should still be around 11.5 volts right at the S/G (not only the battery). Could be connections at either the solenoid or the ground to the S/G.
Goos luck, Ron.

 

[BurlyDeer]

Did some metering and during starting hesitation, the starter side of the solenoid is only getting 10ish volts initially. When it suddenly gets 12+ volts, the starter turns the engine over really well. Ordered a new solenoid. I’ll update you guys once it’s installed. Thanks for all the input.

 

[Rstaley]

Be sure not to overlook the GROUND connection to the post of the S/G. As the connection is made to an aluminum frame, there is a lot of room for issues where the wire’s connector and the frame meet up. Two dissimilar metals expand at different rates and through the years can become a source of resistance where they meet. Good luck, Ron.

 

[BurlyDeer]

Be sure not to overlook the GROUND connection to the post of the S/G. As the connection is made to an aluminum frame, there is a lot of room for issues where the wire’s connector and the frame meet up. Two dissimilar metals expand at different rates and through the years can become a source of resistance where they meet. Good luck, Ron.

Will do. I picked up a shiny new grounding strap today as well. I’ll clean up the contact point and slap it on when the solenoid comes in.

 

[BurlyDeer]

Replaced solenoid. It needed it. Original was an OEM marked one. Good voltage across the terminals with pedal depression now. Strong and solid thud/click every time now without delay. 12+ volts at the s/g terminal. Checked wires cleaned grounds. Starter barely and inconsistently moves with direct jump to starter terminals with a known good battery. I’m concluding at this point that the s/g itself may be bad and just brushes may have been insufficient. I’ll pull it back off and bench test it again and let you guys know. Aggravating little project I’ve got here, but I still appreciate any input from you all

 

[BurlyDeer]

 

[BurlyDeer]

In my defense it did indeed need brushes the first go around though

 

[Rstaley]

What does the commutator look like (the part that the brushes ride on)? The normal practice for replacing the brushes should include having the commutator “turned” on a lathe. If it is rough, it will still not make good contact with the new brushes and if it does happen to work well enough to start the engine, the rough commutator will “chew up” the new brushes in short order. Good luck, Ron.

 

[BurlyDeer]

It looked fairly smooth and without any pitting. I don’t have a shop with those capabilities within reasonable range so I just smoothed it out with some fine grit sand paper and blew out the s/g with air. When I get it off, the condition of the new brushes may give me some indication of how much “chewing” has been going on.

 

[Rstaley]

Since you are going to have the S/G off again anyway, be SURE to check for any kind of a short to ground. Before you take it apart, just look with an ohm meter, to be sure. You should read very low resistance across the armature (A1 to A2). You can even leave your meter across A1 and A2 and rotate the armature by hand and watch the meter to be sure you don’t have any “open spots”. These new digital meters kind of “go nuts” while the armature is moving (that’s another whole subject that has to do with the way the meter samples and the meter’s high impedance) but stop the armature in several places and see if you have a consistently low reading (less that an ohm or so). Then when you measure across the “field” (F1 and F2) you should also get a very low reading. However, without any wires connected to the S/G, you should get an “open” reading from all four of the posts to the case of the S/G, especially if you just blew all of the carbon out of the case. If there is still some carbon buildup between the case and the innards, you might get some ridiculously high reading (in the megohms) to the case, but it is negligible. If you get any significant reading to the case, there is probably a “short” between one of the windings and ground. If so, it’s time for a replacement S/G (in my opinion). Goo0d luck, Ron.

 

[BurlyDeer]

This is the kind of content and discussion that keeps me coming back to ask the experts when I find myself in a jam. Sometimes a hammer is the right tool for the job (and sometimes it works even when it isn’t) but having some sound technical know how and operational theory for troubleshooting problems is what does it for me. Makes me a better wrench turner. Once again, appreciate all the input. I’ll let you know how the metering goes, Ron. Thanks again.

 

[BurlyDeer]

Well, no need to ohm out the terminals. The commutator has decided to shed some teeth (catastrophic internal failure). No question about the s/g now, so I guess that answers that question. I'll update y'all when the new s/g arrives and is installed.

 

[BurlyDeer]

Final update. New s/g installed along with a new grounding strap and we’re riding again! Took a while to get the s/g here, apparently it got lost somewhere but finally arrived and in good condition. Thanks for all of the input. Lesson learned. Although it may indeed need new brushes, it may not need ONLY brushes.

 

[HotRodCarts]

Glad you got it sorted out and thank you for the follow up.