Just recently started noticing after our 96 EZ GO Medalist 36 Volt sits for a few days, it will randomly not move. after toying with the f/r for a bit it will "break free" then start shuddering. When I put it back in Forward it will just creep. After messing with the moving it back and forth a few times it will finally "break free" and work just fine the rest of the day. It's very odd. Any ideas. I know the batteries are around 5 years old but seem to hold a charge well. It almost seems like the rear brakes are stuck or something with the rear end. Help would be greatly appreciated!!!
96 ez go medalist shuddering
- Thread starter vdubb96
- Start date
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Is a series cart, no run tow switch?
If it's a series cart it sounds like the problem is the contacts in the forward and reverse switch.
If it's a series cart it sounds like the problem is the contacts in the forward and reverse switch.
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Is the forward and reverse switch on the dash? I'd start with checking ALL the cable connections to make sure they're clean and tight.
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Ok I re-read your post and see it says no run tow switch. I thought you said it had one.
You can usually tell without removing the switch by looking at the back of the switch at the cable connections if it's been hot. Seeing how the cart is lifted the HD buss bars would be a good idea. You can either buy a complete switch or buy the contact studs, buss bars, board or whatever ever else is bad separately and rebuild your switch also. Also make sure the 4 cables connected to the switch are tight. Sometimes you can get away with just sanding the contacts and tightening the cables. It all depends on how long it's been getting hot.
You can usually tell without removing the switch by looking at the back of the switch at the cable connections if it's been hot. Seeing how the cart is lifted the HD buss bars would be a good idea. You can either buy a complete switch or buy the contact studs, buss bars, board or whatever ever else is bad separately and rebuild your switch also. Also make sure the 4 cables connected to the switch are tight. Sometimes you can get away with just sanding the contacts and tightening the cables. It all depends on how long it's been getting hot.
I'm really green as far as this f/r switch stuff goes. Where is the switch located? is it directly behind the lever or is it at the end of the "rod" the f/r lever attatches too? Again I can do most things but this one is a little confusing to me, or maybe I"m just making it confusing. I know that rod runs to a a black box of some sort. Also I'm going to replace my batteries. What do yo recommend? I really don't have to many places around here, other than Napa, advanced etc.
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
The switch is under the black box the rod runs to. Remove the bolt on top of the box and you'll see the switch. There's diagrams and forward and switch rebuild instructions with pictures in the EZGO resource forum.
Shop around for the batteries, prices can vary a lot. If you have Sam's Club in your area they're the cheapest I know of. The NAPA batteries are pretty decent batteries to. How much are they from NAPA?
Shop around for the batteries, prices can vary a lot. If you have Sam's Club in your area they're the cheapest I know of. The NAPA batteries are pretty decent batteries to. How much are they from NAPA?
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
The switch is pretty easy to rebuild so it all depends on how comfortable you are with doing it. As far as swapping it out for a new one it's very easy. Just mark your cables and small wires connected to the micros switches. There's a connector (reed switch) on the small wire coming out of the charger receptacle under the seat. Unplug that before doing any work on the electrical system. If you have any questions let us know...
The napa here in town carries East Pen batteries. I can get them for $100 each. I do know I need batteries here soon. Whats the best way to tell if the switch is going bad? Is there a way to sand the "hot marks" or is it something I just better replace. Do you think hooking the stereo up caused the problem? The thing that confuses me the most is that once it finally starts moving normally at first it will make a snapping or popping sound when I put it in reverse, then it's great the rest of the day.
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Pull the cover off the switch and look at the 4 studs where the cables 4 large cables connect. If it's been getting hot you'll see the discoloration on the board right away. While your in there grab each cable connector and make sure they're tight. Sometimes you can get away with sanding the contacts but it all depends on how bad they are.
The blue arrow shows what the board will look like if there's been heat on the contacts.
The blue arrow shows what the board will look like if there's been heat on the contacts.
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
I doubt it.
OK so I took the switch out and cleaned it. Didn't notice any burn marks but it basically had 1/4 of dirt/dust all over it. I cleaned all that and sanded it a bit. Another thing I noticed was the contacts didn't seem to be touching the plate very well. So after screwing with it for over an hour and getting it all put back together and tightened down so the contacts where making good contact, it started working great. The only thing is I realized I must have put it in upside down? WHen I engage in Forward I go in reverse and when I engage in Reverse I go forward!!! HAHA it doesn't bother me that much I guess but I have no idea how I pulled that off!! I'm scared to tear it back down again!!!!
lol Don't be scared. I just replaced all my wires and cables, contacts. Ofcourse mine is older, but i tore it down to the boards and only have a couple more wires to run and fabricate a new plate for my resistor coils. It's an 86 series cart, and I cant believe how simple it is. You will suprise yourself. You have it in you and you will understand everything so much more as you go.
Big John
Big John
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Glad to hear that was the problem. You must have crossed to of the cables. It won't hurt anything but I'd correct it if I was you. Remember when looking at the switch on the cart the A stud is on the bottom. Looking at back of the switch it would be
-C-
B-D
-A-
-C-
B-D
-A-
